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SevenSixTwo - InDIYana 2018 Coax Design

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  • augerpro
    replied
    Interesting driver selection! Where did you come across the Celestions? I have a soft spot for good coaxes. I heard the TAD Model 1 a number of years at RMAF and if was a REALLY nice sounding speaker.

    Leave a comment:


  • KEtheredge87
    replied
    Originally posted by Wolf View Post
    Just me- but wouldn't the woofer look better with the mounts rotated 30 degrees? This way the coax and woofer both have 2 screws at top and bottom. Again- Just me...

    Later,
    Wolf
    Ya know what... I think you're right! I did the same bolt pattern on the Swope towers I built a few years back and I love that look. Mark this current silliness up to being pencil happy and making too many 45 degree lines in all the wrong places. Thanks for the suggestion bud!

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  • Wolf
    replied
    Just me- but wouldn't the woofer look better with the mounts rotated 30 degrees? This way the coax and woofer both have 2 screws at top and bottom. Again- Just me...

    Later,
    Wolf

    Leave a comment:


  • KEtheredge87
    replied
    Originally posted by Derekj View Post

    Too many mounting tabs for the woofer on the back of the baffle
    Winner, winner, chicken dinner!

    I only figured this out AFTER I dropped the Esoteric woofer into place to check the flush mount. Seems I got a bit too pencil-happy when I was making 45 deg lines with my combination square. That worked out great for the Celestion driver... but not so much for the Dayton. This baffle is still plenty serviceable, and the extra thick 1.25" baffle has enough meat on the areas that I shouldn't have chamfered to accept a standard issue wood screw no-problems.

    That said.. I'm gonna have to go buy an el-basico plastic protractor from the store if I want to draw in the proper 30 degree lines on the next ones!

    This is why we practice!

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  • Derekj
    replied
    Originally posted by KEtheredge87 View Post
    .

    Now the real question... can anybody see where I goofed up?
    Too many mounting tabs for the woofer on the back of the baffle

    Leave a comment:


  • KEtheredge87
    replied
    Originally posted by Navy Guy View Post
    Somehow I missed this when you first posted. I really like the aesthetics you picked. The Esoteric woofers are amazing so you should have plenty of clean bass.
    Thanks Kerry!

    There's been a lot of activity on the forum lately. I figure it's really easy to miss posts when there's so much going on. Before I started this thread I saw your CSS P215 cabinet on Facebook and was really wondering how you guys got that fancy aluminum framing around the walnut veneer side panels. I'm hoping this looks at least half as good as that!

    Leave a comment:


  • Navy Guy
    replied
    Somehow I missed this when you first posted. I really like the aesthetics you picked. The Esoteric woofers are amazing so you should have plenty of clean bass.

    Leave a comment:


  • KEtheredge87
    replied
    Alright everyone, Time for an update on Saturday and Sunday's efforts.

    Saturday was spent in CAD and playing with the drivers to make sure I was making the right baffle design choices and confirming my mounting hardware. It's a good thing I checked too. The Celestion FTX0617 is a beefy driver with a big honkin' magnet. The mounting slots it comes with *could* squeak by with a #8 screw, but are really sized for a #10. Also, my stash of black oxide button head machine screws were only 1" long, which wouldn't quite work for my 1.25" thick front baffles. So, off to "The 'Zon", as Gordy calls it I ordered a box of 8-32 x 1.5" and 10-24 x 1.5" black oxide button head machine screws and the appropriate EZ-lok threaded inserts to go with them. The Dayton Esoteric ES180tia woofer can only take 8-32 screws, so I hope things don't look too funny with the smaller screws on the larger diameter driver!

    Once the mounting hardware bits were settled, I knew I was going to need to chamfer the inside face of the front baffle to let these drivers breathe, so I trial and error'ed my way into modeling 5/8" x 5/8" (45 deg) chamfers between the mounting holes on the baffle. Again... I'm glad I modeled and thought before cutting wood, as the cabinet design and driver locations only allowed 5/8" chamfers on the sides and top of the Celestion driver. Ii could only squeeze a 1/4" chamfer on the bottom side so that I didn't interfere with the MT chamber bottom panel's glue line at the front baffle.

