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Compact car subwoofer suggestions?

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  • #16
    You may be right.* With 6 of the Infinitys in the closet, I haven't had a need to look for a while.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by Millstonemike View Post
      But that rear deck looks ripe for cutting out the cross beams on each side and mounting a pair of enclosed sub's attached to the underside of the deck.
      No need to cut out the beams - just build a shallow "adapter box" that bolts to the deck with an airtight seal all around, and then bolt the subs to the adapter box. The material resting on top of the rear deck may need to be removed and replaced with something more acoustically transparent.

      Originally posted by Millstonemike View Post
      One suggestion; make the boxed sub easy to disconnect and remove for those odd times when you need the entire unobstructed trunk space
      Agreed, Use a Speakon connector for the box, and the connection will be easy to remove and the connector will not run the risk of grounding the amp against an exposed part of the car's chassis if it's disconnected from the subwoofer box.
      Brian Steele
      www.diysubwoofers.org

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      • #18
        https://www.parts-express.com/tang-b...m_campaign=plahttps://www.parts-express.com/dayton...-coil--295-508 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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        • #19
          Originally posted by Brian Steele View Post

          Which Bazooka subwoofer did you have? They range in size from 6.5" to 10" and come in both amplified and passive versions. Some of them are actually pretty decent designs, but it's not unheard of for users to replace the drivers with more capable ones. Apart from the 12" version though, they seem tuned a bit high (probably emphasizing output over extension).
          I don't remember the exact model but it was an 8" 50 watt model, it was good for what it was, but nothing too special.* It kept up with the aftermarket head unit and speakers I had in that car and added some bass, but that's about all I can say about it hahaha.* I thought about moving it to the new car but kinda decided I'd like to do something a bit nicer for the new one.

          And good tip on the speakon connector, I was planning on doing some sort of quick disconnect but that sounds like the ticket, way better than just binding posts/spring terminals...

          I thought about what I could do to install something in the rear deck but I'm honestly not sure I'd be able to get it done, at least in a way that I'd be happy with it hahahaha.* I'd kindof like whatever modifications I make to look at least somewhat stock and be reversible if possible.* If it had a way to install some 6x9's that's exactly what I was going to do, grab a pair of those tang band 6x9 woofers and call it a day, but idk.* I'm trying to weigh my options here because I like the RSS woofers, but the ultimax look really nice as well.* I was also starting to look at the tang band w8-740p because it seems those work fairly well in a small enclosure as well, but in the end all of them are about the same price.* Although the ultimax 8" is out of stock and will be until july, although I'm not doing anything right now anyway thanks to the hail.** Heck, I even contemplated BFM's autotuba, but that's a bit bigger and definitely beyond my fabrication abilities at the moment.

          That and just trying to figure out what drivers would work best with the boxes that are available, because it seems either flat pack or preassembled, there are not that many options, especially for something as small as an 8", unless I try and find something that I can repurpose.

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          • #20
            Food for thought-

            I have done many car audio installations and custom builds for myself. I have spent years tinkering with a system to get it just right. Its just one of the tings I have always done since I was a kid.

            One of the traps I have found myself caught in on more than one occasion is mounting high x-max drivers with a high mechanical Q to the interior panels of the cars chassis (read rear deck or doors) themselves. The vibration transmitted to the metal panels from the driver when driven with even a moderate amount of good clean power (50-100w) can create internal panel rattles that are often times unbearable. In instances where to power level is low it sounds like distortion. At high power levels it sounds like the interior is coming apart.

            For this reason when I start a new build or even modify an existing car audio system by adding a bass speaker or speakers I try to avoid using any existing chassis panels for mounting. I do it in its it own separate enclosure. If I cant get away with that and want to do a stealth install I almost always have to reinforce the sheet metal with MDF or plywood and then dampen it with something like Dynamat. Sometimes if the panel is weaker than usual or is a large area with little bracing, I will have to go farther and after reinforcement I will have to isolate the driver from the panel with rubber.

            Not saying you are in this boat. Just saying that I have had a much easier time building a box (or 2 or 3 different ones after tuning) than I have hard mounting the drivers and chasing down the rattles.

            Hope this helps
            Matthew
            BSME
            Kannapolis NC

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            • #21
              +1, car doors and rear decks are barely adequate for midbasses, structurally speaking.
              www.billfitzmaurice.com
              www.billfitzmaurice.info/forum

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              • #22
                So with all that has been said I'm thinking more that maybe the RSS210HO-4 and flat pack box may actually be a decent way to go, I'm going to pick up the car later today so I can measure and look a little more myself to make sure though. Just as a sanity check, this is how that driver in the supplied .75 cuft box models, if it looks about right, as I haven't played with this for quite a while. (I reduced the displacement a little bit to try and account for the driver's displacement itself.) Is there any reason why this shouldn't work? I know the F3 is quite high, but the f10 is surprisingly low and taking cabin gain into account, for not needing a huge amount of output I think it may actually work quite well? At most the door speakers will only be given 50 watts each if the specifications for the amp that I'm looking at are to be believed. Either way I'm not going to be biting the bullet immediately because of funds and other things going on but I'm trying to hash out a plan in advance. The only other issue that I can think of is anchoring the box down, but that's something to worry about later down the road I think.

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