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What do you use to glue your boxes

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  • #16
    Original Titebond.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by Pete Basel View Post
      I was going to ask what type 1 is and found this:Â*
      "The titles of “Type 1” or “Type 2” are applied to adhesives used to glue wood. Type 1 is basically fully waterproof. Type 2 is water resistant. Both can also withstand a bit of heating without failure."

      What brand, trade name type 1 do you use?
      I use Titebond III.Â* I buy a gallon and it lasts me for ages. If it gets stringy though before I finish it, it's time for new stuff. Another benefit is it has a longer open time which despite all the glue-up planning, I need.
      First Build: Gloss Red Tarkus

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      • #18
        Originally posted by sdep777 View Post
        Original Titebond.
        I do not believe this is the water resistant Titebond I use the Titebond III which claims to be water resistant.
        I also think the poly costruction adhesive is the best for gap filling and strength, it expands but not as much of a mess asÂ*
        gorilla which can be a nightmare to clean up especially if it gets on your fingers.

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        • #19
          [QUOTE=Wolf : Using the white glue to seal MDF is a wonderful thing, and it also is good to brush on a coat to an entire cabinet to seal it if using MDF. You can glue entire projects with it, and I've done it, but I prefer the gap-filling poly-glue adds.



          I never thought of putting white glue all over my cabinets once they are ready for the sanding process ( white as opposed to all others because ? ) This seals the wood and hardens it ? are we talking a thin layer brushed all over and on the inside as well and does this sand smooth with no gumming up and can you paint it or use vinyl wrap or real wood veneer afterwords and have no adhesive problems.

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          • #20
            I suppose wood glue would also work. If you are veneering, just use the iron-on glue method. I've not used the vinyl wrap myself. I just typically use the Elmer's white glue because you can buy gallons of it cheaply. You basically want just enough to brush coat the entire cabinet and that's it. I do not dilute it. I use it straight on.Â*If you lay it on too thick a coatÂ*it might gum up during power sanding and peel off. Try to keep sanding the glue coat layer to a minimum so it doesn't get too hot either. This can also cause the peeling effect. Put a glop of glue on a panel, and spread it out on the panel to very thin consistency. You don't want bumps, lines or textures unless you are going for that.

            Sand the uncoated bare cabinet with 150g and then 200g and 300g before application to get the cabinet smooth. Basically, I brush on a coat to seal and harden the MDF to prep for primer. You don't want paint to soak into the MDF at all. Let dry completely!!! As small amount as I'm using, this really doesn't take that long. Then power sand fairly quickly with 200g to knock off the raised grain, and thenÂ*by hand with 300g sponge or block. If you sand through the glue coat, you can apply again where it passed it, BUT- the still coated areas won't accept any more applications or they might gum up or create a lumpy surface.

            This should leave a fairly smooth sealed surface that is great to lay some Duplicolor High Build Primer on. As long as the glue is 'paintable', and the label should tell you, it should be fine. It also will firm up driver openings, cabinet edges, and the like, making the cabinet itself as well as the driver rebates a bit more resilient if they expose the fibrous core.

            You are welcome to seal the inside of the box too, but I don't always. There are other things you can apply to the inside like Redgard, Northcreek 'Glop' DIY mix, ceramic tiles to mass load,Â*etc.
            Later,
            Wolf
            "Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
            "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
            "He is a true ambassador for this forum and speaker DIY in general." -Ed Froste
            "We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith

            *InDIYana event website*

            Photobucket pages:
            http://photobucket.com/Wolf-Speakers_and_more

            My blog/writeups/thoughts here at PE:
            http://techtalk.parts-express.com/blog.php?u=4102

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            • #21
              My results may not apply to folks in colder climates, but here in Florida I've tested Tightbond ll and found that it is strong enough to cause the wood to fail rather than the glue joint with only 3 hours dry time.

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              • #22
                You guys deal with some pretty brutal humidity, whereas here in Las Vegas we have high temp with 20 % humidity and less most of the time , not to mention your rainy season and Hurricanes, think joint seperation would be # 1 concern followed by MDF crumbling, I would guess many speaker builders might use Baltic birch ?. Anyway your post has me calling Titebond tomorrow and see what they recommend for my climate, I do trust Titebond, they have been around a long time.

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