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Wolfy's Circle Jig...(a work in progress)

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  • #16
    Definitely following Ben! Funny Iíve been thinking about this too and here you have a thread about it =) Iíve had really good luck with the Jasper jigs overall, havenít broken one, and with a 1/4Ē and 3/16Ē router bits I can do accurate holes easily, but infinity adjustable sounds great. Thanks! Javad
    --
    Javad Shadzi
    Bay Area, CA

    2-Channel Stereo system in the works with Adcom components and 4-way towers

    Comment


    • #17
      Went to get more wood...

      I found they don't have the thicker option of the hardboard at my HD anymore, and I know that's what I used. I measured it to be certain, and it's 5/32 that I used, not the 0.23" number as I stated before. That's 0.156" thick. Anyway- I got to looking at my options, and I picked up a 2' x 4' piece of marker-board and floor-underlayment-ply, both 0.25" thick. With the ply, I can use that as the top, dado it for reduced overall thickness over the trammel and maintain my rigidity without cracking. The fiber boards would be more prone to crack if dadoed. I know this because I tested it with a cutoff of the laminated hardboard core earlier. The seam is the weak point. I'm still going to use the steel 'repair' braces on the top as sketched earlier on the template. The marker-board will be a slippery material for the bottom, and likely better than that of hardboard itself. I thought about pegboard, but with the multiple holes it's more abrasive like that of a brake-rotor, and the peg laminate layer is not as smooth.

      Now- I have to go get longer bolts to mount my router,
      More later,
      Wolf
      "Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
      "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
      "He is a true ambassador for this forum and speaker DIY in general." -Ed Froste
      "We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith

      *InDIYana event website*

      Photobucket pages:
      http://photobucket.com/Wolf-Speakers_and_more

      My blog/writeups/thoughts here at PE:
      http://techtalk.parts-express.com/blog.php?u=4102

      Comment


      • #18
        Well if depth ever is an issue I could make one from 1/8" Aluminum for you
        for cost of materials and shipping (Just the plate). You being such a positive valuable
        contributing member to the audio community and all!. I would just need a good drawing with
        all hole etc locations.

        Comment


        • #19
          The main reasons I went this route are that most jigs are flimsy, have slack or give, or eventually end up breaking. If I want to have gone thinner I could have used the same construction and flat aluminum as the trammel for less thickness. It would need to have set-screws for tensioning in that case, however, and be all aluminum to prevent the cracking I'd already designed to avoid. The reason I didn't is for the dust-extraction purpose. If I didn't need it, this would have been much simpler.

          We'll see how it works in the very near future, and thank you for the offer,
          Wolf
          "Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
          "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
          "He is a true ambassador for this forum and speaker DIY in general." -Ed Froste
          "We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith

          *InDIYana event website*

          Photobucket pages:
          http://photobucket.com/Wolf-Speakers_and_more

          My blog/writeups/thoughts here at PE:
          http://techtalk.parts-express.com/blog.php?u=4102

          Comment


          • #20
            I see, that makes sense, I have broke several Jasper jigs and had to super glue them back together!
            (It works surprisingly well if you are in a pinch)

            Comment


            • #21
              I can laser cut you some masonite or acrylic if that'd help. Just pay shipping and let me build a copy. :P

              Comment


              • #22
                Taking a break whilst working on said jig...
                I could have made it from aluminum or acrylic, and chose this method as a better course of action.

                Later,
                Wolf
                "Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
                "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
                "He is a true ambassador for this forum and speaker DIY in general." -Ed Froste
                "We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith

                *InDIYana event website*

                Photobucket pages:
                http://photobucket.com/Wolf-Speakers_and_more

                My blog/writeups/thoughts here at PE:
                http://techtalk.parts-express.com/blog.php?u=4102

                Comment


                • #23
                  Update...

                  Top dadoed, for and aft mounts bored and attached at the easy feed slide in the middle.

                  Click image for larger version

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                  Prepped mount holes for aluminum bar stock. I both screwed and glued these on. Then I had to cut off the screws' excess in the port area.

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                  For and Aft portions glued in, and the extractor glued and mounted inside the core as intended. The corner cracked, even though I clamped and installed to make the hole better to receive them. So- I glued and clamped that corner again. Turns out the bar stock wasn't quite positioned correctly, so I had to trim the aluminum down with the router. Then I found out that the aluminum binds up when all the way through the jig, so I had to reduce the thickness of the stock to allow easy sliding. Note: use just a couple sheets of paper thickness between the parts in the slide for good measure.

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                  Another view:

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                  Rotational radius as close to bit as possible, and it's better than I hoped...

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                  More later...
                  Wolf
                  "Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
                  "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
                  "He is a true ambassador for this forum and speaker DIY in general." -Ed Froste
                  "We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith

                  *InDIYana event website*

                  Photobucket pages:
                  http://photobucket.com/Wolf-Speakers_and_more

                  My blog/writeups/thoughts here at PE:
                  http://techtalk.parts-express.com/blog.php?u=4102

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    As it currently sits....


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                    More later,
                    Wolf
                    "Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
                    "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
                    "He is a true ambassador for this forum and speaker DIY in general." -Ed Froste
                    "We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith

                    *InDIYana event website*

                    Photobucket pages:
                    http://photobucket.com/Wolf-Speakers_and_more

                    My blog/writeups/thoughts here at PE:
                    http://techtalk.parts-express.com/blog.php?u=4102

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      I am going to flip the short trammel pictured, and drill a pinhole closer to the router bit and try and achieve a closer radius, and one that is of a preferable memorable measurement for ease of use.

