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Crossover help, kind of a long shot

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  • Crossover help, kind of a long shot

    So a friend has dropped off a pair of speakers for me to have a look at. They were commercially available some time ago, and the prior owner decided he knew more than the manufacturer, so he tore the crossovers out and did a bunch of other strange modifications to the speakers. They are Nomad Audio Ronin 1.0SC's.

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    Each speaker has an ~8" Seas coax driver, a ~10" woofer, and a small rear firing ribbon tweeter (looks like a little round Aurum Cantus). The woofers are Dayton RSS65HF4, at least that's what's in the cardboard boxes accompanying this particular pair. I could be easily convinced that the ribbon tweeter was added by the owner, since it is rotated 90 degrees which seems extremely peculiar, and I don't see it on any of the other models. I plan to just cross it over pretty high and pad it down so its mostly out the equation.

    Since there is nothing left of the stock crossover, I would like to put something together to at least make them playable. I seem to remember that Seas has been pretty good about publishing recommended crossovers for their drivers, but I don't see anything in their vintage coax section that's nearly as large as this driver. Does anyone have any hints as to the model number for this Seas coax driver? Or is this not a Seas driver but something else from another manufacturer?

    I have the necessary hardware to measure all this out and work up a crossover, but I'd rather start with the factory recommend crossover and just work at it from there.

  • #2
    Here are some photos of the coax driver. Looking around online, it looks like there was a separate version with the magnesium coax, and the woofer does appear to be the Dayton on that model as well.

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    • #3
      I don't see a tweeter in that "coax"

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      • #4
        http://www.6moons.com/audioreviews/nomad/rpd.html
        Maybe contact Paul Hilgeman. I believe he lives in Chicago.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Dwight View Post
          I don't see a tweeter in that "coax"
          Yeah, so there's one very broken tweeter and one replacement tweeter. I think the PO saw the Seas "king" coax copper ring and wanted to build that into his, so he went out and bought some copper pipe and hand filed it to fit under one of the tweeters.

          I'm ordering up a second replacement tweeter tomorrow.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by howard View Post
            http://www.6moons.com/audioreviews/nomad/rpd.html
            Maybe contact Paul Hilgeman. I believe he lives in Chicago.
            Yeah, I haven't been able to find much in the way of contact info. I'm sure he'd be super bummed to see how butchered these are.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by paulbirkeland View Post

              Yeah, I haven't been able to find much in the way of contact info. I'm sure he'd be super bummed to see how butchered these are.
              I have to admit, those are some pretty awful things to do to a pair of speakers, especially ones that were probably pretty great in the first place.
              Eric L.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by paulbirkeland
                Yeah, I haven't been able to find much in the way of contact info. I'm sure he'd be super bummed to see how butchered these are.
                Matching name & numbers here and there http://www.enjoythemusic.com/magazin...o_sentinel.htm http://ahyaa.org/App/GetRoster/list/...&org=AHYAA.ORG - via phone

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                • #9
                  Paul modified the woofer to make a coincident driver.

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                  • #10
                    Well, it looks like no dice on getting in touch with the designer. So this looks like a Seas W22EX without the rubber magnet boot and no phase plug, then an H1162 is added in the center and the 10" Dayton down low.

                    That tweeter really doesn't look to be too capable of being crossed down low, and that woofer has a gnarly resonance at about 4.8K. I'm thinking about a parallel notch filter with no resistor to give a very deep cut, then let the driver just roll off on its own (about a 4.7uF cap and .22mH coil paralleled in series with the woofer). With that in place, I believe I can use the tweeter filter for the Loki, then adjust the rolloff of the woofer and attenuate the tweeter as needed.

                    Crossing over between the subwoofer and woofer would likely require me to do some THD measurements on the woofer on the open baffle to see where it starts to struggle?

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