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  • Veneer problem

    When I built my Solitice kit a couple of years ago, I veneered the cabinets using contact cement. Today I noticed that one of the baffle's veneers has failed, and its peeling up from the corner. The veneer istself appears undamaged. So my question is how best to repair it? Should I go back to the contact cement and simply apply more? Or should I use another type of glue for this?
    The area that has peeled up is roughly a right triangle about 12 " high by 3 or 4" wide at the base.

  • #2
    double post

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    • #3
      Is the substrate MDF? If the surface looks dry like bare MDF you might try more contact cement, but this could be a precursor to continued failures
      John H

      Synergy Horn, SLS-85, BMR-3L, Mini-TL, BR-2, Titan OB, B452, Udique, Vultus, Latus1, Seriatim, Aperivox,Pencil Tower

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      • #4
        You don't really have much of a choice unless the lamentation failed at the wood and not the contact cement.

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        • #5
          If you happened to use water based contact cement in the first place, do not use that again. It's crap.

          If you used "the stinky stuff", use it again - smoosh some in there as deep as you can get it
          and clamp a piece of wood on top. Leave it overnight.

          I think I hear a difference - wow, it's amazing!" Ethan Winer: audio myths
          "As God is my witness I'll never be without a good pair of speakers!" Scarlett O'Hara

          High value, high quality RS150/TB28-537SH bookshelf - TARGAS NLA!
          SB13/Vifa BC25SC06 MTM DCR Galeons-SB13-MTM
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          • #6
            Substrate was MDF, and the cement was Titan, water based. I already resolved never to use it again, because it so badly gummed up my router bits when I trimmed the veneer.

            I once did a large system with Barge's contact cement, which is solvent based, and never had any sort of problem with it, other than the odor at application. This is a leather/craft cement but I read a book on veneering where it was recommended, and they claimed a number of furniture manufacturers use it. So I tried it and was pleased with the result, which has held up now for about 20 years.
            So I guess the question now is, can I apply Barge's over the old stuff? I have no way to remove what remains of the old stuff on the veneer and substrate.

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            • #7
              Don, this is contact cement. You apply to the surfaces, let it dry, and then touch them together. The directions you gave sound more like for traditional wood glue.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by skatz View Post
                Don, this is contact cement. You apply to the surfaces, let it dry, and then touch them together. The directions you gave sound more like for traditional wood glue.
                Yeah, of course, but we are talking about a repair situation, not a new application.
                Trying to avoid ripping the whole side off, maybe you can get away with a minor repair.
                Gotta tell you, once the Titan DX starts letting go, the whole side will come off easily. I share your pain.

                I think I hear a difference - wow, it's amazing!" Ethan Winer: audio myths
                "As God is my witness I'll never be without a good pair of speakers!" Scarlett O'Hara

                High value, high quality RS150/TB28-537SH bookshelf - TARGAS NLA!
                SB13/Vifa BC25SC06 MTM DCR Galeons-SB13-MTM
                My Voxel min sub Yet-another-Voxel-build

                Tangband W6-sub

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                • #9
                  Next time, consider PSA veneer. I have a pair of reference recession busters many years old, PSA cherry veneer over mdf. No problems. It goes on so fast and clean, you will be spoiled. I am a PSA fanboi.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by donradick View Post


                    Gotta tell you, once the Titan DX starts letting go, the whole side will come off easily. I share your pain.
                    I hope you're wrong, but that sounds like the voice of experience I'll never use that stuff again.
                    I'm going to try the Barge's on it, just need to locate the can I have.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by donradick View Post
                      If you happened to use water based contact cement in the first place, do not use that again. It's crap.
                      Agree 100%. In 1997 I built a slim tower 2-way using standard contact cement. I ran out of glue and still had to apply the front and rear pieces. I drove to Home Depot and they were all out of the good stuff, so I picked up the same brands "water based" glue. A couple of years later, all 4 pieces were loosening up, making snap, crackle, pop sounds. Never again.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by djg View Post
                        Next time, consider PSA veneer. I have a pair of reference recession busters many years old, PSA cherry veneer over mdf. No problems. It goes on so fast and clean, you will be spoiled. I am a PSA fanboi.
                        I've yet to try PSA, but I can't help wonder how it holds up long-term. Hopefully just as well as using contact glue with all the good ol' volatile components that irk the greenies.

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                        • #13
                          Waboo - everyone I've heard of that tried PSA really liked, and no long term problems reported.

                          I almost post pics of my Targas build, with the veneer now coming off in sheets - but it's not pretty.

                          and By The Way guys, I've moved to the iron method for veneer using Heat-Lock glue and it's pretty foolproof and secure.

                          I think I hear a difference - wow, it's amazing!" Ethan Winer: audio myths
                          "As God is my witness I'll never be without a good pair of speakers!" Scarlett O'Hara

                          High value, high quality RS150/TB28-537SH bookshelf - TARGAS NLA!
                          SB13/Vifa BC25SC06 MTM DCR Galeons-SB13-MTM
                          My Voxel min sub Yet-another-Voxel-build

                          Tangband W6-sub

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                          • #14
                            Hot iron and Heat Lock is something else I haven't tried in addition to PSA. Man, I truly am old school and haven't kept up with the times, I guess.

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                            • #15
                              I also use Heat-Lock with great results. Contact cement always worked OK, but I hate the fumes. I never figured out a good way to trim PSA - it gums up the flush trim bit on my router. Anybody find a good way to do it?

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