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Mr Bagby's Tribute and Universal Woofer Build

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  • #16
    Yes you need clamps that's for sure.

    Anyone spot the "hidden clamp"? It's in plain site.¬*
    First Build: Gloss Red Tarkus

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    • #17
      What sub did you use? And did you worry about maintaining the baffle of the original design?¬*

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      • #18
        Originally posted by xsilverjag View Post
        What sub did you use? And did you worry about maintaining the baffle of the original design?¬*
        This one:

        Click image for larger version

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        It's a thing of beauty and if my wife catches me touching it again she won't be pleased.

        As far as the baffle dimensions go, yes I did worry; a lot. However, in the end I wanted a single cabinet. From what I read on different posts, the baffle size was flexible from 6.5" to 8.5" or so. I put the faceted face at 8.5, and probably around 11" at the bottom of the midrange (and I may narrow that a bit more).

        I would be interested in learning what effect this has theoretically and/or practically (the facets).¬*


        ¬*
        First Build: Gloss Red Tarkus

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        • #19
          Originally posted by Stevers View Post
          Yes you need clamps that's for sure.

          Anyone spot the "hidden clamp"? It's in plain site.¬*
          Let me guess, is it the boards laying on the bench top on either side of the cabinet? I can't see the wedges, but that's all I could see.

          Do I win a Bessey clamp? LOL

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          • #20
            Winna Winna Chicken Dinner!

            Yes, there is a bench dog on the left hand side providing a stop and the right hand side there is a tail vise squishing the sides together.
            First Build: Gloss Red Tarkus

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            • #21
              Yesterday I glued up the front baffles. Each baffle is three layers of 3/4" Baltic Birch. They are a bit over-sized so that I have some wiggle room during the glue up.

              I did all the boards at once and used plastic wrap between the two faces I didn't want glue to touch. Hint: don't take the wrap down to your workshop at lunchtime while your spouse is making lunch... Oh, and returning it with glue on the box - not good either.

              Below is a mesmerizing photo of clamps applying forces to boards. Actually, I figured there is over 10 tons of force there. Probably creating diamonds as I wait.
              Click image for larger version

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ID:	1374962Today I will triple check the cabinet width and height and then triple measure the baffles and then trim them to size - actually, I'll chicken out and leave a 1/16th extra all around that I'll plane down later.

              ¬*
              First Build: Gloss Red Tarkus

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              • #22
                The slabs for the baffles turned out well. One of them has a slight bow in it, but that was in the plywood to begin with. I thought I had oriented them so the bow was to the middle but apparently not. You can see in one of the pics (the dado one) where I have planed the veneer layer off to get it perfectly flat.¬¬¬*

                Although I prefer BB to MDF, the BB sure is susceptible to tear-out when it is planed.¬¬¬*

                Here are the slabs cut to 'almost-size':
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                Next, I marked out the facet lines and cut them with a 16" saw - hand-powered. I don't have the skill to cut to the line when it is a compound cut like this. It takes a couple of minutes to saw. Next I take what is becoming my favourite plane - the scrub plane. It is a narrow-bodied plane with radiused blade that takes aggressive (or fine) strips of wood when planing, but still remains easy to push. It's MO is fast stock removal. It took about a minute to get the remaining stock removed before final smoothing.

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                Here is the facet after a couple of passes with the smoother:

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                After I cut the second facet, I started on the dados on the back of the baffle that accept the front of the braces. My fingers are crossed that all of these line-up. The process here is the same as the angled dadoes in the carcass: Mark with a knife to establish clean walls, chisel some out and then router plane it.¬¬* You can see in this dado some of the lovely birch tear-out.

                I have to complete the three other dados and then I can test fit the baffle.

                My plan is to paint the carcass gloss black, but veneer the baffles. I need to do some reading on whether to apply the veneer before routing the speaker holes, glue the baffle to the carcass (or use fasteners) and then how those steps impact when I paint/veneer. I feel paralysis setting in ....

                Click image for larger version

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                ¬*
                First Build: Gloss Red Tarkus

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                • #23
                  The dados are finished on the first baffle and I test-fitted it on the cabinet and overall it's pretty good. As I said above, I was chicken to cut it to exact size, instead leaving a bit of an overhang. This turned out to be a life-saver! The baffle weighs about 28 lbs, and the 4 dados provides a fairly tight fit so it would be impossible to get the baffle off without the overhang. I use a scrap piece of wood to tap the overhang and that gives me just enough room to get my fingers in to lift it off.

                  I also started planing the second baffle perfectly flat when I hit some swirly grain - you all probably heard the scream. I've cut the facets and I have the cabinet rim and baffles dead flat.


                  Click image for larger version

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                  I'm still wrestling with whether to glue the baffles to the cabinet and then mask them off while I paint them and then veneer the baffle, or veneer and then glue to the painted cab, or veneer/glue/paint. Kept me awake for an hour this am.


                  Today I hope to start the dados on Baffle 2, but it is a Friday ....



