Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Thurston 3-ways Build Thread XT25-30 Peerless 5" TB W6-1139SIF

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    3/4" bushing maybe?? I think a half-inch top-bearing pattern for the second pass would do the same thing.

    EDIT: nope- it wouldn't...
    Wolf
    "Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
    "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
    "He is a true ambassador for this forum and speaker DIY in general." -Ed Froste
    "We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith

    *InDIYana event website*

    Photobucket pages:
    http://photobucket.com/Wolf-Speakers_and_more

    My blog/writeups/thoughts here at PE:
    http://techtalk.parts-express.com/blog.php?u=4102

    Comment


    • #17
      Originally posted by skatz View Post
      Javad Love your documentation, but it raises a question. In the photo you mention a 3/4" pattern bit, but it looks like a 1/4" spiral, can you clarify?
      Correct 3/4" pattern bushing (see pics) with the 1/4" bit. The second to last template is 1/2" oversized (diameter), 3/4"-1/4"=1/2" to give you the back to original driver shape, as you need to make a pattern 1/4" smaller on each side (radius). Lemme know if you need further clarification.
      --
      Javad Shadzi
      Bay Area, CA

      2-Channel Stereo system in the works with Adcom components and 4-way towers

      Comment


      • #18
        Originally posted by JavadS View Post
        Thanks Kevin! Did you see the Microfarads V2 build? A full range driver even!
        Sorry man, I completely missed those, I stand corrected. They turned out fantastic looking! Keep up the great work!
        My "No-Name" CC Speaker
        Kerry's "Silverbacks"
        Ben's Synchaeta's for Mom
        The Archers
        Rick's "db" Desktop CBT Arrays
        The Gandalf's

        Comment


        • #19
          I love your builds Javad, this is no exception. That router trick is slick. I'm ill equipped to follow along without some new bit investments, but I'll have to come back to that some day. Currently I limit my driver choices to only those I can recess with a circle jig

          How's the sensitivity on these things going to end up? Presumably you'll have to pad the system down to match up with the ~83dB woofer right? This is the polar opposite of your high sensitivity pro / horn setups.
          Electronics engineer, woofer enthusiast, and musician.
          Wogg Music

          Comment


          • #20
            Your countersinking skills make me weep with envy.

            Comment


            • #21
              Originally posted by wogg View Post
              I love your builds Javad, this is no exception. That router trick is slick. I'm ill equipped to follow along without some new bit investments, but I'll have to come back to that some day. Currently I limit my driver choices to only those I can recess with a circle jig
              Give the technique a try some time! It's a little extra work but quite easy once you get the hang of it.

              How's the sensitivity on these things going to end up? Presumably you'll have to pad the system down to match up with the ~83dB woofer right? This is the polar opposite of your high sensitivity pro / horn setups.
              Will be in the 83-85db range which is where the subwoofer is at in the 50-100hz range, the midrange needed a few db padding and some baffle step, and the tweeter I brought down almost 10db. I'm thrilled with the frequency response of these speakers, the flattest passive design I've done so far, will post more info soon. The efficiency could be better with a biamp or plate amp installed for the subwoofer, but 85db isn't bad for a full range speaker that you can plug into any 4 or 8ohm amp and crank with.

              Thanks!
              Javad
              --
              Javad Shadzi
              Bay Area, CA

              2-Channel Stereo system in the works with Adcom components and 4-way towers

              Comment


              • #22
                Time to install the port, this got a little interesting, went a totally different direction and resulted in something I really like how it turned out. So normally I route out the OD recess of the port, then the ID, then round over the outlet, like this







                A little oversight in my router plunge depth stop and I screwed it up. For a few seconds I thought I might have to scrap the baffle but I started thinking about how to make the best of it, and came up with a good idea



                I cut a few rings out of Poplar and made an decorative ring that also doubles as a very nice radiused flow feature, roundovers are 1/2"





                Test fit



                With the baffle located on dowels, I flush cut the front and back







                Breathing clearance on back of woofers with cove bit



                Binding post recess, 3.5" diameter







                3/4" roundover on vertical edges only





                Final sanding 120-220-320





                Thanks!
                Javad
                --
                Javad Shadzi
                Bay Area, CA

                2-Channel Stereo system in the works with Adcom components and 4-way towers

                Comment


                • #23
                  Loking great as always! Keep up the great work, its inspiring.

