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  • 12v

    Im using the Scosche LOC2SL Line Output Converter to connect the speaker output from my Whole Home Amplifier into a second Amplifier to power outdoor speakers. So, the LOC2SL converts the speaker level signal down to an RCA Left/Right Line Level Signal that can be used as an input into the Amp. The Scosche LOC2SL also has the ability to send a 12V trigger to the amplifier so that the amp only turns on when music is playing.

    My issue:
    Besides the wires to connect the speaker signal input and the RCA outputs to go from the LOC2SL to the Amp, the LOC2SL unit has a yellow wire to accept 12V+ as input, a blue wire to send 12V+ out to trigger the amp, and a black wire to connect to ground (The LOCSL (Line Output Converter) is designed to be used in a car and so the directions indicate that the Black ground wire should be connected to the car chassis)

    The outdoor speaker amplifier, has a 3.5mm jack as an input to accept a 12V trigger to turn the amplifier on.

    I plan to use a wall wart 12V DC adapter to provide power to the LOC2SL and then use the LOC2SL to trigger the outdoor speaker amplifier. I had previously tried connecting 12V+ from DC power supply to the yellow on the LOC2SL and then the Blue on the LOC2SL to the positive on the 3.5mm adapter which goes to the amp. All 3 negative (DC brick, LOC2SL, 3.5mm plug) were connected together and that did not work.

    So, now I'm just testing with a volt meter on the LOC2SL to see if I can get the 12V trigger wires to work when the music is turned on/off. I connected the power brick DC + to the Yellow of the LOC2SL and then when I test between that and the DC-, I get approx. 12V. So, I know 12V is getting to the LOC2SL. Then, when I test between the Blue 12V+ ouput from the LOC2SL and the DC-, I only get 1 to 1.4 V when the inside Amp and music are playing or when the inside Amp is off and music is not playing - makes no difference? Seems like trigger is not occurring. I also tested the volts between the LOC2SL black ground and the Blue (while the yellow is still attached to the 12V+ DC source) and I get 18V. Again, it does not make a difference if the Amp/Music are on or off?

    Any other reasons why this would not work - besides a bad trigger circuit in the LOC2SL?

    The only other issue that I can think that the source speaker wires for the LOC2SL are actually coming from a volume controlled speaker switchbox. So, my inside Amp goes into the switchbox using speaker level inputs. The box has a pair of speakers connected to 1 of the outputs and the LOC2SL to the other output. Could the switchbox be interfering with the LOC2SL's ability to know it just got an audio signal and so it does not know to turn on the trigger blue wire? If I turn the outside amp on manually, it all works so I know the signal is going from the box to the LOC2SL, its just the 'trigger' functionality that I can't get working...

    Thanks in advance for any help and advice

  • #2
    Let's start with some basics...
    What is the current rating on your DC power supply?
    Are you using "stereo"(TRS) or "mono"(TS) plugs for the 3.5mm into the amp?* Should be "mono", TS.
    Do you get line level out of the LOC, audio into the remote amp?
    Have you tried your power supply directly into the 12v trigger input on the amp?* Some have a very low current rating, so tread with caution there.
    Unfortunately, many of these LOCs are made really poorly, and are hit/miss products.


    • #3
      Thanks emilime75!
      The DC Power is 2 Amp. I'm using Mono TS plug...Yes the LOC output is said to be 'line level' on RCA jacks. Yes, I have tried the power supply directly into the 12V trigger - works perfectly. Thanks for any help you can provide.

      The Amp also has an "auto sense" feature on the line level RCA inputs and so it can sense when music is playing and switch to Standby mode when the source music is turned off. I tried this using my iphone as the source, and it works. Unfortunately, I have not been able to get it to work using the LOC as the source. I do have the gain on the LOC turned all of the way up, and I'm going to experiment with adjusting that. Does anyone know how the "auto sense" feature works on audio inputs? Is it looking for a voltage drop, the absence of voltage etc. - maybe I can get this working instead of using the 12V trigger.


      • #4
        turns out that, if I connect the Negative from the DC Source, the LOC2SL, and the 3.5mm plug heading to the Amp, and then the DC Source to the Input on the LOC2SL and the 12V output from the LOC2SL to the 3.5mm plug headingg to the Amp, it "kindof" works. When I turn the audio source on, the Amp does not turn on - BUT if I continue to increase the volume of the audio source, the Amp's LED starts to go from Red(standby) to flickery green...the higher I turn the volume, the more solid the green light, but it is still not enough to turn the amp on. I measured with a volt meter and it fluctuates between .2 and 1.1V. If I remove the ground from the 3.5mm plug from the other ground wires and measure between the 3.5mm plug ground and the hot side of the plug, I get 6V, but it does not change whether the music source is on or off?

        The source speaker output cable is approx. 60ft long, and then it goes into a volume controlled switchbox, and so maybe the signal is too weak at that point to allow the LOC2SL to use it's trigger function?
        Last edited by BPet; 05-28-2018, 10:45 AM.


        • #5
          It seems like the speaker to line level converter is over attenuating the speaker signal, not providing a strong enough signal to the amp. The LOC2SL I see online has an adjustment for the line level output. Have you tried turning up the level adjustments on LOC2SL?


          • #6
            Millstonemike, thanks for the response. Yes, I have tried adjusting the output Gain to various levels, including all the way up and down. I find it a little strange that the volt meter would show such a fluctuating value - I would think that the LOC2SL would either trigger and then send constant 12V or not trigger and so nothing on the 12V line...

            I Found a PAC TR-4...I wonder if I connect this to the + speaker wire that is feeding the Switchbox, which should be a stronger signal than the wire exiting the LOC2SL? Any thoughts:
            So, the volts to trip the trigger come from taping the speaker + wire. The speaker wire originates from my Whole Home Amplifier that is in the family room and the speakers are on the back patio and so that is where I will tap the wire. I'm planning to put a second amplifier outside and so the 12V trigger output on the TR-4 will turn on that amp. The TR-4 also has a lead for 12V+ input (which will come from a DC Power Adapter), 12V+ output(which will go to the Outside Amp trigger input), and a Ground lead.

            The TR-4 is usually used in a car and the Ground would go to the car chassis - since I'm not using it in a car, where would the Ground Wire connect? I would think the Ground would be connected to the Negative wire on the DC Power Source. But how would the TR-4 Measure the Volts on the speaker Tap if it only has the + side of the circuit? Or should the Ground of the TR-4 be connected to the Negative side of the speaker wire?

            Thanks in advance for any advice!
            Last edited by BPet; 05-28-2018, 04:53 PM.