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Who uses extension cord for speaker wire?

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  • #16
    Originally posted by Chris Roemer View Post
    I plead ignorance . . . where is this Al speaker wire you speak of? I thought everything I bought was copper (if not OFC).
    I use OLD ext. cords, but beware of oxidation on old cords. I have seen it where one conductor looks good, while another is green, not just on the ends, either.
    Projects:

    Breezy Monitors: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...reezy-monitors
    transcenD: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...5035-transcend
    Summits: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh...75-The-Summits
    References: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh...-My-References
    Vintage Style 2-way: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh...-vintage-2-way

    Comment


    • #17
      I like the 2-wire 12 gage SJ cable from PE, I think it's Carol. I like the Carol SJ because it's round and flexible. I've spruced it up with cable pants, heat shrink and Techflex. I bought some cheaper SJ type of wire, its still copper but the lack of flexibility made it a PITA to use.
      John H

      Synergy Horn, SLS-85, BMR-3L, Mini-TL, BR-2, Titan OB, B452, Udique, Vultus, Latus1, Seriatim, Aperivox,Pencil Tower

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      • #18
        I usually just use 16 GA "lamp cord" from HD, it's cheap & works great.

        https://www.homedepot.com/p/Cerrowir...01AR/202564758

        ​A friend & I once set up a blind comparison for each other between this and some $10/ft boutique speaker cable he fell sucker to. Neither of us could hear a lick of difference.

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        • #19
          I had to Google SJ cord.
          Are there any advantages (if any) over the Monoprice or Mediabridge 2 conductor in-wall speaker wire (more flexible, better insulation, etc.)?

          Comment


          • #20
            Once bought speaker wire from an audio shop for in wall install. It all oxidized and had to be repulled 5 yrs later.
            Measured fancy speaker wires and found several of them capacitive
            Measured wire marketed for speakers with twin lead construction and a small gap between conductors: the gap makes it inductive, shows up in audio band

            I always use a good quality all copper from home depot off the spool, best measuring and reliable stuff around, sounds like nothing, easy to work with

            Comment


            • #21
              Originally posted by fpitas View Post
              I think the end terminations are far more important than the particular wire, as long as the wire is sufficiently low resistance. I solder ring terminals or spade terminals to the wire, and also use a copper crush washer at the binding posts. I use posts that are all-metal and can be wrenched down. Another good solution is a Speakon connector.
              ​Agreed. I use Speakon connectors exclusively now when building the occasional speaker.
              Brian Steele
              www.diysubwoofers.org

              Comment


              • #22
                Originally posted by dynamo View Post
                Sorry, should have addressed the 10ga question right away. Ideally I wanted 12ga as a cover-all size that would never leave me wanting, but they only make this in a12/3. The four conductor only comes in 10ga from what I can tell. Super overkill of course, but if I got it it would likely be repourposed to sub duty if I ever got a crown and big sub.. my general questions lie more in the general ideas and not so much the size.
                If you want the heavy duty SJO look/feel/durability, then here's some numbers to look into from Coleman cable:

                Catalog number (AWG/# wires)
                23226 (16/2)
                23426 (16/4)
                23227 (14/2)
                23427 (14/4)
                23228 (12/2)
                23428 (12/4)

                It's Seoprene jacketed and is pretty flexible IMO.

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                • #23
                  Haven't noticed any of the 16ga. extension cord ... cough ... speaker cable being CCA. Speaker wire at our local hardware store is another story, it's all CCA. Also found 'bell wire' at the local hardware store to work fine, it's solid core and stiff though, so it can be a bit of a bear to run but works good internally. I've had the cheap speaker wire turn green after a couple years of service, so far, knock on wood, none of the extension cord has turned.

                  Might get hammered for this, but I do think there is a difference in the sound of some speaker wire, but admit, in the grand scheme of things, it's a very, very small difference. Most of my projects are wired with 16ga. extension cord, the 'not a khanspire ...' are wired with the solid core 'bell wire', and the NHT's and Apogees are generally wired with Audioquest, or my homebrew braided cat5 cable.

