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Modeling the UM10-22

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  • Modeling the UM10-22

    This all started with trying to recreate the Swope Sub using the Ulitmax 10" as a replacement for the HiVi Sp10. That is what I have now, in a 30L box with a 3"x25" port powered by the BASH300. My listening / view location has changed and I am going to try and build my sub in to the TV stand / equipment rack. That leaves me with me limited amount of space that I am working with. max overall dimensions 12"h x24"w x18"d. that gives me about 1.7 net cf with a 1x10" slot port 24"long. Basically the exact recommendations on the spec sheet on PEs website.

    When I called and tried to confirm with their Tech support, I was told that would make a lot of port noise and I need a 2.25cf enclosure with a 1.5"x10.5" slot port that it 24" long. Well, that's not not going to fit, so I think I have 2 options.

    1) Rebuild the the Swope design again since that is what I currently have and I have no issues with it.
    2) Go with Dayton Audio's recommended design with a larger enclosure and a longer port. BTW, why have 2 sets of recommended enclosures that PE support say neither is optimal? One says 1.75 net cf with a 1x10 slot port 24" long which gives an f3 of 23Hz, the other is BassBox Pro 6 that recommends a vented 1.55cf with an f3 of 22Hz. But when you talk with Tech support about the volume of the vent, they say it's not optimal!

    This will be crossed between 80-100Hz to a sealed compact 2 way in a 3.1 system used for both HT and movies.

  • #2
    As you probably know, your 3"id port only has an X-sect. of 7 sq.in. IMO only a 3" "Precision Port" (or a DIY effort w/hugely flaired/rounded ends) would adequately help deter chuffing.
    Your current (Swope-ish) sub has 10 sq.in. PE's rec. is about 15 sq.in.
    I think if you can run the slot exit out away from your listening position (maybe out the back) AND cut at least a 1/2" roundover (router bit) on the vent exit, you should be OK.
    Heck, I think most movie LFEs might actually benefit from a little chuffing (to "enhance" whatever it is that's making the 20Hz effect) anyhow.

    WinISD shows 108 fps @ 22Hz @ 300w RMS @ something close to 105dB. That's (barely) under Mach 0.1.

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    • #3
      Thanks Chris. I can make the port 1x8" if that would help. I have been told that port ratio isn't exact and 1:8. or 1:10 won't make that much difference. I have a 1/2" and a 3/4" roundover I can use on the vent exit.

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      • #4
        I think sq. area is more important than that aspect ratio thing. Your 1x10 x24" on 1.7 cf (w/about [email protected] B300 boost) does have a slight "lift" near 30Hz (mostly due to that amp's mild boost), but THAT never hurt anything. Compared to my slot-ported HiVi SP10 build, you've got about 3Hz lower reach (F3), and it's up +9dB (over mine) at 20Hz. I think you'll like it.

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        • #5
          Go passive radiator and never look back. WinISD Pro can model it, and it's free.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by guitar maestro View Post
            Go passive radiator and never look back. WinISD Pro can model it, and it's free.
            That was also recommended by PE tech support, but the location of this sub makes it difficult to incorporate.

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