                      Later,
                      Wolf
                      "Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
                      "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
                      "He is a true ambassador for this forum and speaker DIY in general." -Ed Froste
                      "We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith

                      *InDIYana event website*

                      Photobucket pages:
                      http://photobucket.com/Wolf-Speakers_and_more

                      My blog/writeups/thoughts here at PE:
                      http://techtalk.parts-express.com/blog.php?u=4102

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Hey Wolf,

                        In your picture below, I take it that the hole near the end of the aluminum bar is the pivot point. It may be better to have a pivot point hole nearer the middle of the bar. That way the bar would be supported on both sides in the aluminum channel reducing any "slop" from tolerances, flexing, etc.. Albeit, you would lose the larger diameters. But that can always be solved with a longer bar. If a second screw stop could be added to the other side across from the dust collector, that would add rigidity as well.
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                        • #27
                          Here's the thing- If I put another screw-stop on the other side of the router (which I did entertain), I could literally crack the unit apart and have to start all over. The top will be reinforced to both sides of the router, but the bottom CAN'T be. The pin has to be able to slide past the other side, and therefore a bottom reinforcement is out of the question, and I'm only able to use one screw-stop. I thought about 2 on the right side, but I ended up not having the room to do so. The right side will have bottom panel reinforcement.
                          The suggested screw-stop would both make the left side of the jig as pictured bow and no longer be flat to the working material, in addition to possibly cracking the jig as mentioned above.

                          The longer trammel thought is a solid one in terms of slop, but I don't have enough to worry about in that regard. If I were to do that, it would also cause another place where I could make accidental circular lines in the working material, and not work within the confines of the dimensions that we are sometimes held to amidst clamps and other things.

                          More will be made clear when you see how the bottom of the jig gets finished off.

                          Thanks for the concern,
                          Wolf
                          "Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
                          "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
                          "He is a true ambassador for this forum and speaker DIY in general." -Ed Froste
                          "We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith

                          *InDIYana event website*

                          Photobucket pages:
                          http://photobucket.com/Wolf-Speakers_and_more

                          My blog/writeups/thoughts here at PE:
                          http://techtalk.parts-express.com/blog.php?u=4102

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            This one is modified in a slightly different way than mine but it also works. I just removed the "T" square part added a straight aluminum bar and a pin to mine. No flex, infinite adjustability and micro adjust, The dust extraction would depend on the router brand, some have better systems than others. My 2,25 hp porter has a port built into the plunge lift that works well.
                            Second photo is the newest porter version already set up to cut circles.

                            Jeeze the anti-anxiety drugs wear off and I just caaaant shut up can i? lol.

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Well- I hit a snag...

                              I got the bottom glued on, and the trammel slid perfectly before I did that, I cleaned out the excess glue inside the slot, and now it's too tight to be used properly. I'll show the photos of how it was supposed to look later, as I'll likely have to separate the 'halves' to either side, and reassemble the jig with flat aluminum reinforcement strips. It's how I DIDN'T want to do it in the first place, but it'll still work and is salvageable.

                              What happened is the bottom piece glued in a bit of a cupped formation, even though I used right angle pieces to try and keep it square. Oh well.... I wasn't happy when I found this out. But again- knowing your project and how to fix your mistakes shows how good and determined you are at your craft.

                              Later,
                              Wolf
                              "Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
                              "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
                              "He is a true ambassador for this forum and speaker DIY in general." -Ed Froste
                              "We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith

                              *InDIYana event website*

                              Photobucket pages:
                              http://photobucket.com/Wolf-Speakers_and_more

                              My blog/writeups/thoughts here at PE:
                              http://techtalk.parts-express.com/blog.php?u=4102

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Originally posted by Wolf View Post
                                Well- I hit a snag...

                                I got the bottom glued on, and the trammel slid perfectly before I did that, I cleaned out the excess glue inside the slot, and now it's too tight to be used properly. I'll show the photos of how it was supposed to look later, as I'll likely have to separate the 'halves' to either side, and reassemble the jig with flat aluminum reinforcement strips. It's how I DIDN'T want to do it in the first place, but it'll still work and is salvageable.

                                What happened is the bottom piece glued in a bit of a cupped formation, even though I used right angle pieces to try and keep it square. Oh well.... I wasn't happy when I found this out. But again- knowing your project and how to fix your mistakes shows how good and determined you are at your craft.

                                Later,
                                Wolf
                                Right... stuff happens, but how we figure out how to fix it is the real test of what we can do. I screw everything up somehow, but usually manage to get the result I was hoping for eventually through some creativity and determination.

                                Sorry about the setback, but I have no doubt you'll get it fully functional in short order. Would Epoxy work as a glue since it may not 'wet' the wood and cause cupping if you know what I mean? Sounds like you did all you could to keep things flat, though. Actually, I'm surprised that MDF/HDF would absorb glue to the degree that it would cause cupping... man, I don't know how you could have anticipated that.

                                TomZ
                                *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
                                *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF *Cello's Speaker Project Page

                                *Building the "Micro-B 2.1 Plate Amplifier -- Part 1 * Part 2 * Part 3 * Part 4 * * Part 5 'Review' * -- Assembly Instructions PDF

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