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Tangband w6-1139sif don't go deep on loud volume

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  • #16
    Originally posted by Scarface1 View Post

    Thanks for the info, I want to buy a 3 inch port but there aren't elbows I can find.

    You could use a shelf vent instead. Click image for larger version

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    Brian Steele
    www.diysubwoofers.org

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    • #17
      Originally posted by 1100xxben View Post
      What amp are you driving it with? Is it possible you're maxing out your amplifier?
      This ^ ^ ^, What is the rated power output of your amplifier that you're using to drive your subwoofer? What is the brand/model ?
      Brian Steele
      www.diysubwoofers.org

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      • #18
        Originally posted by Chris Roemer View Post
        Your box and port (and port position) all seem to be well within the range of what's considered "normal" for this driver. It can take its rated 50w RMS down to near 30Hz beforre hitting Xmax, with a port velocity maxxing out around Mach 0.08, which WinISD seems "OK" with. Can you run some freq. tests to further help w/diagnosis (I'd suggest 60, 50, 40, 30, 25, and 20Hz)?
        That driver is a strange beast. It's only rated at 50W, but the HornResp sim of the alignment used here suggests it can take 200W in the passband without exceeding Xmax. Particle velocity at the port is still a little high at 50W, but shouldn't cause the noticeable change in bass response that's being experienced here.
        Click image for larger version

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        Brian Steele
        www.diysubwoofers.org

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        • #19
          Originally posted by Brian Steele View Post

          That driver is a strange beast. It's only rated at 50W, but the HornResp sim of the alignment used here suggests it can take 200W in the passband without exceeding Xmax. Particle velocity at the port is still a little high at 50W, but shouldn't cause the noticeable change in bass response that's being experienced here.
          I get similar results in WinISD. This is a rarer case when the driver can take full rated power without exceeding Xmax. And since rated power is based on a sine wave it can easily take a 100W rated amp playing music (music is never as power dense as a sine wave - maybe half to one third IMO).

          So Brian's question on the amp is well founded (Make and Model).

          Another thought. What is the enclosure's construction (panel/baffle thickness, internal bracing, corners sealed ???).

          Lastly, you can always use two 2" Schedule 40 PVC ports. Those parts are readily available at the big box HW stores. And HD has 3" grey PVC and ellows in the electrical section though the elbows have a much greater radius than the pluming versions. But before you change ports, Let's have a look at the amp and the box.



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          • #20
            I used 12mm mdf and brace the forward and back with 4 cilinder that are 2 cm thick.

            Now I use a 2 inch precision port and have to say that most music can pretty loud without chuffing but I will buy a 3 inch flared port with elbows.

            I power the amp ( tpa3116d2 2.1) with a laptop power supply that is 19V and 4A. Maybe it can't handle the bass but I have to say that 19 x 4 = 56 watt, so it must go pretty loud. On half the volume on my phone the sub begin to rattle and distorting hard.

            Maybe it is the laptop power supply (I already test 2 laptop power supply with the same results)???

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            • #21
              Is your phone the source? That could be part of the issue.
              Wolf
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              • #22
                Originally posted by Wolf View Post
                Is your phone the source? That could be part of the issue.
                Wolf
                Yes but I don't hope it is because of my phone, because it's a new phone. Tomorrow I will try a different phone..

                Thanks wolf

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by Scarface1 View Post
                  I power the amp ( tpa3116d2 2.1) with a laptop power supply that is 19V and 4A. Maybe it can't handle the bass but I have to say that 19 x 4 = 56 watt, so it must go pretty loud. On half the volume on my phone the sub begin to rattle and distorting hard.
                  That could very well be your problem. Your power supply may be able to deliver 76 Watts (19V x 4A), but that is only what it is capable of supplying. In reality (assuming the amp is configured as BTL output), you will have just under 19V peak available, which means ~13 VRMS of clean output, with sinusoidal signals. That's only 42 Watts into a 4-ohm driver. I'm guessing your amplifier is running out of voltage as you crank it up and sounds like you're hitting a limiter. That would also result in an increase in distortion.

