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Suggestion for slim/nearfield subwoofer build

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  • Suggestion for slim/nearfield subwoofer build

    Hi everyone, I just finish building my HT with the Overnight Sensation series from Paul K. and I'm looking to build a subwoofer (will be made with 3/4" baltic birch ply) to complete the setup. The sound system will be mostly used for Movies and some time musics. The room where it will be located is about 16' x 16' with 8' ceiling (see plan in attachment). I don't really have good place to put a "big" square sub box in the room but I've a free space behind my couch. Would a "slim/nearfield" subwoofer could do the job?

    1. The box dimension should not exceed these parameters: 20" to 24" hight, 16" max depth and 42" max lenght.
    2. Not sure if I should go with 12", 15" or 18" (maybe overkill and not feasible because of my space restraint).
    3. Budget, best bang for the buck ;)
    4. I live in Canada (Montreal), so subwoofer driver are limited to what I can find here (https://solen.ca/product-category/sp...rs/subwoofers/)
    5. Sub could be powered by a power plate or an inuke NU3000 (that would be located in vented closet).


    Do you have some box suggestion/plan and driver to suggest me?

    Thx again for your assistance!
    Attached Files

  • #2
    Given your maximum box dimensions, you'll have plenty of volume allowing many different choices of subs. The only issue of concern is allowing the driver to play into open space. And, being behind the coach, it's right behind the listeners.*Here's an example of a slim sub build. Not suggesting this build for you, just showing one slim design.

    Others will be more help ....

    Comment


    • #3
      What Mike said... tons of options with that volume and space you have available. Looks like a good 5.5 cu ft back there. First pass... Go to the Woofer Selection guide, sort by sealed or vented volume, look for woofers that fit into your volume range, perhaps about 4-5 cu ft. I see the 15" Ultimax in there at about 4 cu ft sealed with a F3 of 33. Going bigger will lower the sealed Q and lower the F3 a bit, it would work fine. Since this looks like home theatre, I'd go for a sealed F3 in the 30's or a vented F3 in the 20's.

      After that, run Unibox or other modeling software and compare a few, looking for power handling vs. Xmax, max SPL, general shape of the response and tuning etc.

      Also, what's your budget for this? That'll make a huge difference.

      Personally, with that amount of room I'd try a transmission line, which I'd have to ask for help on since I've never done that. Or, go sealed since you have plenty of volume available. That boogie man project was driven by a 5" depth, since you don't have that limit you can go with a single large cone woofer instead of the multiple small woofers.
      Electronics engineer, woofer enthusiast, and musician.
      Wogg Music

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by wogg View Post
        What Mike said... tons of options with that volume and space you have available. Looks like a good 5.5 cu ft back there. First pass... Go to the Woofer Selection guide, sort by sealed or vented volume, look for woofers that fit into your volume range, perhaps about 4-5 cu ft. I see the 15" Ultimax in there at about 4 cu ft sealed with a F3 of 33. Going bigger will lower the sealed Q and lower the F3 a bit, it would work fine. Since this looks like home theatre, I'd go for a sealed F3 in the 30's or a vented F3 in the 20's.

        After that, run Unibox or other modeling software and compare a few, looking for power handling vs. Xmax, max SPL, general shape of the response and tuning etc.

        Also, what's your budget for this? That'll make a huge difference.

        Personally, with that amount of room I'd try a transmission line, which I'd have to ask for help on since I've never done that. Or, go sealed since you have plenty of volume available. That boogie man project was driven by a 5" depth, since you don't have that limit you can go with a single large cone woofer instead of the multiple small woofers.
        Thanks wogg for the input. Budget would be around 300$ CAD for the driver. Like you said, it's just a matter of finding a good driver for the $$$ and put it in a box with the proper volume (I know the shape of the box can be anything if it's respect the volume and port dimension for vented). I'm just looking for suggestion of "proven" concept since I'm a newbie in this world

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Millstonemike View Post
          Given your maximum box dimensions, you'll have plenty of volume allowing many different choices of subs. The only issue of concern is allowing the driver to play into open space. And, being behind the coach, it's right behind the listeners.*Here's an example of a slim sub build. Not suggesting this build for you, just showing one slim design.

          Others will be more help ....
          Interesting ... but I'm curious to see if it perform well compare to a 15" or 18" sub in sealed and/or vented box. Could this for "little suckers" give a good sensation of the bass?

          Comment


          • #6
            Looks like the SB34SWNRX-S75-6 is on sale at Solen. In 100 liters you can get to F3 of 23, 4 inch port 38 cm long but that with 100 watts 107 dB.* Subwoofers are pretty easy to model. I think the key is a quality driver and a decent amp. I like the pro amp idea with DSP.
            John H

            Synergy Horn, SLS-85, BMR-3L, Mini-TL, BR-2, Titan OB, B452, Udique, Vultus, Latus1, Seriatim, Aperivox,Pencil Tower

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Darklude View Post
              ...I'm just looking for suggestion of "proven" concept since I'm a newbie in this world
              Super important for designs with crossovers, but subs are much easier. The learning curve for modeling a sub is much easier. You should give it a shot! Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
              Electronics engineer, woofer enthusiast, and musician.
              Wogg Music

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Darklude View Post

                Interesting ... but I'm curious to see if it perform well compare to a 15" or 18" sub in sealed and/or vented box. Could this for "little suckers" give a good sensation of the bass?
                My intent was to show the feasibility of a "slim" box design;* not suggesting the multiple, smaller drivers that the builder used to meet his size constraints.

                I'm not a sub guy, just a member that's read what those gents have written over time.* So hopefully they will chime in with their driver experiences and desired response vis-a-vis room gain.

                But to add a wrench in the works, a fly in the ointment, here's a babe in the woods ...*

                Click image for larger version

Name:	sub.png
Views:	1
Size:	519.6 KB
ID:	1376201*

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Millstonemike View Post

                  My intent was to show the feasibility of a "slim" box design;* not suggesting the multiple, smaller drivers that the builder used to meet his size constraints.

                  I'm not a sub guy, just a member that's read what those gents have written over time.* So hopefully they will chime in with their driver experiences and desired response vis-a-vis room gain.

                  But to add a wrench in the works, a fly in the ointment, here's a babe in the woods ...*

                  Click image for larger version

Name:	sub.png
Views:	1
Size:	519.6 KB
ID:	1376201*
                  Yep there's some "nice toy" out there that people have made!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I think, I'll go for 15" with one of these UM15-22 or RSS390HO-4 (only a few bucks difference between them). Any advice? Then, I'll try to model a box that will fit in the space behind my couch.

                    Thx,

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      First I'd pull that couch of the wall as far as you can, back wall right behind your head is terrible! I'd build three rss315ho's in 2cu ft boxes. Try to put one up by the stereo and the other two somewhere around or behind couch, adjust as needed.

                      Comment

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