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So I like building boxes. Here is how I do it.

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  • So I like building boxes. Here is how I do it.

    I have decided I like building the boxes more than then the xo design part. I have decided I like miter finishing my boxes. I getter better each time I do one. If I do a miter joint I can glue a box together pretty fast. I made a small video timing myself gluing 1 cabinet.

    The key is your pieces have to fit together really well in the first place. I hope this helps some of you on how to build a speaker box. I still consider myself a newbie on the whole thing.

    P.S. I also found another great use for my Omni Mic. Recording my voice for the video. Nice and clean recording.

    https://youtu.be/VxoapoUxmgY
    On the cheap diy. That is my motto - www.hifiposse.com

  • #2
    Nice job. I also checked out one of your other videos. Tell us more about this mini-cnc machine you have? That sounds interesting.




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    • #3
      So I got the parallel version of the 3040 Ebay CNC. I have heard good and bad things about Ebay CNC machines. But I got lucky. The one bad thing is that the spindle has really low power. Also, the settings I got from eBay were wrong. I had to figure them out.

      One thing that stopped working for me was the spindle power. Though it is not a big deal I swapped out my spindle and user a separate power supply now.

      So can I recommend the 3040? It now works fine for me, but it was not without initial problems. I know a person how got a 6040 version and it's just a big doorstop right now.
      Do not expect any support.

      So I heard good and bad stories about the unit. But the price was right!
      On the cheap diy. That is my motto - www.hifiposse.com

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      • #4
        As you mention, the KEY is getting the pieces to fit exactly. I recently tried to miter some pieces (not a speaker) and did a poor job. I'd like to miter some speaker boxes I'm my next build, but am discouraged from trying again. Do you have any tips on getting the mitered pieces precise to begin with?

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        • #5
          Thanks, I just checked it out on ebay. Looks like a fun toy to play around with

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          • #6
            I have to admit the first I don't know how many times I tried. But I finally have a decent technique down and can replicate a pretty decent box now.

            Make sure your table saw is square. Before you even miter. Cut your rectangle parts first. If they are not square you have not chance. I have a cheap table saw right now, and it is horrible. But I have worked with it enough to get it to work for me.


            I have tried various ways to miter. Some use a 45-degree router bit. I personally just angle my table to 45% and do it that way. Although it takes practice. A router bit creates more dust but it will give you almost a perfect 45% cut.
            On the cheap diy. That is my motto - www.hifiposse.com

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            • #7
              Uh-oh, I think the top is gonna rattle!

              Anyway, I get the jist, and it's a good process...
              I scored a pretty nice oak veneered flatpack of two small speaker boxes from DIY Indiana last year and I think I'll use your exact process to do the glue-up.

              Thanks man, great idea and video!

              TomZ
              *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
              *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF *Cello's Speaker Project Page

              *Building the "Micro-B 2.1 Plate Amplifier -- Part 1 * Part 2 * Part 3 * Part 4 * * Part 5 'Review' * -- Assembly Instructions PDF

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              • #8
                I like 45 degree cabs as well. My comments would be to remember that the saw blade pulls the leading edge into the saw essentially trying to make the cut not square. My technique to prevent that is to use a long sacrificial miter gage board for the initial cuts then finish with light cuts (less than a 1/16th) using the fence or cross cut sled. Basically sneaking up on the final dimension.
                John H

                Synergy Horn, SLS-85, BMR-3L, Mini-TL, BR-2, Titan OB, B452, Udique, Vultus, Latus1, Seriatim, Aperivox,Pencil Tower

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                • #9
                  I got lucky on the “little” boxes I just glued up. I only have a miter box so I got mitered edges

                  EDIT: Funny enough I found an old video very similar to yours when I did mine. The only difference is that he made a big deal about taping the last edge. He claimed it is hard to get the last joint tight with tape. He clamped two blocks together with trim nails and proceeded to tie some string around them to “lace” the parts together.

                  I did this and realized that the box was not square? I ended up taping it like you and also put a nylon strap around it. However, It slipped a tiny amount so that joint was not perfect. Luckily, after sanding (I used plywood) the edge was fine cosmetically.

                  The only thing PERHAPS you could mention is that using a good quality glue for the end grain on real wood.

                  Thanks for the video.

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                  • #10
                    I have never tried this on real wood. So that would be a learning curve for me. Although doing a whole box mitered in real wood. Oooh!!!!
                    On the cheap diy. That is my motto - www.hifiposse.com

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by hobbyhands View Post
                      I have never tried this on real wood. So that would be a learning curve for me. Although doing a whole box mitered in real wood. Oooh!!!!
                      Well get after it

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by hobbyhands View Post
                        I have never tried this on real wood. So that would be a learning curve for me. Although doing a whole box mitered in real wood. Oooh!!!!


                        Miter joints do not work out as well with real wood unless you reinforce the joint with a spline. Gluing end grain to end grain with real wood does not create a strong joint and it will eventually fail. You could also use a special router bit called a lock miter bit but that will not work on plywood and I think you need a different bit for different thicknesses of wood (and they are not cheap).


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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by jhollander View Post
                          I like 45 degree cabs as well. My comments would be to remember that the saw blade pulls the leading edge into the saw essentially trying to make the cut not square. My technique to prevent that is to use a long sacrificial miter gage board for the initial cuts then finish with light cuts (less than a 1/16th) using the fence or cross cut sled. Basically sneaking up on the final dimension.
                          i didn't get that. Please explain further.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by RexDog View Post



                            Miter joints do not work out as well with real wood unless you reinforce the joint with a spline. Gluing end grain to end grain with real wood does not create a strong joint and it will eventually fail. You could also use a special router bit called a lock miter bit but that will not work on plywood and I think you need a different bit for different thicknesses of wood (and they are not cheap).


                            I do have 2 locking miter bits( one for 1/2 and 3/4). I have not had very good luck using them with MDF. Real wood seems to work better with locking miter bits.
                            On the cheap diy. That is my motto - www.hifiposse.com

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Millstonemike View Post

                              i didn't get that. Please explain further.
                              Here you go

                              http://www.finewoodworking.com/2006/...-a-miter-gauge
                              John H

                              Synergy Horn, SLS-85, BMR-3L, Mini-TL, BR-2, Titan OB, B452, Udique, Vultus, Latus1, Seriatim, Aperivox,Pencil Tower

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