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  • Project #3: (Insert Name Here)

    Since we can now post pictures of Design Team projects as we go, I'll put these beginning pics of my third and final project up along with one of my design sketches to show what it should look like when finished:







    Nothing too complicated, a few angles here and there. I have a few minor decisions to make still on the aesthetics of the front stripe and how it interacts with the opening angle at the bottom, but I'm 99% there.

    After spending an hour getting all these angles dialed in I remember why I like to design speakers with curves so much... angles have to be perfect, curved panels just have to be able to bend to whatever shape you want without breaking! Kudos to you guys who get all "Angle'y" That's too much math for me.

    Anyway, This will use the new smaller Esoteric drivers and the RS silk tweeter. It should have an F3 of around 32 Hz and be able to play fairly cleanly while doing so. I'm hoping this is an exceptional sounding speaker when finished. I'm not sure on veneer yet, but I'm leaning to either a birds-eye type of veneer on the cabinet or possibly even ebony, then a stained black wood/veneer combo on the front black accent piece.

    I was originally going to try for a slot vent exiting out of the rear between the box and the base, but after my last project and the issues I had with that, I'm sticking with a good old fashioned precision port low on the rear.

    My decision to use the esoteric series of drivers (way above my normal price point) is the fact that I heard Dan Neubeckers speakers in Indiana last month, and was blown away by the clean bass response of a single ES180 each. It was magic. I'm hoping to get close to that effect with a pair of the smaller ES140's as I wanted to keep the cabinet as narrow as possible for a higher Wife Acceptance Factor; although my wife loves speakers as much as I do somehow... I got lucky there!

    I'm planning on 8-10 side to side braces (1/2" dowel and 1/2" MDF discs) and a vertical piece of hardwood in the middle of the back, and part of the front panels. I also plan to use part of the base as cabinet volume. Everything looks very promising on paper.

    Also, if anyone has any ideas on what to call these I'm all ears. My working name is "The ES-3's" for "Esoteric, Project #3" but that just plain sucks, I know.

    More to come...

    TomZ
    *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
    *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF *Cello's Speaker Project Page

    *Building the "Micro-B 2.1 Plate Amplifier -- Part 1 * Part 2 * Part 3 * Part 4 * * Part 5 'Review' * -- Assembly Instructions PDF

  • #2
    Those look great, Tom. Actually, I was just wondering how much we were able to post about projects without prior approval. It looks like anything goes, so I'll be posting my second project soon.

    Looking forward to seeing your progress on these.
    Eric L.

    Comment


    • #3
      Looking forwars to seeing how these turn out! Already look killer!
      .

      Comment


      • #4
        These are going to be awesome! First off, I don't think there's a sexier driver made and second, your cabinet design should make em even sexier. Yes, I drool every time I see the Esoteric drivers.

        Nice sketch work Tom, I've never been real good at freehand sketches. I like the name, simple and easy to remember. Since you are undecided on the veneer, have you considered Wenge? It is a dark wood but can be striking. Here's a link to a composite sheet which should be very uniform: http://blowoutveneer.com/wp/product/...exotic-cal-22/
        And here's a picture of some with a lacquer finish.

        Click image for larger version

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        My "No-Name" CC Speaker
        Kerry's "Silverbacks"
        Ben's Synchaeta's for Mom
        The Archers
        Rick's "db" Desktop CBT Arrays
        The Gandalf's

        Comment


        • #5
          Of note for Wenge (wen-gay)- I've read its dust can be a big irritant, both on skin and in lungs.

          Tommy- what tweeter? Edit- Nevermind, I found you did mention it.

          Later,
          Wolf
          "Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
          "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
          "He is a true ambassador for this forum and speaker DIY in general." -Ed Froste
          "We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith

          *InDIYana event website*

          Photobucket pages:
          http://photobucket.com/Wolf-Speakers_and_more

          My blog/writeups/thoughts here at PE:
          http://techtalk.parts-express.com/blog.php?u=4102

          Comment


          • #6
            Thanks for the positive comments. I made a cardboard full size mock up to make sure it still looked good in real life. Sometimes sketches look goofy when mocked up!

