Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

New Paul C design

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • New Paul C design

    Just saw this https://sites.google.com/site/undefinition/isetta looks good! The Fountek's are on sale too

  • #2

    Comment


    • #3
      Nice, that ought to pretty much pound the stuffing out of most other table radios. Maybe some little rubber feet on the bottom would be in order.
      TomZ
      *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
      *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF *Cello's Speaker Project Page

      *Building the "Micro-B 2.1 Plate Amplifier -- Part 1 * Part 2 * Part 3 * Part 4 * * Part 5 'Review' * -- Assembly Instructions PDF

      Comment


      • #4
        I wish this design would have came out a few months sooner. Around Christmas time, I built a boombox for the lady to listen to music when she's tinkering around the house and kitchen. I used the same woofer with the Dayton DW3 full range drivers. It was essentially a Voxel Subwoofer and Minion speakers integrated together. I can vouch for the woofer pounding and putting out more bass than any other table radios. Sounds 1000x better than the Bose Soundlink that we replaced.

        Attached Files

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Thucker View Post
          I wish this design would have came out a few months sooner.
          It's been rolling around Paul's head since late 2012 when he first proposed to me the W5 coupled with the Sprites for a 2.1 boombox.

          I never built it. In the end, the Tangband wasn't going to give me the output I needed. My boombox is dedicated to beach dance party duty next to the Atlantic.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Millstonemike View Post

            It's been rolling around Paul's head since late 2012 when he first proposed to me the W5 coupled with the Sprites for a 2.1 boombox.
            This is true. I did try the ND90s, but they lost out to the Fountek FE85. Also, the Founteks have the advantages of being easier to mount, and cheaper.
            Isn't it about time we started answering rhetorical questions?

            Paul Carmody's DIY Audio Projects
            Twitter: @undefinition1

            Comment


            • #7
              cool build and I like that it's named after a mini car

              I did something similar -- the dayton 6.5" subwoofer as sub with Quarks as the L + R. All powered by a 2.1 bluetooth amp from [email protected]

              I'll have to add an Isetta to my future build list

              Comment


              • #8
                Looks really interesting, of course.  I assume from the crossover that the woofer runs full range, is that right?

                Thanks

                Geoff

                Comment


                • #9
                  I think I've just answered my own question after putting my brain into gear and reading Paul's write up: the woofer runs from the sub woofer out on the amp, which is why you need a 2.1, is that right?

                  Geoff

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Maybe I need to finally buy this 2.1 amp

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Paul,

                      One suggestion about using Sketchup: Under the "Camera" menu, select "Perspective" to give your box a more natural look. The "Parallel Projection" selection looks skewed and disproportional. Great design!

                      Hong

                      Click image for larger version

Name:	Parallel Projection VS Perspective.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	51.9 KB
ID:	1373213
                      Some people are addicted to Vicodin. I'm addicted to speaker building.

                      The Chorales - Usher 8945A/Vifa XT25TG Build
                      ESP Project 101 Lateral MOSFET Amplifier
                      LM4780 Parallel Chipamp
                      Sonata Soundbar Project
                      The Renditions - Active/Passive Towers

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I think traditionally (in drafting) that "Perspective" view was called Orthographic, and was used because you could take measurements directly off of line lengths (there was no perspective "distortion").

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Jeff.... I have the same 2.1 plate amp. Its based on the TPA3118. Pretty good stuff. It was used to power the W6-1139SIF and a pair of RS100-8's all internal in a 2.1 boombox. I then replaced it with a newer version which has 4.2 Bluetooth and is based on the TPA3116. 

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Thucker... I've been searching for a 2.1 build based on the Voxel and the Minions / Sprite to fit in a small form factor.. Your build looks pretty neat. I know the Tang Band 1053's / Dayton DW3's rebadged are pretty good drivers. I have a pair of Minirigs which I believe use the same driver. The very top end is a bit directional though.

                            Paul... Just last week I've started putting together a Sprite with tweeter project. Still tinkling along with it. The tweeter adds so much to the sound and the top end is heard off axis much better now. I still have to put it together as I've been testing it with the Sprite box I'd built last year. The Isetta again makes me want to hold on and maybe convert it to a Voxel / Isetta box with the ND90's and tweeter in a sealed box for a 2.1 set up. I could use the 2.1 TPA3118 based plate amp I have lying with me (the one in the pics above posted by Jeff). 

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by bsl100 View Post
                              Thucker... I could use the 2.1 TPA3118 based plate amp I have lying with me (the one in the pics above posted by Jeff). 
                              Use that amp you have. The only difference between the TPA3116 and the TPS3118 is the method of heat dissipation, and thus, the thermal limitation rating. The "6" uses heat sinks on top of the chip. The "8" uses the PCB's ground plane (cheaper to assemble). Hence the "6" gets the 2 x 50 W (or 1 x 100 W) rating and the "8" gets 2 x 30 W (or 1 x 60 W) rating.

                              Those thermal limitations are based on a sine wave as the signal (it's the only way to get consistent amp ratings). However, music is never as power dense as a sine wave, maybe 1/2 to 1/3 as dense from my casual observations. Powering the the amp at 24 V, you'll get a nominal 66 W into the W5 (or W6) and 33 W into each 8 ohm L & R drivers.So if the PCB is well ventilated in the main woofer enclosure (instead of a tiny separate chamber) you should be good to go - the chip can handle it.

                              The only caveat is the TPA 3118 based amp has 25 V PS bypass capacitors. A 24 V PS is close to those capacitors' max ratings. But I've never seen a 22 V PS "brick". Many amps have a reverse polarity protection diode on the DC input. That would reduce the voltage seen by the caps to 23.5 V. But I can't see that from the pics I seen online. In the end, it all depends on the quality of the caps on the PCB to use a 24 V PS. But a spare ~19 V laptop PS will do nicely albeit with less head room when you crank it up.

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X