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Wiring BASH300 to two subs

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  • #16
    Originally posted by scottvalentin View Post
    Another Canuck! There are a few of us here. I have the advantage of my parents living very close to the US border with a little ups drop point only 10 minutes from them so I order stuff and they bring it to me when they are visiting the grandkids! I'm in Calgary, whereabouts are you?
    Nice! That's awesome. I don't have the time right now to make a trip to the border, so just trying to make due with what I can!

    I'm about 60 minutes north of Toronto. Calgary is awesome, been there a few times, beautiful city and surrounding areas too.

    I think or are our best bets, although it can be slim pickings. I am going to just try PE for these items, see what my total is. Might not be back since they're small and light.


    • #17
      So I am an idiot and just realized that my brother (who lives in Boston) is coming home for the holidays.

      So, ordering from PE to him and getting him to bring the parts is the cheapest and easiest option.

      How does this look:

      4 of these:

      2 for the amp box and 1 for each sub box

      4 of these:

      2 for each cable to connect the amp to subs.

      And I buy my own 12 gauge speaker wire locally and make my own cables, and use that to connect the sub to speakon in the sub enclosure.

      Easy peasy?


      • #18
        I would get one of these over the 2-pole connector:

        I recommend this jack:

        I like to use a Forstner to bore for the jack hole, and IIRC, it's a 15/16" diameter.

        If you use the 4-pole, you have more options for the cables if you want to use them for other connections, not just this application. You could just parallel the jack + and - connections to allow all 4 wires to be used and cut down on signal loss, parasitic resistance, etc. Depending on how long a run you have, this could be important. The reason for the jack, is that it has 1/4" faston connections The smaller version is not really a good faston connection and solder could be required at times.

        As a recommendation only, I like to use this as speaker cable for these things:

        Any direct-burial cable 4/12 from ProCo, RoyalElectric, Carol, etc will fit the job. Be advised that the difference between 300V and 600V can make the jacket quite a bit thicker. I've used a forstner drill bit through the strain-relief chuck on the cable connector at times to allow the use of 4/10 600V, so it can be done. Most any big-box hardware store will have it sold by the foot.

        Just some thoughts,
        "Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
        "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
        "He is a true ambassador for this forum and speaker DIY in general." -Ed Froste
        "We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith

        *InDIYana event website*

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        My blog/writeups/thoughts here at PE:


        • #19
          Thank you! Will take all of this into consideration. Many thanks for your input!