            I love that wood! Darkens up nice with some finish on it but you can still see the grain, that's nice! So it's pronounced Wen-gay like ben-gay? I didn't know that.

            That looks to be maybe a bit dark for the main cabinet. I want enough contrast between the cabinet and the center stripe to stand out. Maybe I could use some for the stripe? It's gorgeous, though. I love how the shine brings out the beauty... putting that first few coats on a project is just exciting! Come to think of it, I have a small bundle of something similar I picked up for another project. I have to organize my veneers a bit, I'm loosing track.

            The cool thing with sketching freehand is that the drawing evolves because of inconsistencies in perspective and other variations. Sometimes what looks like a 'mistake' in the drawing makes me take the design in another direction. Random, free-hand sketching is how almost all of my speaker designs come to be.

            My choice of tweeter is somewhat based on necessity... I already have a pair of the RS silk tweeters and this project is WAY over PE's allotted budget per project. I think they have a good change of sounding good together, though. They are both excellent drivers.
            I'll know soon enough!

            TomZ
            *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
            *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF *Cello's Speaker Project Page

            *Building the "Micro-B 2.1 Plate Amplifier -- Part 1 * Part 2 * Part 3 * Part 4 * * Part 5 'Review' * -- Assembly Instructions PDF

            Comment


            • #7
              How about 'Svellere'? Svelte is past participle for svellere. Slender, refined, delicate are synonyms. Should be apt adjectives if you ask me.

              Later,
              Wolf
              "Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
              "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
              "He is a true ambassador for this forum and speaker DIY in general." -Ed Froste
              "We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith

              *InDIYana event website*

              Photobucket pages:
              http://photobucket.com/Wolf-Speakers_and_more

              My blog/writeups/thoughts here at PE:
              http://techtalk.parts-express.com/blog.php?u=4102

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Wolf View Post
                Of note for Wenge (wen-gay)- I've read its dust can be a big irritant, both on skin and in lungs.

                Later,
                Wolf
                +1

                The wood database lists wenge as: 'irritant, sensitizer, splinters go septic, nervous system effects, abdominal cramps" with a potency of 3 stars out of four. It's not as toxic as the exotic woods with the skull and crossbones symbols, and not as potent as the rosewoods, but I would try a test cut and see if you have a skin or breathing response. Then use a mask and longsleeves as a general precaution, especially while sanding. I saw a friend at work after he cut some rosewood, and it wasn't pretty--puffy blistered skin all along his arms, blotches on his face and a trip to ER for breathing issues.
                Free Passive Speaker Designer Lite (PSD-Lite) -- http://www.audiodevelopers.com/Softw...Lite/setup.exe

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Wolf View Post
                  Of note for Wenge (wen-gay)- I've read its dust can be a big irritant, both on skin and in lungs.

                  Later,
                  Wolf
                  Originally posted by neildavis View Post

                  +1

                  The wood database lists wenge as: 'irritant, sensitizer, splinters go septic, nervous system effects, abdominal cramps" with a potency of 3 stars out of four. It's not as toxic as the exotic woods with the skull and crossbones symbols, and not as potent as the rosewoods, but I would try a test cut and see if you have a skin or breathing response. Then use a mask and longsleeves as a general precaution, especially while sanding. I saw a friend at work after he cut some rosewood, and it wasn't pretty--puffy blistered skin all along his arms, blotches on his face and a trip to ER for breathing issues.
                  Appreciate you guys sharing your insights on the Wenge. Never heard of this before but admit I haven't done any research. Had a really bad reaction to Mahogany dust in the past so would imagine this stuff would be like that or worse for me. Good to know, will take appropriate precautions if I decide to use it in the future.

                  My "No-Name" CC Speaker
                  Kerry's "Silverbacks"
                  Ben's Synchaeta's for Mom
                  The Archers
                  Rick's "db" Desktop CBT Arrays
                  The Gandalf's

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Got a little more work done on these this week.



                    I need to get some 1/2" hardwood dowels to complete my barbell bracing system.

                    What do you think of this idea?