    Sunday was a shop day, taking my hodge-podge of mental and written notes to the garage for a test baffle construction. I used a 1/16" drill bit to pilot the locations for mounting hardware on both drivers. This was done first so that I didn't have to guess where my lines and marks were after the router had cut them away. Then I screwed the FTX0617 coax face down to the baffle so I could line up the flush mounting template and secure it with double sided tape. That method worked well, as I wasn't satisfied I could trust my remaining lines on the template itself.

    After all the setup, it was relatively quick work with a flush cutting template bit for the FTX0617's driver recess, and a jasper jig for everything else. Biggest hassle was working around my dust collection hose every time I ran the router in a circle!

    For the recesses, I used a 6mm target depth for both drivers. I think this worked out well, as the Esoteric driver sat a bit proud of the baffle without any screws to compress the included gasket, while the Celestion driver sat a bit under the line with no gasket to boost it up.

    On the back side of the baffles, I had compassed out some 5/8" OD circles at each 1/16" pilot hole from earlier in the day. This was my reference mark to leave enough uncut material for the threaded inserts to use later. I chucked up my 45 deg chamfer bit and used some scraps with 5/8" and 1/4" lines scribed on them to set my chamfer depth. I added 5/8" chamfers everywhere except the bottom side of the celestion's recess, which got the 1/4" as mentioned above.

    Overall, I think the construction method is sound, and should be ready to proceed to the real baffles.

    Now the real question... can anybody see where I goofed up?

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  • KEtheredge87
    replied
    Originally posted by scottvalentin View Post
    That figured maple will look really cool!! Great work so far Keith, carry on!
    Thank you Scott! Another update - inbound!

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  • scottvalentin
    replied
    That figured maple will look really cool!! Great work so far Keith, carry on!

    Leave a comment:


  • KEtheredge87
    replied
    Originally posted by 4thtry View Post
    Very nice project. Look forward to hearing these in April
    Thanks Bill! I'm excited to see your work as well. It's been fun following along! -- Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • 4thtry
    replied
    Very nice project. Look forward to hearing these in April

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  • KEtheredge87
    replied
    Originally posted by marvin View Post
    Great work! Those look like a perfect fit. Only concern is will there be enough room for finish between the speaker driver and the baffle?
    Thanks Marvin I think there should be enough room. Generally I just put some matte black paint on the MDF in those cavities to blend in with the driver's frame. This time around I have some plans to spray some satin black on these cabinets AFTER the veneer goes on, which would achieve the same effect without an additional painting step afterward.. I will be masking the wholly bejeezus out of the veneered sections too. I don't care how many rolls of delicate painters tape I use! Of course, that's just the plan right now. If I get further and find a roadblock, I may have to re-evaluate that painting plan.

    Leave a comment:


  • marvin
    replied
    Great work! Those look like a perfect fit...too perfect--will there be enough room for finish between the speaker driver and the baffle?

    Leave a comment:


  • KEtheredge87
    replied
    Hello again everyone,

    Today I was able to sketch out the driver and slot port locations on my front baffles, as well as create my flush mounting template for the Celestion driver. Following Javad's handy instructions (Thanks again bud! JavadS) I created a flush mounting template that has just enough room to squeeze the frame into place while having zero play.

    Of course, I overcomplicated things... I really wanted to make sure I had the alignment lines on the final template in the right spot. I drew out the center point and lines for vertical, horizontal, and 45 degrees on the first template (but not the second). I spent way more time and mental energy trying to create reference lines on the second template than was needed. Heck, I even brought the driver back into the frame and used 1/4" router bits to make sure I had things evenly spaced all the way around. What dawned on me after I finished the template successfully (good snug fit) was that I could just position the driver where I wanted on the actual baffle, drill two screw holes to secure the driver face down, then attach the template on top of the driver. All of that work just to realize I didn't need to do any of it after all. Oh well. Live and learn!

    Tomorrow I plan to cut my baffles for flush mounts and make woofer relief chamfers on the back side. Having a 1.25" baffle makes me think I can get away with one continuous chamfer instead of a series of smaller chamfer notches. That will be a game time decision looking at the mounting hardware and the thickness at those points.

    Soon we'll get to actual glue ups and box construction I'm really intrigued to get these boxes to a state where I can tune the slot port. First time I've ever done one. Relying heavily on BassBox Pro for that, so we'll see how close we actually get to the desired tuning!

    Thanks for following along!

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