                  ¬*
                  First Build: Gloss Red Tarkus

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                  • #24

                    Yesterday I cut the remaining dados on baffle number 2 and did the test fitting and it went better than the first one. I have some work to do to trim the baffles flush, but I think I have to cut the speaker holes or else I wont be able to lift the baffle off the cabinet (maybe suction cups, I'll try that).

                    So holes then the final prepping of the cabinet for painting. Click image for larger version

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                    First Build: Gloss Red Tarkus

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                    • #25
                      At last good weather has come to The Great White North, so I'm spending more time outside than in. However, I made a little progress yesterday on the baffles.

                      First, I decided to build a circle jig rather than using the Jasper. Two reasons for this; my Jasper will not cut a 10" diameter opening, and second, it only increments in 1/16ths. I saw a simple plan in an excellent video by "TimCan The Jig Man" and decided that was the way to go.

                      First up the jig: Took about an hour including the number of mistakes drilling locating holes. This should do holes as small as 2" and up to 20" (subwoofer build!) or so. I used a 1/2" plunging straight bit. Normal straight bits don't have a cutter on the bottom so they don't plunge very well. Some people use up spiral bits, but I think those are designed for plunging as there are no side cutters on them.



                      I did a test circle cut first to ensure I had the diameter just right. I take multiple passes until I get the 5/8th depth I'm looking for. I then adjust the jig and cut a tighter circle about a 1/4" smaller, and then drill a hole for my jigsaw.



                      I then use the inside of the cutout as a guide for the jigsaw. I use the jigsaw since it is faster, accuracy is not that important, jigsaw blades are much cheaper than router bits, and I don't have that screeching metal cutter spinning at 10k rpms.



                      The blade was just long enough to make the cut so I had to go slow. Interestingly I was about a 1/4" from completing the cut and the cutout was still firmly in place - that thickness makes a difference.

                      One future toy wheel cut:



                      A new home for the woofer - a good fit. I noticed the holes in rubber gasket around the metal edge don't lign up with the holes in the metal lip of the speaker. I'll have to be careful when I drill the holes.
                      Also, as can be expected the front is no longer as strong with that giant hole in it. However, with the brace and the sides and the speaker frame itself I'm not worried.


                      First Build: Gloss Red Tarkus

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                      • #26
                        Your pics in the above post aren't showing up for some reason.
                        Nice work on the taper for the baffles, they look great!
                        TomZ
                        *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
                        *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF *Cello's Speaker Project Page

                        *Building the "Micro-B 2.1 Plate Amplifier -- Part 1 * Part 2 * Part 3 * Part 4 * * Part 5 'Review' * -- Assembly Instructions PDF

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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by tomzarbo View Post
                          Your pics in the above post aren't showing up for some reason.
                          Nice work on the taper for the baffles, they look great!
                          TomZ
                          Thanks Tom - I don't know what is wrong with the pics - I can see them.

                          Ooops - then I tried from Safari and I see blue question marks. Chrome shows the pics - Safari doesn't.


                          ¬*
                          First Build: Gloss Red Tarkus

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                          • #28
                            I cut the mid and tweeter cutouts next. The mid-range was similar to the woofer cutout, but a bit thicker of a cut (so longer with the jigsaw) because the flange thickness is less on the mid. I then used a cove bit and a rasp to remove the tunnel effect from the mid.

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                            For the tweeter, I thought the circle was too tight for the jigsaw so I first used my largest Forstner bit but it still left about an inch of material. I then used my router to cut a hole the size of the cutout I wanted in a scrap board and used that as a template for a pattern bit in the Big Bosch. As you can see in the pic above there is an over and under cut there. I was moving the router and fed it into a climb cut that pulled the bit into the wood, the revs dropped, the lights flickered and I was so grateful that I had a tight grip and happy it was laundry day. I still have the last tweeter to cutout so I'm rethinking that process.


                            Test fit of the tweeter and mid; aiming for the Goldilocks fit. I don't want it too tight so I damage the finish when I insert them but not too loose either. ¬*I think the tweeter is a touch proud here, but once I veneer it and finish it I think it will be perfectly flush.Click image for larger version

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                            Here is the baffle on the speaker (test fit). I'm pretty pleased with the overall look. I will cut the tweeter out on the second baffle and then I have the port hole to cut in the back.

                            I'm starting to pass what I had planned out, so now it's some analysis paralysis as I think through the next steps. One thing I am going to do is put temporary feet on the cabs so I am not bashing the bases as I move them around. It will also help when I paint them to have the bases up a bit. You can see that climb-cut on the tweeter in the pic below too.

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                            ¬*
                            First Build: Gloss Red Tarkus

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                            • #29
                              good progress.. im tempted to do a similar build with my Carerras¬* that or go down another xo rabbit hole :-0

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by xsilverjag View Post
                                good progress.. im tempted to do a similar build with my Carerras¬* that or go down another xo rabbit hole :-0
                                Let me know if you would like the sketchup drawing or anything else.
                                First Build: Gloss Red Tarkus

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