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Design Team Build #3 - The Juggernauts (also know as The Better Late Than Never)

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  • Design Team Build #3 - The Juggernauts (also know as The Better Late Than Never)

    Definition of juggernaut:a massive inexorable force, campaign, movement, or object that crushes whatever is in its path



    I've had many delays in getting started on these due to some family issues that have come up and several work related hold-ups but finally got a couple hours to get started on them this past weekend. These will be using the Morel Supreme ST-1048 tweeters, Vifa NE149W-08 midrange, and Dayton RSS265HF-4 woofer with matching passive radiator. Total interior volume for the woofers will be about 1.7 cu feet with an f3 of around 29 Hz.

    These will be about 44 inches tall and 8.5 inches wide with the woofer mounted close to the floor to try and get a little boundary gain. The sides will likely be satin white and the face and top will be solid walnut (my new go-to color combo...). I am building a sub frame out of 1/2 inch Baltic birch plywood that will then have green glue applied and an MDF outer shell built over that. I'm hoping this will kill cabinet vibrations. I've gotten started on cutting the sub frame and will snap a couple pictures tonight when I get home of the progress.
    Last edited by Navy Guy; 11-16-2017, 10:35 AM.
    -Kerry

    www.pursuitofperfectsound.com

  • #2
    Sub and passive on the same side? Would that cause rocking, especially since it it has a slim baffle. Is that a hardwood jacket on the sides....? Cool Project.

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    • #3
      Another question. Does it matter if the PR is mounted higher or lower? Does the woofer need to be mounted lower for boundary gain or would the PR also be doing the same?

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      • #4
        Originally posted by ani_101 View Post
        Sub and passive on the same side? Would that cause rocking, especially since it it has a slim baffle. Is that a hardwood jacket on the sides....? Cool Project.
        Ani, the passive isn't really moving when the woofer is moving a lot and vice versa. Mounting the passive on the other side wouldn't really have any effect on reducing vibrations.

        Yeah, it will be a sort of hardwood jacket for the front edges on the side and top.
        -Kerry

        www.pursuitofperfectsound.com

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by ani_101 View Post
          Another question. Does it matter if the PR is mounted higher or lower? Does the woofer need to be mounted lower for boundary gain or would the PR also be doing the same?

          The PR being mounted lower would give it the boundary gain but since it acts like a port, would be similar to having a port very close to the floor. I need the woofer frequencies boosted, not the port, so that's why it will be lower. As a side benefit, it will also help keep the weight lower in the cabinet so they are more stable.
          -Kerry

          www.pursuitofperfectsound.com

          Comment


          • #6
            Great drivers, I know you will "cook" it up good.

            I think I hear a difference - wow, it's amazing!" Ethan Winer: audio myths
            "As God is my witness I'll never be without a good pair of speakers!" Scarlett O'Hara

            High value, high quality RS150/TB28-537SH bookshelf - TARGAS NLA!
            SB13/Vifa BC25SC06 MTM DCR Galeons-SB13-MTM
            My Voxel min sub Yet-another-Voxel-build

            Tangband W6-sub

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            • #7
              Looking forward to see this coming to fruition. Is there a second passive radiator on the other side?

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              • #8
                Originally posted by bcodemz View Post
                Looking forward to see this coming to fruition. Is there a second passive radiator on the other side?

                No, since I'm not using these in sub duty, the excursion won't be an issue. The Dayton passives were designed with twice the xmax of the woofers so they work OK as a single. This configuration should take up to about 200 watts before problems. My amps top out at about 160-170 watts at 4 ohms, so it should be OK.
                -Kerry

                www.pursuitofperfectsound.com

                Comment


                • #9
                  Initial frame roughed out. Will probably get the rest of the subframe done this weekend.
                  -Kerry

                  www.pursuitofperfectsound.com

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    -Kerry

                    www.pursuitofperfectsound.com

                    Comment


                    • #12
                      So while trimming the sides with my flush trim bit today, the bearing popped off on the guide and this is what I ended up with:




                      I'll use a little it of body filler to get it back close to square before the outer shell goes on.




                      While I was waiting on the body filler to cure, I almost forgot to add some of this to the inside of the cabinets. Would have been really difficult once the front was on.



                      -Kerry

                      www.pursuitofperfectsound.com

                      Comment


                      • #13
                        I have had bearings pop off before and it sucks! I ended up rabbiting out the section and gluing in a new piece.
                        Looks like the build in making some good process despite the hiccups.

                        Comment


                        • #14
                          Originally posted by Navy Guy View Post
                          So while trimming the sides with my flush trim bit today, the bearing popped off on the guide and this is what I ended up with:




                          I'll use a little it of body filler to get it back close to square before the outer shell goes on.




                          While I was waiting on the body filler to cure, I almost forgot to add some of this to the inside of the cabinets. Would have been really difficult once the front was on.



                          Sorry to see your bearing failure Kerry, been there too :(

                          Question... how effective is that Acoust-X product? Does it cure light and fluffy so no added mass to the panels? How low in frequency do you think it absorbs? Not Diss'n it, just interested in your experience. Thanks.
                          Craig

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                          • #15
                            Originally posted by PWR RYD View Post

                            Sorry to see your bearing failure Kerry, been there too :(

                            Question... how effective is that Acoust-X product? Does it cure light and fluffy so no added mass to the panels? How low in frequency do you think it absorbs? Not Diss'n it, just interested in your experience. Thanks.
                            -Kerry

                            www.pursuitofperfectsound.com

                            Comment

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