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Originally posted by kenrhodes
                    Loking great as always! Keep up the great work, its inspiring.
                    Thanks Ken!
                    --
                    Javad Shadzi
                    Bay Area, CA

                    2-Channel Stereo system in the works with Adcom components and 4-way towers

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      With all the fab done on the main body and baffles, it's time to start assembling. I like using this technique as it allows the body to be stained one color and the baffles another with perfect seam lines and no bleed over Here one body is stained Varathane ebony black Both bodies stained With bodies stained, time to start gluing on baffles. Notice I installed binding posts and wiring as it would be just about impossible to access once everything is assembled, and I didn't want to have to put the terminals artificially high. I also had to trim about 5/8" off the binding posts to clear the port tube. The idea here is to apply sufficient glue but minimize squeeze out, any that happens can be cleaned up with a damp cloth. Lots of clamps and pressure Before the back was finally glued on I adjusted port tuning, original I was shooting for 38hz or so, but in room response was flatter with 29 so that's what so went with, and these dig to 25hz no problem. 38hz I ended up at 29hz, port tube length of about 18" centerline See that clean stain line? With the front baffle going on the port tube needs to be installed, first step is to pass the port through the baffle and glue the ring on, once that set I applied glue around the port tube and the bezel flange and clamped that down to dry to the baffle Back ready to install More to come! Javad
                      --
                      Javad Shadzi
                      Bay Area, CA

                      2-Channel Stereo system in the works with Adcom components and 4-way towers

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        That stain turned out very nice - pleasure to watch these come together and as always, thanks for the detailed pics.

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          I watched your videos of these online. Great work.
                          I'm curious if that woofer runs out of steam and what you are using for amplification?
                          I really like how you did the port. There are a lot of details to building speakers and you've done a great job of sorting them all out.
                          I've been thinking of building a tower like this but I want to leave the baffle and back removable for service. I always get nervous permanently affixing things together if there is any chance it will need reworked.

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            I'm curious,,,,, you put two "Beads" of glue when you affixed the baffle. Some would say you should brush the glue evenly across. Do you believe the "Squeez Out" is going to cover the entire surface?

                            Mark

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Originally posted by kenrhodes View Post
                              I watched your videos of these online. Great work.
                              I'm curious if that woofer runs out of steam and what you are using for amplification?
                              I really like how you did the port. There are a lot of details to building speakers and you've done a great job of sorting them all out.
                              I've been thinking of building a tower like this but I want to leave the baffle and back removable for service. I always get nervous permanently affixing things together if there is any chance it will need reworked.
                              So in the video I posted that's an Adcom GFA-545II one click below the clip lights, so it's a solid 150 watts and the W6 takes it in stride, I'll post some more videos of the woofer doing 1" peak to peak no problem with no sign of stress. The port is also whisper quiet, even on 25hz tone signals. 1 meter out the speakers do a solid 100db 30hz on up, pretty impressive for a small floor standing speaker.

                              When I feel like the panel needs to be removable (like in the Microfarads V2) I've made it removable, in this case there isn't a worry, even the binding posts I can get to if I need to, though it's a blind sort of fishing a wrench in there and trying to tighten the nuts.

                              Thanks Ken!
                              --
                              Javad Shadzi
                              Bay Area, CA

                              2-Channel Stereo system in the works with Adcom components and 4-way towers

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Originally posted by Psycoacoustics View Post
                                I'm curious,,,,, you put two "Beads" of glue when you affixed the baffle. Some would say you should brush the glue evenly across. Do you believe the "Squeez Out" is going to cover the entire surface?

                                Mark
                                Hey Mark, I'm not a "brusher" per se (I know many are), I have a good sense for how much a bead will squeeze and I've had very good results doing it that way. I like how the bead is forced between the two surfaces to comply to any irregularities.

                                The idea here is the inner bead generously squeezes out to the inside of the enclosure (where I wipe it off), the outer bead sqeezed right to the edge and I did have a few spots of clean up but minimal, as I didn't want to get too much glue wipe off on the stained surface of the body. At the absolute minimum I'm getting a solid 1-1.25" of glue surface are, and in reality it was the full 1.5", not to mention a good number of dowels around the permiter (about 8-10 in each baffle).

                                Thanks!
                                Javad
                                --
                                Javad Shadzi
                                Bay Area, CA

                                2-Channel Stereo system in the works with Adcom components and 4-way towers

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X