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  • #61
    Originally posted by Kevin K. View Post
    Really cool little project Tom, looks like it would be a fun build. A couple of questions for you, maybe I missed it but are the majority of the enclosure parts 1/2" MDF or 3/4"? From the size of your hands and fingers in the photos, I'm guessing 1/2". Second question, does the cork add any surface friction to help with the caul during clamping?

    I'm hoping the control unit works out good for you, I'd like to build a couple of these. Keep up the great work!
    Thanks Kevin, it is fun having something to work on that uses fairly small parts. My back never hurts after working on this thing.
    Right, it's 1/2" MDF or 1/4" for the top/bottom, and two layers of 1/8" on each curved side.

    I bet the cork would add some nice friction, but I put a slice of wax paper between the veneer and the cork which mitigates any 'frictiony' effects. I didn't do that once and some glue ended up where it shouldn't be and when I went to take the weight/clamps off my cork was glued to my cabinet. No biggie, but the cork was ruined.

    I use it basically to even out pressure in case there are any uneven parts of the underlying panels. I did some sanding on the piece, so I didn't want any possibility of the sacrificial veneer not sticking to the cabinet. I did have a few un-glued sections of sac. veneer one time I did something similar so I'm learning from mistakes.

    Yeah, I really need to test out the faceplate in place since it's so tight in there... I didn't get a chance to do so yet. If it doesn't end up sounding like I want, I'm kind of in trouble. I may just put a little shelf in that space to place your cell phone and use PE's bluetooth board to wirelessly connect to the amp, or even just use one of PE's bluetooth amp boards. I also have a tiny spectrum analyzer that would fit in that space pretty nicely. I'm optimistic that it will be fine, though.

    I made parts for two of these and worked both of them to a point. I may use the larger ND91's and Dayton's 5/8" tweeter as a larger, louder option for this in the future... If I used the AMT tweeter in them, I could call it a 'Bantam Table Radio' but I don't know about spending that kind of coin on a pair of AMT tweeters for a table radio... I think the 'Bantam' name means AMT tweeter, so probably not... but I may do it anyway... it would be MUCH louder. Those ND91's are crazy little woofers.

    TomZ
    *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
    *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF *Cello's Speaker Project Page

    *Building the "Micro-B 2.1 Plate Amplifier -- Part 1 * Part 2 * Part 3 * Part 4 * * Part 5 'Review' * -- Assembly Instructions PDF

    Comment


    • #62
      Originally posted by Kevin K. View Post
      Really cool little project Tom, looks like it would be a fun build. A couple of questions for you, maybe I missed it but are the majority of the enclosure parts 1/2" MDF or 3/4"? From the size of your hands and fingers in the photos, I'm guessing 1/2". Second question, does the cork add any surface friction to help with the caul during clamping?

      I'm hoping the control unit works out good for you, I'd like to build a couple of these. Keep up the great work!
      Thanks Kevin, it is fun having something to work on that uses fairly small parts. My back never hurts after working on this thing.
      Right, it's 1/2" MDF or 1/4" for the top/bottom, and two layers of 1/8" on each curved side.

      I bet the cork would add some nice friction, but I put a slice of wax paper between the veneer and the cork which mitigates any 'frictiony' effects. I didn't do that once and some glue ended up where it shouldn't be and when I went to take the weight/clamps off my cork was glued to my cabinet. No biggie, but the cork was ruined.

      I use it basically to even out pressure in case there are any uneven parts of the underlying panels. I did some sanding on the piece, so I didn't want any possibility of the sacrificial veneer not sticking to the cabinet. I did have a few un-glued sections of sac. veneer one time I did something similar so I'm learning from mistakes.

      Yeah, I really need to test out the faceplate in place since it's so tight in there... I didn't get a chance to do so yet. If it doesn't end up sounding like I want, I'm kind of in trouble. I may just put a little shelf in that space to place your cell phone and use PE's bluetooth board to wirelessly connect to the amp, or even just use one of PE's bluetooth amp boards. I also have a tiny spectrum analyzer that would fit in that space pretty nicely. I'm optimistic that it will be fine, though.

      I made parts for two of these and worked both of them to a point. I may use the larger ND91's and Dayton's 5/8" tweeter as a larger, louder option for this in the future... If I used the AMT tweeter in them, I could call it a 'Bantam Table Radio' but I don't know about spending that kind of coin on a pair of AMT tweeters for a table radio... I think the 'Bantam' name means AMT tweeter, so probably not... but I may do it anyway... it would be MUCH louder. Those ND91's are crazy little woofers.

      TomZ
      *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
      *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF *Cello's Speaker Project Page

      *Building the "Micro-B 2.1 Plate Amplifier -- Part 1 * Part 2 * Part 3 * Part 4 * * Part 5 'Review' * -- Assembly Instructions PDF

      Comment


      • #63
        Yea, I bet a Bantam version of this thing would be fantastic. Looking forward to your progress on this project.
        My "No-Name" CC Speaker
        Kerry's "Silverbacks"
        Ben's Synchaeta's for Mom
        The Archers
        Rick's "db" Desktop CBT Arrays
        The Gandalf's

        Comment


        • #64
          + 1 for a Bantam version. Tom, unless they went up I thought the Mini amt was reasonable. Of course more than this project and hope to hear positive results
          with the control unit.

