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Tangband w5 1138smf enclosure

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  • Tangband w5 1138smf enclosure

    Hi everyone, i already built a enclosure for this subwoofer but the port make to much noise. The design is by paul carmody but i don't live in america so i can't buy the basspipe thats for sale on parts express ( send costs ).

    So now i want to make the same enclosure(volume), but with passive radiators. I want to use 2 Dayton Audio SD175-PR 6-1/2" Passive Radiators and tune the box on f0 = 40hz and f3 = 37hz.

    The box volume(inside) with passive radiators en speaker magnet must be 8 liter max.

    Is this possible? So yes can somebody help me to calculate it because i can't do it with winISD.

    Thanks a lot!!!

  • #2
    Here's what WinISD gave me using 8 L for the net box size and putting 75 grams on each PR. Red is using a port and green is using the two PRs. I don't think you can get any lower using these PRs and limiting yourself to 8 liters. If you need to account for the volume of the PRs and the W5 then the net volume will decrease and f3 will move up a bit more.
    "Everything is nothing without a high sound quality." (Sure Electronics)

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    • #3
      You CAN model a PR box w/WinISD - but you need to use the "alpha" (a.k.a. "Pro") version, NOT the simpler "beta" vers.

      For SOME reason (and sometimes this happens) tuning the box w/PRs doesn't quite achieve the same F3 as a port would.
      You MIGHT be able to get by using a single PR for this build. In that case you'd only add 40g mass to the cone. The Fb and F3 won't be any better than what ern modeled though, but the PR would naturally have to move more.

      You CAN get a lower F3 by increasing the box size a bit.. What was your orig. port's I.D.? A 1.5" id (by 9" long) vent MIGHT be OK if the ends were flared. A 2" port would need to be nearly twice that long. A "slot" port would probably be your best bet here.

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      • #4
        Can you get any sort of PVC pipe where you live? If so, let us know the diameters available, and I can recalculate the length for you.
        Last edited by Paul Carmody; 04-18-2017, 01:56 PM.
        Isn't it about time we started answering rhetorical questions?

        Paul Carmody's DIY Audio Projects
        Twitter: @undefinition1

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Chris Roemer View Post
          You CAN model a PR box w/WinISD - but you need to use the "alpha" (a.k.a. "Pro") version, NOT the simpler "beta" vers.

          For SOME reason (and sometimes this happens) tuning the box w/PRs doesn't quite achieve the same F3 as a port would.
          You MIGHT be able to get by using a single PR for this build. In that case you'd only add 40g mass to the cone. The Fb and F3 won't be any better than what ern modeled though, but the PR would naturally have to move more.

          You CAN get a lower F3 by increasing the box size a bit.. What was your orig. port's I.D.? A 1.5" id (by 9" long) vent MIGHT be OK if the ends were flared. A 2" port would need to be nearly twice that long. A "slot" port would probably be your best bet here.
          I would not recommend a single 6.5" PR with the 1138. My Triumph uses 2 of the 5.25" PRs from Peerless or a single 8" Dayton Audio PR for the Biumph version. I would not go with less Sd on PR.

          Later,
          Wolf
          "Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
          "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
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          "We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith

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          http://techtalk.parts-express.com/blog.php?u=4102

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Paul Carmody View Post
            Can you get any sort of PVC pipe where you live? If so, let us know the diameters available, and I can recalculate the length for you.
            https://loudspeakerfreaks.com/Produc...groep_a_ID=329

            I want to use this tube, maybe i can put a larger piece between it!


            Edit: https://loudspeakerfreaks.com/Produc...oduct_ID=12043

            I can put this between it😃

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            • #7
              We're talking about "home improvement" (or hardware) stores here. MANY guys don't buy "speaker port tubes" for ports, they just go to anywhere a plumber would go (Lowes, Home Depot, ACE or TrueValue hardware) and get one of MANY different diameters of PVC (plastic) pipe (typically in white - for plumbing, but sometimes grey - electrical conduit, and you can even get black - which is most likely then NOT PVC, but ABS - a styrene). Heck, you can even use cardboard (like a heavy mailing tube you might ship paper maps or posters in).

              Tell us specifically what your original port tube was (ID and length) please, the one that made too much noise. (And my guess is that you'd be uncomfortable with a slot port?)

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              • #8
                This 70mm pipe i saw, I think it's to big(2.5 liter).

                I now have a pipe off 45 mm and a length off 32,5 cm wich give me a inside volume of 517 ml. So to me it's the perfect size but i have to found it with flared sides because this heavely chuffing by bass music on high db levels

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                • #9
                  THAT (approx. 1.75" id X 13" long) port SEEMS like it gives your box the correct tuning. Your only real options are to ADD a "roundover" (usually done w/about a 3/8" roundover bit (or larger) in a router - essentially giving you a flared end), go to a larger pipe (which forces it to be longer - to keep the tuning the same), go with PRs (which was your orig. idea), or build a box w/a "slot" port - like you showed in your pic.

                  At "full power" (40w), your vent is moving air near 90 ft/sec (generally WinISD feels "OK" w/velocities under 110 ft/sec). To cut that in half would require a 2.5" id tube that was twice as long. A 2"id port would fall in-between. If your port exit currently has a "sharp" (90*) edge, adding ANY kind of roundover or bevel will help - anything to help smooth that air flow.

                  Unless you're listening to test tones (sine waves), typically the other music is loud enough to "mask" the chuffing noises. Did you try aiming your port exit away from your listening position?

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Chris Roemer View Post
                    THAT (approx. 1.75" id X 13" long) port SEEMS like it gives your box the correct tuning. Your only real options are to ADD a "roundover" (usually done w/about a 3/8" roundover bit (or larger) in a router - essentially giving you a flared end), go to a larger pipe (which forces it to be longer - to keep the tuning the same), go with PRs (which was your orig. idea), or build a box w/a "slot" port - like you showed in your pic.

                    At "full power" (40w), your vent is moving air near 90 ft/sec (generally WinISD feels "OK" w/velocities under 110 ft/sec). To cut that in half would require a 2.5" id tube that was twice as long. A 2"id port would fall in-between. If your port exit currently has a "sharp" (90*) edge, adding ANY kind of roundover or bevel will help - anything to help smooth that air flow.

                    Unless you're listening to test tones (sine waves), typically the other music is loud enough to "mask" the chuffing noises. Did you try aiming your port exit away from your listening position?
                    Yes i have try that. I m now searsing on the internet for a flared port on both sides. The chuffing is real bad with high bass music. I want the best out of it haha so looking for a flared port is a must!

                    Thanks for the info, i will add some information to the post if i"m making progress

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