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Midwest Audio Fest

It’s that time audio enthusiasts!

Registration for the 2019 Speaker Design Competition is now open! Visit midwestaudiofest.com for details and to list your speaker project.
We are excited to see all returning participants, and look forward to meeting some new designers this year, as well!

Be sure your plans include a visit to the Parts Express Tent Sale for the lowest prices of the year, and the Audio Swap Meet where you can buy and trade with other audio fans.

We hope to see you this summer!

Vivian and Jill
2 of 2 < >

Midwest Audio Fest

It’s that time audio enthusiasts! Registration for the 2019 Speaker Design Competition is now open! Visit midwestaudiofest.com for details and to list your speaker project. We are excited to see all returning participants, and look forward to meeting some new designers this year, as well! Be sure your plans include a visit to the Parts Express Tent Sale for the lowest prices of the year, and the Audio Swap Meet where you can buy and trade with other audio fans. We hope to see you this summer! Vivian and Jill
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The Mystiques - Build Thread

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  • Kevin K.
    replied
    This picture is right after sanding the first of several coats of primer required. My preference is the Evercoat G2 polyester primer. Stuff builds well and sands even better. Only drawback is the fact that it is a catalyzed primer. Once you mix it, get it sprayed and out of the gun as quickly as possible. Don't leave it sitting in the gun afterwards or plan on spending the next hour or more cleaning the gun back up.

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    Front view after the second coat of primer

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    Side view after the second coat of primer. Everything is starting to cover, no sign of the laminations any more. Three coats may get the job done, I'll have to see how these turn out after sanding this second coat.

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    This is where I've left off. Purchased the 3M 2216 adhesive, spread a layer of it on the back side of the carbon fiber and used the vacuum bag to press it onto the piece of 1/4" MDF. Sat in the bag overnight. Manufacturers recommendation is 8-12 hours under clamping pressure. Will take a shot at cutting this stuff this evening or tomorrow night. Stay tuned.

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  • Kevin K.
    replied
    If you've been following along, you'll remember the tear out issue I had on the tops due to cutting them to a razor edge. Next couple of pics will demonstrate how they were repaired. The first pic shows the tear out that need the fix.

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    Made a patch paste using the same epoxy resin I've glued the cabinets together with. Added a product called Cab-O-Sil until it reached a peanut butter consistency. The Cab-O-Sil is a fumed silica thickener that can be mixed into an epoxy to help in applying it to vertical surfaces. A word of caution though, it's bad news stuff if you breath it into your lungs. This stuff is very fine and can become airborne with just the slightest motion. Wear a dust mask at minimum, respirator would be best.

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    Pic after applying the patch paste.

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    Didn't mix quite enough of the silica into the patch material and was still getting a little sag. Applied a piece of masking tape over it to hold it in place until the next morning. Tape peels right off without a problem afterwards.

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  • Kevin K.
    replied
    Sorry fellas, I'm running a little behind on posting this last update. Left off needing to get the 3/4" Sonic Barrier damping cut for the cabs. Since none of the pieces for this cabinet were straight, I cut templates out of 1/8" tempered hardboard

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    The best way I've found to cut this damping material is on a bandsaw with a 14 tooth blade. Whether it's straight cuts or angled (the piece in the next pic has two sides cut at 20 degrees), it cuts very clean on the bandsaw. A hot knife works pretty well also but you have to deal with the smoke coming from the burnt foam.

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    I like the hollow punches for the opening around the binding post. Used a 5/8" punch which leaves me just enough room for the socket to tighten the binding post nuts.

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    Ready to move forward with gluing the remainder of the cabinet together now.

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    Leave a comment:


  • KEtheredge87
    replied
    Holy Carbon Fiber, Batman! I love this look!!!
    Takes me back to my grad school days making hand-layup uni-directional carbon fiber panels

    Leave a comment:


  • Kevin K.
    replied
    Guess what just showed up....yep, my mouth is drooling. At first I was like "What the ......, scratches all over this stuff. Don't tell me I just paid $200 bucks for this!" Then I saw the little sticker in the corner, "Peel back the protective coating", sigh...

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    Trust me, the camera on this phone is doing this stuff no justice, it looks freakin awesome!

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    The sheen on this stuff is crazy too. Check out the reflection of the woofer in the next pic.

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    I'm STOKED! Can't wait to get the cabinets painted and this stuff installed!

