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  • #16
    Wogg, Like Wolf said you likely raised the grain. But I have had similar experience with that product. I think you will need to coat it with enough poly to make it so that you can sand it smooth. For that a foam brush will work fine. I typically do the final few coats with wipe on poly.

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    • #17
      I suspect many of the bumps are caused by bubbles trapped in the thick finish.

      My take is

      Stir the finish to minimize bubbles vs shaking.

      The correct brush can make a difference, test first..

      Try to "lay" the finish down in one pass( I know - easier said than done) ,don't overwork it, as it can introduce bubbles.

      There are synthetic sanding pads that are substitutes for steel wool, which besides smoothing a finish can also be used to adjust the sheen on some finishes.

      White pads replace #0000 steel wool for fine smoothing,
      Gray pads replace #000,
      Maroon replace #00
      Green replace #0

      woodcraft etc carries them



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      • #18
        Thanks guys... I suspect I did both: raise the grain and add some bubbles from the foam brush and overworking. There was a moment in the woofer recess that I compressed the brush a bit and it foamed up. I'll look for the sanding pads / steel wool this week and give it another go when I can (more carefully and with a natural bristle brush this time).

        I intend to re-do our dining room table soon with similar product, this is like my mini test run for that big project. Plus, these little speakers need to look awesome
        Electronics engineer, woofer enthusiast, and musician.
        Wogg Music

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        • #19
          http://www.finewoodworking.com/2008/...-blotchy-stain

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          • #20
            Wogg, I was surprised to hear you did not like the Minwax Polyshades because its my goto when I need to change the shade and it seems to work really
            ​well on poplar. My suggestion is to stain 1 or 2 coats depending on color then apply the polyshades to desired color, scuffing between coats with .maroon
            ​scothbrite pads. If is dark enough but needs more topcoat just use clear minwax poly. I spray it but you should have no problem getting great results. It
            does not dry very quick so figure a day per coat.

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            • #21
              Hmmm. Interesting to listen to this conversation, since I'm not too good at this stuff.

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              • #22
                Originally posted by Squidspeak View Post
                Wogg, I was surprised to hear you did not like the Minwax Polyshades because its my goto when I need to change the shade and it seems to work really ​well on poplar. My suggestion is to stain 1 or 2 coats depending on color then apply the polyshades to desired color, scuffing between coats with .maroon ​scothbrite pads. If is dark enough but needs more topcoat just use clear minwax poly. I spray it but you should have no problem getting great results. It does not dry very quick so figure a day per coat.
                I like the product, the color is nice. I think I messed up the application sadly. No real harm though, just more time and elbow grease. Haven't heard of the maroon scotchbrite pads for use.

                So what's the best smoothing option:
                • steel wool 000 or 0000
                • sandpaper 220 or more grit
                • abrasive pads?
                ​Edit: Tapatalk doesn't format properly and I'm seriously hoping for a little input on the smoothing options
                Last edited by wogg; 09-06-2017, 05:05 PM.
                Electronics engineer, woofer enthusiast, and musician.
                Wogg Music

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by mlau View Post
                  Hmmm. Interesting to listen to this conversation, since I'm not too good at this stuff.
                  Me neither apparently ;) The worst part is that every step is a new trip to the hardware store. I feel like I need 1 ounce each of 30 different ingredients and they only sell them in gallons. Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
                  Electronics engineer, woofer enthusiast, and musician.
                  Wogg Music

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                  • #24
                    Next phase... I hit them with 000 steel wool to clean that texture off. Rub the hell out of it, shop vac the wool debris, and wipe them down with a lightly damp paper towel to get the rest of the debris off. It went down to the raw stained wood a bit, leaving a potentially cool distressed furniture look. At this point I decided to hit them with the ebony stain again, real light coat with the cheesecloth. After this I'll coat them with clear satin polyurethane, using a proper brush designed for poly.

                    Click image for larger version

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                    Electronics engineer, woofer enthusiast, and musician.
                    Wogg Music

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                    • #25
                      That's starting to come together - nice job working the kinks out!

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by scottvalentin View Post
                        That's starting to come together - nice job working the kinks out!
                        Thanks Scott!

                        With 1 coat of semi gloss poly drying, these are starting to look good! A few more hours and I'll sand lightly to flatten and add a second coat.

                        Click image for larger version

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                        Electronics engineer, woofer enthusiast, and musician.
                        Wogg Music

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                        • #27
                          Worth the effort; those are looking nice! A learning experience, that's what it is! A lesson learned is worth twenty told...

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                          • #28
                            Correction... they were looking great until I went to prep them for another coat last night and f$^%^$ them up. This time, I read the directions which stated "lightly sand with fine grit (220) sandpaper before applying second coat". So I did. Now either I don't know when to quit, or I don't know my own strength. Either way I sanded right through the finish and left the wood inconsistently colored. At which point I was pissed, and had to decide to either take it all off, touch up the stain, and apply clear poly again... or hit them with the mahogany polyshades in order to color back in the light spots. I went with polyshades, which did end up better than my first attempt, but I still don't like it. The grain is too weak, and the sheen still isn't as smooth as I want.

                            Sigh... I'll be taking this off with steel wool again and re-doing for the 3rd time. This time if I get it looking as good as it did in that picture I'm stopping. It's a good thing you can essentially re-finish wood as often as you have the time and patience.
                            Electronics engineer, woofer enthusiast, and musician.
                            Wogg Music

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                            • #29
                              IMO, 220g is way too coarse at this stage. 400g would have been better. I think you just used the wrong paper for the job.
                              Later,
                              Wolf
                              "Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
                              "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
                              "He is a true ambassador for this forum and speaker DIY in general." -Ed Froste
                              "We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith

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                              My blog/writeups/thoughts here at PE:
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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by Wolf View Post
                                IMO, 220g is way too coarse at this stage. 400g would have been better. I think you just used the wrong paper for the job. Later, Wolf
                                Yes sir, I believe you're right. After not following directions I thought I'd try what they said this time, which was literally 220g. Live and learn I suppose. Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
                                Electronics engineer, woofer enthusiast, and musician.
                                Wogg Music

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