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HF Sub Suggestions, Using Bash 500S

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  • HF Sub Suggestions, Using Bash 500S

    Hi everyone,
    ​I would like to build a nice subwoofer using a Bash 500S amp I have from a previous boombox project. I initially powered two UXP10D-2 which I got on sale years ago with the amp, which for my boombox project was fine. It went boom. lol. Now I would like to build a sub for my bookshelf speakers I made about a year ago now that I use for listening to music and watching movies. I haven't made a thread for them yet, but I have attached their simulated response (one of these days I'll get my own measuring equipment...). I used Dayton's RS225P-8A and HiVi Q1R ​in their design. They sound great, and they have a good amount of bass as is. I tried playing the bravox subs with them but the sound quality of the bravox subs just wasn't anywhere near the speakers', and they couldn't produce the extra lows well enough either. So, I want to make something to pick up the rest of the lows with high sound quality.
    ​Design constrictions:
    ​1) I don't want to have a *huge* enclosure.
    ​2) my listening area is about a 20' x 30'
    ​3) I would prefer sound quality over quantity
    ​4) cost can't be more than ~$150 (unless you're a really good salesman ;p)

    ​Are the Dayton reference HF subs any good? RSS265HF-4​ for example.
    I'm open to any suggestions.
    ​Thanks!
    Attached Files
    Bravox UXP10D-2 Ultimate Performance Plus 10" DVC Subwoofer 2 Ohm Per Coil

  • #2
    The Dayton RS subs are excellent. If you want a small enclosure the RSS265HF-4 is a good choice, but that is a lot of room to fill. You might consider two subs in two separate small enclosures. With that budget, a pair of Peerless 830668's in about 1.25 cubes sealed each will reach 40's in room and fill that area better than a single sub. This will also maintain a 4 ohm load to the amp and give you reasonable output.
    Your results may vary.

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    • #3
      The RSS series are all basically excellent sub drivers.

      Why not tell us about the "boom" boxes you made for your Bravox drivers (if you stlll have them). By their specs, they should be able to perform well enough for sub duty in the proper enclosure. I'd put them in 2.0 cf (net) with a 4"id by 13" long port tube, giving them an Fb and F3 approaching 30Hz (this is for an amp w/OUT boost).

      Look for another (recent) thread on here re: the RSS315HF sub for box ideas. IMO the OPs biggest hurdle is that B500 amp's default boost of +2dB @ 36Hz. You kind of have to design the box around that boost to keep it from being boomy.
      For your Bravox subs w/that B500, I'd go a bit bigger (2.5cf) and tune a bit lower (26Hz) making the 4" port 17" long. Now it's a mid-20Hz sub, and that "bump" is flattened out. They can only take about 80w RMS in this config., but that's still over 105dB.

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      • #4
        Strongly agree with mattp that you consider two subs. Made a lot of difference with my system. My subs also use the RSS series and I'm very satisfied with their performance. Look through the projects pages. Plenty of well-documented sub woofer designs.

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        • #5
          For my boombox, I used Bravox's suggested vented enclosure dimensions which was 1.4ft^3 with a 4" x ~10" port. I had each of the subs in their own enclosure.
          ​So for whatever design I decide on I should tune it low because of the amps +2dB boost at 36Hz?

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          • #6
            Nope, what you need to do is to use WinISD "Pro" (the alpha vers., not the simpler "beta" vers.) and add the B500's EQ (boost) under the appropriate tab to see what's going on w/your box model TAKING the amp's boost into CONSIDERation.

            In WinISD the 1.4cf box (w/YOUR boost) is very narrow bandwidth, only going down to the upper 30s w/a +3dB hump at 46Hz. A "boomer", just as you described.

            I think you'd really like MY box suggestion w/those. Why not try it?

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