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by 1100xxben View Post

                    That could very well be your problem. Your power supply may be able to deliver 76 Watts (19V x 4A), but that is only what it is capable of supplying. In reality (assuming the amp is configured as BTL output), you will have just under 19V peak available, which means ~13 VRMS of clean output, with sinusoidal signals. That's only 42 Watts into a 4-ohm driver. I'm guessing your amplifier is running out of voltage as you crank it up and sounds like you're hitting a limiter. That would also result in an increase in distortion.
                    I convert the 19v to 25v. Today I have tried another phone but it do the same. I'm going to buy a better power supply, bigger port and set the sub from 150hz low pass to 120hz low pass!

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by 1100xxben View Post

                      That could very well be your problem. Your power supply may be able to deliver 76 Watts (19V x 4A), but that is only what it is capable of supplying. In reality (assuming the amp is configured as BTL output), you will have just under 19V peak available, which means ~13 VRMS of clean output, with sinusoidal signals. That's only 42 Watts into a 4-ohm driver. I'm guessing your amplifier is running out of voltage as you crank it up and sounds like you're hitting a limiter. That would also result in an increase in distortion.

                      The two outputs of the TPA3116 are BTL mode by default. So your assumption and analysis is correct. A TPA3116 2.1 amp will have two amp chips, one for LR in the default BTL mode and 1 chip in PBTL using both channels to power the sub. At 19 V the chip in PBTL mode is able to handle that load quite easily.

                      And since it's a 2.1 amp, is it also being used to drive the L-R speakers? What impedance? How many watts/amps are being used for L-R in addition to the sub.

                      The thing that puzzles me is the laptop PS. Most all are switch mode PS and when they exceed their current rating, they go into protection mode rather than voltage sag (ala a transformer based PS). I've experienced that with heavy bass notes, the PS goes into protect mode and stops supplying juice for a sec. and the music cuts out until the PS resets itself.

                      Some things I would try are extra bypass caps across the amp's PS input to handle amp peaks (35V caps in the 2400 uf to 6600 uf range or parallel caps to achieve similar ufs).

                      Two car batteries in series is test that will eliminate any PS issues (I have two 12V 18aH SLAs on hand for that purpose).

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                      • #26
                        Maybe I'm hoping to much on good results. Today I have place the speaker in another room and it sound a lot better, I also place the port a bit further from the inside wall of the enclosure.

                        I also play up to 150hz to the speaker so maybe it's to high for the sub or and maybe the sub needs to played in.

                        Maybe it's because off me but "I can't listen to it" because it's sound if I overpower the speaker but it only reached half off the Xmax!

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                        • #27
                          I have desided that I want a low pass filter on the sub from 120hz and some internal bracing. Does anyone know what filter to use with flat response from 120 hz( 110hz can also) to 30 hz

                          Thanks a lot

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by Scarface1 View Post
                            I have desided that I want a low pass filter on the sub from 120hz and some internal bracing. Does anyone know what filter to use with flat response from 120 hz( 110hz can also) to 30 hz

                            Thanks a lot
                            Using a passive LP on the sub will require large components at that low freq. Most all subs have their low pass implemented in active electronics.

                            What 2.1 board are you using (picture, etc.). The ".1" channel should have a LP filter built in. I've reverse engineered a few of these boards and have replaced two small box caps to achieve the exact LP filter I needed.

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by Scarface1 View Post
                              I also place the port a bit further from the inside wall of the enclosure.
                              ​Hmm... how close was the opening of the port to the inside wall? That can affect its performance as well.
                              Brian Steele
                              www.diysubwoofers.org

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by Brian Steele View Post

                                ​Hmm... how close was the opening of the port to the inside wall? That can affect its performance as well.
                                6 cm I think

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