          Comment


          • #65
            Thanks for the kind words.
            I think a pair of the bantam tweets are $40 on sale... Not super expensive, but lots more than a $5 neo tweeter for sure.
            TomZ
            *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
            *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF *Cello's Speaker Project Page

            *Building the "Micro-B 2.1 Plate Amplifier -- Part 1 * Part 2 * Part 3 * Part 4 * * Part 5 'Review' * -- Assembly Instructions PDF

            Comment


            • #66
              Getting close to putting veneer on the front/back of this.

              I worked on the grills and magnet holes today.

              I can't remember if I bought the little magnets from PE or Harbor Freight Tools, but they're basically the same size.

              Did a bevel on the inside of the grill to clearance the speakers, then did a bevel/roundover with the oscillating drum sander and some hand sanding to get the outside of the grill smoothed over.

              Also made a recess in the back of the grill to make a nice place for the grill cloth to glue onto. Then I glued in the magnets on the cabinet. I made sure to have all the poles N or S the same on all the magnets on the unit. I marked them with a red marker to be sure in case they popped out. Some epoxy set them in place permanently.
              Then some body filler to fill the slight gap as I recessed the magnets slightly to allow for some filler material, as the veneer will glue to this panel directly.....

              Click image for larger version

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              Attached Files
              *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
              *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF *Cello's Speaker Project Page

              *Building the "Micro-B 2.1 Plate Amplifier -- Part 1 * Part 2 * Part 3 * Part 4 * * Part 5 'Review' * -- Assembly Instructions PDF

              Comment


              • #67
                Here is a shot of the grills on and the gap between the grill and the unit.
                The grills will get a few coats of Painters Choice flat black paint to hide the MDF under the black grill cloth. The grills really hold well with the two magnets. I used dowel centering pins to locate the grill holes by pressing the grills onto the main cabinet.

                Also, the base is primed with BIN shellac base primer and is ready for RustOleum texture paint, then gloss black.

                Next up is making a center piece to house the radio faceplate. I've tossed around a few ideas, but in the end I think I'll just use MDF machined for a recessed faceplate and then do a super-shiny gloss black paint job. I think it will look nice next to the black grills and the shiny-ness should blend nicely with the intended high gloss finish on the main cabinet.

                I just can't believe how much work I've put into this so far. Even though I knew it would take more than I thought (it usually does) I mis-underestimated by quite a lot this time. No worries, though; as long as it looks great when it's done, I'll be happy. Though I've goofed a few things up already, I do really like how it's coming along.

                TomZ

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                Attached Files
                *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
                *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF *Cello's Speaker Project Page

                *Building the "Micro-B 2.1 Plate Amplifier -- Part 1 * Part 2 * Part 3 * Part 4 * * Part 5 'Review' * -- Assembly Instructions PDF

                Comment


                • #68
                  Veneer is done, just have to sand and touch up a bit.

                  This is some waterfall Bubinga that Mike was kind enough to give me awhile back. It looks the same, but this stuff is not nearly as flaky or as prone to chipping as the stuff I used on my Esoteries speakers. The grain on this stuff is also a bit smoother it seems. Using fine sand paper to smooth it out makes it feel like paper, very smooth. I'll still do the grain filling thing probably, but it hardly needs it. Odd. I've done a fair amount of veneering, and I usually see consistent grain within the same species of wood. This stuff must be 'premium' waterfall Bubinga!

                  The base is painted and so is the little center bezel piece the faceplate will sit in. Pics of that tonight maybe.

                  I need to put the grill cloth on the grills and drill a few holes here and there but it's really starting to get there.

                  Not much left after the finish work and final assembly. I'll test that out on a scrap first of course.
                  Having a new heater/AC/Water heater installed in the basement this week, so things are a bit moved around down there. But this little thing doesn't need much room to work on it.

                  That silver round thing on top is a push on / push off lighted power switch with the 'power' icon on it that lights up. It will take one push of that to turn the amp on and enable the faceplate to turn on, then the faceplate will need to be turned on to get sound. The top button will be able to turn the whole shebang off once you're done listening to it.

                  I Wish there was an all-in-one solution that didn't need a separate button push, but this will do for now. I was thinking of tapping the faceplate to find a voltage output when the unit is turned on, then use a relay or something to turn on the amp, but that's just getting too complicated for me. I have had to keep telling myself "Keep It Simple Stupid" many times as I've contemplated possible upgrades or alterations. Every added doo-dad can introduce possible noise, and it's tight in there as it is.... I know this setup works sound-wise, I'm just prettying it up a bit for my friend... it will sound good... I have to just stay focused.

                  TomZ
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                  *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
                  *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF *Cello's Speaker Project Page

                  *Building the "Micro-B 2.1 Plate Amplifier -- Part 1 * Part 2 * Part 3 * Part 4 * * Part 5 'Review' * -- Assembly Instructions PDF

                  Comment


                  • #69
                    Looks great. Pretty expensive gift by now. Nice detail in the grill. I may have to borrow that one.
                    John H

                    Synergy Horn, SLS-85, BMR-3L, Mini-TL, BR-2, Titan OB, B452, Udique, Vultus, Latus1, Seriatim, Aperivox,Pencil Tower

                    Comment

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