    Leave a comment:


  • Kevin K.
    replied
    Thank you Sir, hope you find some of the tips useful someday.

    Leave a comment:


  • wogg
    replied
    These are going to be freakin' gorgeous.* Excellent work as always Kevin.

    Also... your tips are super!

    Leave a comment:


  • Kevin K.
    replied
    Last picture from this weekends progress. Epoxied the braces, sidewalls and rear baffle together. Next step will be cutting the 3/4" Sonic Barrier damping for the top, bottom, and rear of the cabinet.

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    Tracking number shows the Carbon Fiber will land today, super stoked about that!

    Leave a comment:


  • Kevin K.
    replied
    Round 4: Sorry for the delay guys, had a little trouble with the latest update to the Forum software. This last weekend's progress. Baffles are cut and the process of gluing all the pieces of the jigsaw puzzle together has started.

    Front and rear of the Baffles:

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    Wanted a sneak peak of how the drivers and port would look together:

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    Baffle attached to the cabinet. Starting to look like the real deal now.

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    A quick tip. Other than it's obvious uses (floor wax, wood polish), Johnson's wax makes a great release agent to prevent glue or epoxy from sticking to cauls, apply a couple of coats and you're good to go. Works great on clamps too. Nothing sticks to this stuff.

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    Couple of more tips. Ever tried clamping curved surfaces only to have your clamps squirt off as you apply pressure? Cut some pieces of 60 grit sandpaper, fold them with the grit out and the clamps have something to bite with afterwards. Second tip in this photo, when using epoxy to glue up a cabinet, wipe off the excess on the outside with a paper towel soaked in acetone or lacquer thinner. The epoxy sands at a different rate than the MDF and it's easy to cut grooves in the MDF if you're not careful. Not much sanding required this way.

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  • Kevin K.
    replied
    Originally posted by randyohoh View Post
    Great job at overcoming the design obstacles and arriving at a very cool shape.These are very unique and will sound excellent.
    Thanks Randy!

    Leave a comment:


  • randyohoh
    replied
    Great job at overcoming the design obstacles and arriving at a very cool shape.These are very unique and will sound excellent.

    Leave a comment:


  • Kevin K.
    replied
    Round 3: Not a lot of new pics to update from the third weekend guys. Spent the majority of the weekend catching the second cabinet up to the first cabinet. Cut the second pair of sidewalls, two tops, and another set of braces. Was hoping to get the bottoms done but fell short of getting those started. Will attempt to get the bottoms finished this week and get started on the baffles next weekend.

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    Went with dual binding post for this pair which leaves the option to bi-amp if I choose and makes working on the crossovers from outside the enclosure easier. Thanks for following along.

    Leave a comment:


  • Kevin K.
    replied
    Originally posted by tomzarbo View Post
    They're beautiful, even just in raw MDF. And the precision with which everything fits together is pretty cool too.
    ... and that must be one heck of a spinner and bit... that thing really MOVES! Cool videos.
    TomZ
    Thanks Tom. I'm not really taking advantage of all the machine is capable of doing and these videos are probably kinda boring. Our CNC software just went through a major update and I'm still trying to get familiar with some of the new operation options, they did away with some of my favs for some reason so I suspect some of the newer ones are supposed to be more efficient. Need some time to learn the new stuff but in the mean time am just doing what I need to get by.

    Leave a comment:


  • Kevin K.
    replied
    Originally posted by Squidspeak View Post

    ​Kevin, what is brand/type of epoxy laminating resin. I mostly use West Systems for that type of bond. Also I would coat the outside of cab to prevent the edge lift,
    ​a lot more work but eliminates the issue. I laminated MDF to BB then kerfed it and bent it in a jig so I coated the outside wall with epoxy to prevent splitting and
    lifting of the grain.
    This is what I'm currently using but will switching over to the 605 version in the future, they are both very similar. The 605 is more economical and also available in more sizes (quart, 1.5 gallon, 5-gallon units).

    https://www.freemansupply.com/produc...g-system-white

    I've had pretty good luck with the Evercoat Featherfill G2 polyester primer when surfacing MDF. After a couple of coats, you have a very good base to work with and it's hard as a rock.

    Leave a comment:


  • tomzarbo
    replied
    They're beautiful, even just in raw MDF. And the precision with which everything fits together is pretty cool too.
    ... and that must be one heck of a spinner and bit... that thing really MOVES! Cool videos.
    TomZ

    Leave a comment:

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