                  This is a smaller pair of the diy braided cables mated to the Dayton 120/PicoNeos for boy's dorm room.

                  Click image for larger version

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                  http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...khanspires-but
                  http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...pico-neo-build
                  http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...ensation-build

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                  • #24
                    I've used extension cords, they work fine albeit they look a bit redneck if not dressed up. I just tin the ends or use banana plugs.
                    My modest builds:
                    Armadillo TM, A.K.A. Lil' Dillo
                    Tarkus/Armadillo build #2
                    Armadillo Center Channel
                    Au-Rock-O Sub
                    Tarkus
                    Staining MDF tutorial

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      I've also experimented with random scraps I pick up on job sites. This stuff actually works quite well for short runs.
                      My modest builds:
                      Armadillo TM, A.K.A. Lil' Dillo
                      Tarkus/Armadillo build #2
                      Armadillo Center Channel
                      Au-Rock-O Sub
                      Tarkus
                      Staining MDF tutorial

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Serious question - has anyone tried copper tubing as wire? I think it would make a cool "Steampunk" kind of build...
                        Brian Steele
                        www.diysubwoofers.org

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Originally posted by DDF View Post
                          Once bought speaker wire from an audio shop for in wall install. It all oxidized and had to be repulled 5 yrs later.
                          Measured fancy speaker wires and found several of them capacitive
                          Measured wire marketed for speakers with twin lead construction and a small gap between conductors: the gap makes it inductive, shows up in audio band

                          I always use a good quality all copper from home depot off the spool, best measuring and reliable stuff around, sounds like nothing, easy to work with
                          What brand was the inwall wire? I had some Tributaries stuff a while back that I felt oxidized sooner and more than it should have. I think it was even supposed to be five-nines copper.
                          Projects:

                          Breezy Monitors: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...reezy-monitors
                          transcenD: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...5035-transcend
                          Summits: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh...75-The-Summits
                          References: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh...-My-References
                          Vintage Style 2-way: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh...-vintage-2-way

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Originally posted by Kornbread View Post
                            Might get hammered for this, but I do think there is a difference in the sound of some speaker wire, but admit, in the grand scheme of things, it's a very, very small difference.
                            I want to avoid a get the popcorn type thread, but I agree. I have eventually come to the logical conclusion that this is likely just based on differences in things like the cable’s capacitance and inductance, as well as tarnish and corrosion. I think so many “audiophile” cables “lift the veil” because they are high capacitance and tilted toward bright and forward because of it.

                            Funny how there is so much preaching and money spent in the audiophile world to keep things true to the recording but the fancy cables are counterproductive to that goal..

                            I am actually replacing some fancy-ish cables I got a great deal on about 10-15 years ago. I’m replacing them because I sense they are artificially bright likely due to capacitance. No way to measure them but a hunch. So I’m upgrading to menards wire
                            Projects:

                            Breezy Monitors: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...reezy-monitors
                            transcenD: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...5035-transcend
                            Summits: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh...75-The-Summits
                            References: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh...-My-References
                            Vintage Style 2-way: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh...-vintage-2-way

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Fairly easy to DATS a 50' hunk of speaker wire for reactive properties (IF you have one).

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Originally posted by dynamo View Post

                                What brand was the inwall wire? I had some Tributaries stuff a while back that I felt oxidized sooner and more than it should have. I think it was even supposed to be five-nines copper.
                                Local audio shop's brand, but no idea who made it for them. Got a "good deal" at a couple bucks a foot. Bought it as much for the jacket which was flame retardant and supposedly formulated for easy pull in wall cavities. I more and more gravitate towards Home Depot and Costco for allot of different things. Given their volumes, any faulty product would be a huge headache and their stuff just seems more reliable IME.

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