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My first build - Classix 2.5

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  • My first build - Classix 2.5

    I am starting my first build of the Classix 2.5 and was wondering if someone can check my cart contents for me.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.

  • #2
    Screws for driver mounting, cabinet feet, wire, solder? Looks like everything is there.

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    • #3
      Do you have binding posts and either polyfill or Acoustastuff? Also a swear box for those "uh oh" moments.

      These should sound great!

      And when you're connecting things up, remember that the tweeters are connected with reverse polarity; good luck with the build

      Geoff

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      • #4
        Jeff,

        I am going to use machine screws and T nuts to attach the drivers and I will get those locally. I have some speaker wire for wiring inside the cabinets. I am going to use this solder if you think it will work OK.

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        • #5
          Geoff,

          I have added the binding posts to my cart. I think I have enough egg crate foam and polyfill left over from another non-speaker project that I did, so I should be OK on those.

          Thanks for the tip on the tweeter, I hadn't noticed that before.

          What about the crossover components, do those look like all of the correct parts and pieces?

          Thanks,

          Richard

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          • #6
            Sure. What'cha doin' w/that tiny 0.10uF cap?
            PE DOES carry cheaper 10w resistors. I like 'em 'cause they don't have the gold plating on the leads (which tends to break and fall off when bent).

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            • #7
              Yeah I caught that one after I made that first post.

              This is the one I was going to order - PE 027-360.
              100uF 100V Electrolytic Non-Polarized Crossover Capacitor

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Jakes_dad View Post
                Jeff,

                I am going to use machine screws and T nuts to attach the drivers and I will get those locally. I have some speaker wire for wiring inside the cabinets. I am going to use this solder if you think it will work OK.
                That solder should work fine.

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                • #9
                  First I want to thank everyone for helping me out so far.

                  I have also attached a drawing of my crossover layout and I would appreciate it if anyone could check it for me.

                  Thanks again,

                  Richard

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Jakes_dad View Post
                    First I want to thank everyone for helping me out so far.

                    I have also attached a drawing of my crossover layout and I would appreciate it if anyone could check it for me.

                    Thanks again,

                    Richard
                    The short answer is 'I don't know' - this is because I have great difficulty reading those sorts of drawings.

                    What I do is physically get the parts, and in this case, Paul's diagram, and lay them out on a large piece of paper so that they look like his circuit diagram. I then write the inputs, plus and minus etc on the paper next to the wires, eg 'woofer out +".

                    That way, I can't really go wrong. I can then shrink the layout to fit the boards, which I make from Masonite. It means that I have to split the input + and - from the binding post into two but that's OK.

                    I make two boards, because I'm an electronics illiterate: one for the high pass and one for the low pass. It looks messy, sloppy and unprofessional, but they're out of sight anyway and it might make troubleshooting easier.

                    Hope this helps but sorry I can't answer your question directly

                    Geoff

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                    • #11
                      Your drawing looks good.

                      AFA the physical layout goes, even though you've got the 2 largest coils oriented properly (90* angles), I'd (personally) feel better with some more space between them. Even if you could slide the 2 big caps to the left, and drop the 0.90mH in THERE - which would probably then make it better for the little coil to stand up (again, 90* thing).

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Chris Roemer View Post
                        Your drawing looks good.

                        AFA the physical layout goes, even though you've got the 2 largest coils oriented properly (90* angles), I'd (personally) feel better with some more space between them. Even if you could slide the 2 big caps to the left, and drop the 0.90mH in THERE - which would probably then make it better for the little coil to stand up (again, 90* thing).

                        Chris,

                        Maybe I didn't drink enough coffee this morning, but I am having a hard time visualizing what you mean by "slide the 2 big caps to the left, and drop the 0.90mH in THERE - which would probably then make it better for the little coil to stand up".

                        I revised the drawing to move the 2.0mh coil to the other end of the board, would that be OK?


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                        • #13
                          Yes. Looks good to me.

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