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Gasket for port tube?

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  • #16
    As far as I know it's clear silicone sealant, like I use, and what I think Mike E was recommending.
    Paul

    Originally posted by crossbound View Post

    What is RTV?

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    • #17
      Room Temperature Vulcanization silcone. Comes in clear and different colors, and several hardnesses. I use the blue RTV all the time on water pump gaskets, valve covers, around the water passages between the heads and intake manifold, etc.
      Expensive caps need time to break in. More expensive caps take a long time. Cheap caps sound great right out of the box.

      Why I don't spray in first gear: http://s1138.photobucket.com/albums/...t=100_2585.mp4

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      • #18
        Great, I found RTV silicone at the auto parts store. Thank you for the help!

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        • #19
          I go to either Home Depot or Lowes and buy tubes of clear silicone sealant, using it to attach crossover components to their baseboards (except for really heavy or large components which need strapping or screws), as well as to seal the mounting flanges of port tubes.
          Paul

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          • #20
            Originally posted by jhollander View Post
            I'm not a fan of the plumber's putty because of the oil residue. I just add some yellow glue under the inside part of the flange then screw in place. For the binding post I use to do cabinet, nut, tang, lock washer, nut, but the tang moved to much during tightening. Now I'm cabinet, tang, nut, lock washer, nut. It's helpful to solder the wire on to the tang before installing the tang.

            I've never had a problem with it being oily. In any event, the wood is usually already finished, and this is behind the flange where it is not visible, so I don't think its much of a problem. But I wouldn't likely be doing this on a port tube at all.

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            • #21
              RTV is automotive silicone.

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              • #22
                Another option is to apply speaker gasket foam tape to the inside of the port opening on the cabinet, but a little higher than the cabinet, like 1/8" or so. That way there is only the side thickness of the gasket tape to 'compress' as you screw it down and it won't deform that way.

                PE's speaker gasket flexible caulk is good for that as well: https://www.parts-express.com/parts-...2-pcs--260-400

                ...once you 'compress' it it stays pretty much compressed and won't try to push out on the plastic port flange. It's good for all kinds of other stuff as well. Shoving in holes with speaker wire to seal up a cabinet, etc. That's the stuff that used to come in a "woofer mounting kit" free with every PE woofer from days of yore.

                TomZ
                *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
                *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF *Cello's Speaker Project Page

                *Building the "Micro-B 2.1 Plate Amplifier -- Part 1 * Part 2 * Part 3 * Part 4 * * Part 5 'Review' * -- Assembly Instructions PDF

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