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  • Subwoofer upgrade

    Hi guys, I built couple years ago a subwoofer using Dayton parts:
    - Dayton Audio RSS390HO-4 15" Reference HO Subwoofer 4 Ohm
    - 2cu Cabinet sealed
    - Dayton Audio SPA1000 1000W Subwoofer Plate Amplifier

    This thing is amazing but still, I would like to upgrade but unsure if switching the driver would make a huge difference? I looked at the RE Audio XXX15-v2-2 15" Cast Frame DVC Subwoofer Driver 2+2 but it doesn't seem to fit the 15.29" hole I have in the cabinet.

    Any recommendations? I tried multiple times the software WinISD etc but this is simply not for me. THanks again!

  • #2
    imaya -

    I'm not a sub expert, but I've built a few and simmed a few more.
    WinISD can be a bit frustrating - you might try Unibox (requires Excel) for modeling.
    As far as I'm concerned, the PE Ultimax subs are the logical upgrade for what you have now.


    Many, many people suggest 2 subs to even out the room response.

    Have fun!
    Dayton Audio UM15-22 15" Ultimax DVC Subwoofer 2 ohms Per Coil

    I think I hear a difference - wow, it's amazing!" Ethan Winer: audio myths
    "As God is my witness I'll never be without a good pair of speakers!" Scarlett O'Hara

    High value, high quality RS150/TB28-537SH bookshelf - TARGAS NLA!
    SB13/Vifa BC25SC06 MTM DCR Galeons-SB13-MTM
    My Voxel min sub Yet-another-Voxel-build

    Tangband W6-sub

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    • #3
      Originally posted by imaya View Post
      Hi guys, I built couple years ago a subwoofer using Dayton parts:
      - Dayton Audio RSS390HO-4 15" Reference HO Subwoofer 4 Ohm
      - 2cu Cabinet sealed
      - Dayton Audio SPA1000 1000W Subwoofer Plate Amplifier

      This thing is amazing but still, I would like to upgrade but unsure if switching the driver would make a huge difference? I looked at the RE Audio XXX15-v2-2 15" Cast Frame DVC Subwoofer Driver 2+2 but it doesn't seem to fit the 15.29" hole I have in the cabinet.

      Any recommendations? I tried multiple times the software WinISD etc but this is simply not for me. THanks again!
      ​The best and easiest upgrade would likely be to just build another ones of those, which will increase output and provide more flexibility wrt placement. Switching the driver is likely not going to a make as HUGE a difference.
      Brian Steele
      www.diysubwoofers.org

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      • #4
        Thanks guys, I will then build another one. I want something to compete with the SVS PB16-Ultra... I know I'm aiming at a really high target but why not!!

        I'm still browsing projects but please let me know if you have any builds that can try to match the SVS, let me know. Thanks again!

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        • #5
          Where would you like to see the improvement? I.e., are you looking for more output? Something that plays deeper? Have you considered using your same amp and driver in a different enclosure? That 15" HO might really "wake up" if you give it a bit more space and vent (or PR) it.

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          • #6
            Second the ultimax recommendation and many watts to go toe to toe with the Ultra - 16.

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            • #7
              Do a pair of Ultimax 18's.
              Being defeated is often a temporary condition. Giving up is what makes it permanent.

              The Merlots
              Scanspeak R2904/7000's,
              Scanspeak 15M/4531K00's, Dayton RSS265HF-4's,
              MiniDSP 2x8, class D amplification

              Sennheiser HD650's

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