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  • New Build

    Well after many years. Around 5 years of not speaker building I decided it's time to get back into the game. I just got my parts yesterday. I also orderd omnimic kit, and dats v2.00

    So here is what I have done so far. More pics to come. Very excited. Having to re-learn many things. I didn't have good measuring equipment in the past so I'm hoping that will help. It's a good friday night and saturday project.

    On the cheap diy. That is my motto - www.hifiposse.com

  • #2
    More Pictures. My main goal was to build a nice looking cabinet and do a variant of the overnight sensations. I designed my own cross over. I need to pad the tweeter a bit more, but I ran out of parts. So the cross still needs some tuning. More parts to order.

    so they are finished but could be tweaked. The paint finish is ok, but next time I'm going to do a 2-part mix with a paint gun. I used spray cans this time. Also the tweeter needs to be a bit more recessed.
    Last edited by hobbyhands; 05-09-2017, 07:20 PM.
    On the cheap diy. That is my motto - www.hifiposse.com

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    • #3
      Clean build, any reason you went with the mid over tweeter layout?
      A mains
      The Ventures
      Open Invit8tions
      RSR
      Sound Troopers
      Acorns
      442
      DGBG's
      The Monuments

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      • #4
        What IS your crossover?

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        • #5
          Originally posted by 6thplanet View Post
          Clean build, any reason you went with the mid over tweeter layout?

          I know there are questions as to what sounds better. However I did it mainly for the looks. I kind of like the mid on top. Of course I'm not the first. There have been many reputable companies that have taken this approach. Probably with a more scientific reason in mind.
          On the cheap diy. That is my motto - www.hifiposse.com

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Chris Roemer View Post
            What IS your crossover?

            I minimalistic when it comes to cross overs. I used a 1st order. Crossed at around 3500. Used one inductor for the mid, and about 7.8 cap. Also used a resistor to pad down the tweeter as the sensitivity is higher than the mid.
            On the cheap diy. That is my motto - www.hifiposse.com

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            • #7
              Originally posted by hobbyhands View Post


              I know there are questions as to what sounds better. However I did it mainly for the looks. I kind of like the mid on top. Of course I'm not the first. There have been many reputable companies that have taken this approach. Probably with a more scientific reason in mind.
              ​Mission uses this configuration quite a lot, and yes, there is a scientific reason for it. See this thread for more information - http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...below-mid-bass
              Brian Steele
              www.diysubwoofers.org

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              • #8
                Here's the deal.

                I can understand the attraction for a "minimalist" (1st order) XO. Rarely (but SOMEtimes) they work well, enough.
                This tweeter has almost double its Re impedance at Fs (its resonant freq.). If you'd pad the tweeter using an "L-pad", the shunt element (resistor to gnd) nearly flattens out that Z-peak around 1500 Hz, letting the cap roll the tweeter off the way you'd expect it to. But when you just add series resistance (w/out the shunt) that peak at Fs blocks your cap from rolling the tweeter off. The upper octaves get pushed down, but the output remains stubbornly high down to the 1.5k Fs. If you modeled it, you'd see instead of a nice rolloff curve, the output stays nearly level almost down to Fs, then drops like a cliff.

                When you try to use just a coil to roll off most woofers, it barely has any effect (unless you use a Zobel) due to the driver's impedance rise.
                Compared to the orig. OS XO, your woofer plays at about the same level as Paul's up to around 3kHz, but then Paul's drops -18dB in the next octave (3k-6k), whereas yours is still playing nearly as loud. Even though you wouldn't think so, YOUR woofer is nearly running full-range (which gets really ugly above 5k, due to the metal cone "ringing").

                Most likely both your drivers are playing at about the same volume over the 2 octaves from 1.5k to 6k. It should sound prretty harsh. You REALLY owe it to yourself to try Paul's XO on this one. You won't believe your ears.

                You could use the best (foil?) coils, Mundorf oil caps, and the most exotic resistors that money can buy, but building a proper (Paul's) XO for these drivers, using the crappiest coils, resistors, and npe caps, you'll jump light-years ahead in SQ.

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                • #9
                  I"m not done with the cross over yet. I just didn't have all the XO parts on hand. That being said I'm not displeased with the results. I FR measured the speaker, and it's not horribe looking. Some tweaking for sure though. Thanks for the suggestions. I'll have to look at Pauls XO. I'm certainly not an expert at all so it will be fun to see what he did.
                  Last edited by hobbyhands; 05-09-2017, 07:21 PM.
                  On the cheap diy. That is my motto - www.hifiposse.com

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                  • #10
                    So providing I'm using the parts express omni mic correctly. Here is a FR. I've not found a really good tutorial. Like best room size to be in. I assume the biggest you can if you don't have special chamber to reduce reflections. That is about all I know. I know the dB level are a bit off. One thing I'm not sure off is how to calibrate how loud to make the signals play.


                    Crossvers still in a work in progress. I plan to do a little studying up. Any tips from those of you who measure speakers would be welcome. Especially if you have used omin mic. I'm about 1 meter away doing this. Any good books for newbies on cross-overs?

                    The drivers I'm using are the nd20 dayton, and the 4bn hivi.
                    Attached Files
                    On the cheap diy. That is my motto - www.hifiposse.com

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                    • #11
                      Measure the drivers separately in the box, without x-overs, at a low level. Limit the tweeter measurement to 500 Hz and above. From the FR graph, it looks like you may need to pad the tweeter down a bit as it's running a bit too hot.
                      Brian Steele
                      www.diysubwoofers.org

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