                    I haven't used this method before, but the idea is to drill a hole in the 2.25" x 2.25" pieces of 1/2" MDF and let the dowel float during assembly... using the Gorilla Glue to expand and create a tight joint. There isn't much 'wiggle' room for the dowel, but rather than try and make it 'tight' and possibly create a bowing situation on the side, I thought this may just do the trick.

                    I thought the small square of MDF would spread out the vibration-deadening over a slightly larger area, but mostly -- make it easier to assemble.

                    I had planned on making a removable panel on the bottom to mount the crossover on, and I will need to do so, because the inside piece of the 'Precision Port' I'm using won't fit through the woofer openings. I'm thinking also that I need to engineer a mounting system for the precision port now before closing the cabinet up. it looks to be a bit too heavy/bulky to just glue up and leave loose in the cabinet. I've never used a port like this before.

                    And thanks for the name suggestion Wolf. I appreciate the thought.

                    I may just end up keeping the ES-3 name... embracing my boring naming conventions.
                    Thank goodness Parts Express has model names in addition to part numbers or else these might just end up being called the 295-396's

                    TomZ


                    *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
                    *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF *Cello's Speaker Project Page

                    *Building the "Micro-B 2.1 Plate Amplifier -- Part 1 * Part 2 * Part 3 * Part 4 * * Part 5 'Review' * -- Assembly Instructions PDF

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I like to glue the rectangular braces on the edge of the blocks post side glue up. That way I get a tight fit, make sure the panels are flat (without a middle dip) and the braces have more glue surface. You can als use the braces to support your port or hold back the insulation.
                      John H

                      SLS-85, BMR-3L, Mini-TL, BR-2, Titan OB, B452, Udique, Vultus, Latus1, Seriatim, Aperivox,Pencil Tower

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by jhollander View Post
                        I like to glue the rectangular braces on the edge of the blocks post side glue up. That way I get a tight fit, make sure the panels are flat (without a middle dip) and the braces have more glue surface. You can als use the braces to support your port or hold back the insulation.
                        So you're talking about putting the bracing in after the other side is glued-on? I often do that as it tends to create a bit of tension on the cabinet, but due to the small driver openings and limited space inside, I thought I'd try a different approach. I may end up using some 'cauls' to create some pressure on the sides of the cabinet when I glue it up to help things stay 'stressed' and in tension.

                        TomZ
                        *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
                        *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF *Cello's Speaker Project Page

                        *Building the "Micro-B 2.1 Plate Amplifier -- Part 1 * Part 2 * Part 3 * Part 4 * * Part 5 'Review' * -- Assembly Instructions PDF

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          On second thought a nice long center divider could make this a nice MLTL
                          John H

                          SLS-85, BMR-3L, Mini-TL, BR-2, Titan OB, B452, Udique, Vultus, Latus1, Seriatim, Aperivox,Pencil Tower

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Wow, I'm a bit behind on these. Got a little more work done over the past few weeks, though, and the veneer is in!



                            I made the braces up and glued them together first so they were rigid, then glued them to the one side before gluing on the other side.

                            ___________________________

                            A few weeks ago I routed and sanded these up but good. I had to use the belt sander and my sanding board to get these even. I have flat seams now, and I've let them sit for a few weeks.

                            I applied a 1/8" hardboard panel to the front bottom angle and the top to mitigate the joints showing up.







                            Once I clean those pieces up, I'm going to apply a piece to the fronts of these as well. The back I'll just re-sand right before I apply veneer and hope for the best.

                            I really hope this keeps the dreaded joint issue at bay because I've got some really nice veneer going on these:



                            That's a few sheets of paper-backed Bubinga there. Yeah, this is by far my most expensive speaker build to date. The speaker budget is blown and it's only June... I'm currently considering giving blood weekly to generate some additional income to spend at the tent sale.

                            I'm really hoping that these come out nice. I'll be off for a stretch in 4 more days so I can really crack down and get some stuff done in a hurry.

                            Should be more updates soon I hope.

                            Thanks for looking,
                            TomZ



                            *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
                            *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF *Cello's Speaker Project Page

                            *Building the "Micro-B 2.1 Plate Amplifier -- Part 1 * Part 2 * Part 3 * Part 4 * * Part 5 'Review' * -- Assembly Instructions PDF

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Tom is that Bubinga Burl veneer.

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