Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Gasket for port tube?

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Gasket for port tube?

    In my first two speaker build I used PVC pipes glued into the box for port tubes. This time around I got an 2 inch adjustable port (260-387) from PE, which has four screws to hold it in. Should I use gasketing tape underneath the flange like I would for the drivers? Or is that not necessary?
    Thanks

    BillyJ.

  • #2
    And while I'm at it.. In which order are the washers and nuts are put on the PE binding posts (091-1245)?

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by crossbound View Post
      In my first two speaker build I used PVC pipes glued into the box for port tubes. This time around I got an 2 inch adjustable port (260-387) from PE, which has four screws to hold it in. Should I use gasketing tape underneath the flange like I would for the drivers? Or is that not necessary?
      Thanks

      BillyJ.

      I generally haven't used gasket tape when mounting plastic port tubes, because it tends to make the plastic warp in the areas next to the screws. I'm fairly confident it hasn't made a significant difference in performance.
      Eric L.

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by brkitup View Post


        I generally haven't used gasket tape when mounting plastic port tubes, because it tends to make the plastic warp in the areas next to the screws. I'm fairly confident it hasn't made a significant difference in performance.
        That was kinda my thinking. Especially since most of the air pressure is released through the port itself

        Comment


        • #5
          if your worried about it why not put a thin line of silicone around the edge that meets the wood before screwing it down.

          Comment


          • #6

            Paul
            Originally posted by Mike E View Post
            if your worried about it why not put a thin line of silicone around the edge that meets the wood before screwing it down.

            Comment


            • #7
              Another option that I like is to rub dish soap on the mounting flange of the port, then use a tiny bead of RTV on the cabinet. The film of dish soap will allow the port to be removed later.

              Never use bathroom caulk for these kinds of jobs.

              Comment


              • #8
                There is a plumbing product called Mortite that is essentially a soft clay-like substance that you can use; it will come right off if you want to remove it later. Any hardware store should have it or something similar. Cheap too.

                Comment


                • #9
                  I do have some plumbers putty somewhere in the house. Could try that.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I'm not a fan of the plumber's putty because of the oil residue. I just add some yellow glue under the inside part of the flange then screw in place. For the binding post I use to do cabinet, nut, tang, lock washer, nut, but the tang moved to much during tightening. Now I'm cabinet, tang, nut, lock washer, nut. It's helpful to solder the wire on to the tang before installing the tang.
                    John H

                    Synergy Horn, SLS-85, BMR-3L, Mini-TL, BR-2, Titan OB, B452, Udique, Vultus, Latus1, Seriatim, Aperivox,Pencil Tower

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by jhollander View Post
                      I'm not a fan of the plumber's putty because of the oil residue. I just add some yellow glue under the inside part of the flange then screw in place. For the binding post I use to do cabinet, nut, tang, lock washer, nut, but the tang moved to much during tightening. Now I'm cabinet, tang, nut, lock washer, nut. It's helpful to solder the wire on to the tang before installing the tang.
                      Good point

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        i don't recall what exact hardware you get with binding posts, but good mechanical practice would be a washer first up against the inside of the cab, soldering tang, another plain washer, then lock washer and nut. Skipping the second plain washer will cause the solder tang to want to spin when you tighten the nut and the internal star locking washer digs into the tang. My opinion as a mechanic.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by crossbound View Post

                          That was kinda my thinking. Especially since most of the air pressure is released through the port itself
                          FYI, that thinking is incorrect. Even though there is air moving in/out of the port, it will be in-phase with the speaker at port tuning and the pressure inside the box is greater than that of a sealed system. Leaks are actually just as much, if not more critical in a vented system than a sealed system, in regards to output. Small leaks will cause reduced output from the port.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Lo-temp hot melt glue anyone?

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by paulbirkeland View Post
                              Another option that I like is to rub dish soap on the mounting flange of the port, then use a tiny bead of RTV on the cabinet. The film of dish soap will allow the port to be removed later.

                              Never use bathroom caulk for these kinds of jobs.
                              What is RTV?

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X