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Morel MDT-22 and Dayton ES180TiA-8

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  • #16
    Originally posted by Rdmarsiii View Post

    This route with them arranged TMM, I could still do a beveled baffle. It'd bring the overall sensitivity up. There's two different images when I google the AE2, but I get the overall idea. I'm afraid I'm going to be disappointed with the Morel since I'm sort of wanting these to be my reference speakers. In the project gallery, Dan Neubecker had a project called the Premios. He uses a Transducer Lab tweet, but since they've recently gone under, I'm guessing they will soon be NLA.
    The new Peerless TX (green trace) Click image for larger version

Name:	peer vs TL.jpg
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ID:	1378469 holds it's own compared to the TL...
    Guess xmax's age.

    My guess: 15. His grammar is passable. His trolling is good.

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    • #17
      Wow, that's really impressive. How does the Peerless look around 20k? There was a notch filter offered for the TL because it did something funky around 20k or a tad over. Would this mean the crossover would be nearly identical between the two as well?

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      • #18
        I wouldn't worry about 20k no need to notch that high. The peerless is a great value .

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        • #19
          I think I'm going to go with that Peerless. I just wish there was a eta on the bigger version, the 32mm one.

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          • #20
            PM'd you

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            • #21
              Had sort of a change of plans, going with the RST28F-4 and the ES180TiA-8. This is my mock up so far, and wanted a green light before I pull the trigger and order the crossover parts.

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              • #22
                if i'm seeing it right , 850 is awful low for any tweet .
                Paper Towers
                RS180P/28F surrounds
                Boombox

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by Rdmarsiii View Post
                  Had sort of a change of plans, going with the RST28F-4 and the ES180TiA-8. This is my mock up so far, and wanted a green light before I pull the trigger and order the crossover parts.
                  Try this filter on the woofer.
                  Attached Files

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by rpb View Post

                    Try this filter on the woofer.
                    That definitely takes care of that peak I was trying to avoid!!! Thank you!!

                    Maybe my thoughts are wrong on this, but I'm not super concerned about it crossing lower than most, since these aren't going to be high output speakers. With the low sensitivity of the woofer, I'm modeling a maximum of about 105 db. Unless I have that wrong as well haha! I think I'm learning there's no way to get around not having a third or fourth order xover on the tweet though.

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by Rdmarsiii View Post

                      That definitely takes care of that peak I was trying to avoid!!! Thank you!!

                      Maybe my thoughts are wrong on this, but I'm not super concerned about it crossing lower than most, since these aren't going to be high output speakers. With the low sensitivity of the woofer, I'm modeling a maximum of about 105 db. Unless I have that wrong as well haha! I think I'm learning there's no way to get around not having a third or fourth order xover on the tweet though.
                      It's better to be conservative in choosing a x-over point. Crossing at 2k, or higher will probably sound better than crossing below 1k even at low spl. There's a 12mH buyout coil that is about $10.50 that should work just fine for the notch. The cap value is picky in the sim, so you may need 3 or 4 close to the value shown to get the notch right. You will need to measure the response to see if it's correct. If you can't measure, you might consider adding a mid, and making a 3-way.

                      You might be able to use shallower slopes on the woofer, but I see no strong reason to do so.The steeper slope helps with the peaks at 3k, and 6k.

                      Note that my x-over pulls down the sensitivity to about 82dB for full, or close to full baffle step compensation. I assumed the speakers would be out away from the wall a few feet. The measured response should be close to flat, even though the sim shows the bass getting louder down low.

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by rpb View Post

                        It's better to be conservative in choosing a x-over point. Crossing at 2k, or higher will probably sound better than crossing below 1k even at low spl. There's a 12mH buyout coil that is about $10.50 that should work just fine for the notch. The cap value is picky in the sim, so you may need 3 or 4 close to the value shown to get the notch right. You will need to measure the response to see if it's correct. If you can't measure, you might consider adding a mid, and making a 3-way.

                        You might be able to use shallower slopes on the woofer, but I see no strong reason to do so.The steeper slope helps with the peaks at 3k, and 6k.

                        Note that my x-over pulls down the sensitivity to about 82dB for full, or close to full baffle step compensation. I assumed the speakers would be out away from the wall a few feet. The measured response should be close to flat, even though the sim shows the bass getting louder down low.
                        Expanding on your idea to add a mid, I do have the aluminum Dayton dome midrange, and the classic fabric midrange I've been trying to find a use for. This might be an ideal opportunity. My goal was to build a two way standmount with decent extension and output, and with a single Esoteric I don't think I'll get there. I think any sort of respectable output will require multiple Esoteric woofers.

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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by Rdmarsiii View Post

                          Expanding on your idea to add a mid, I do have the aluminum Dayton dome midrange, and the classic fabric midrange I've been trying to find a use for. This might be an ideal opportunity. My goal was to build a two way standmount with decent extension and output, and with a single Esoteric I don't think I'll get there. I think any sort of respectable output will require multiple Esoteric woofers.
                          Loud, and extended usually run the cost up considerably, and on top of that, there's often a weak spot in the design that ends up limiting it anyway. My room is small, and bass friendly. I get all the performance I need from a 6.5" 2-way. Sometimes I want , or think I could build something even better, but realistically, I'm pretty much happy with what I have now, since building better would involve a substantial increase in cost, and box size. Even increasing the design to include a second 6.5" driver doesn't gain me that much. Actually, I used to have a 6.5" mtm. I heard it once with a big amplifier, and it was more capable than my current tm design. With my 100w amp, the difference is minimal. I can play loud enough with the tm running full range. I have a ported 7 cu-ft 15" sub that I could use, and play even louder, but if I play any louder, I'll need to keep the listening sessions much shorter. An upgrade that I'd like would be a 12" 3-way. Maybe the Dayton DSA315-8 woofer. The mid would likely be a 6.5" Peerless 830874 HDS woofer. I like my old Morel tweeters, but I've been lusting after the Peerless DA25TX00-08. I use the 830874 in my tm. I've not heard the other two. The DSA315 has over 3 times the cone area of the 830874.

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                          • #28
                            Amateur mistake, but I totally botched the woofer cut out. Driver cut out is right at 7", and the countersink is 7 13/16". So I've been looking at overly large 6.5" woofers, 7" woofers, and 7.5" woofers. The Aurum Cantus AC165/50C2C #296-446 and the Satori 7.5" woofers are the only ones that will fit into my cut out. The cut out for the RST came out perfect, though. I'm leaning more towards the Aurum Cantus since its $120 cheaper per pair, sensitivity is decent, and power handling seems to be great. I'm assuming this one will need to be sealed because the enclosure may be too large, and read that if its in a large enclosure it has a nasty 70 hz peak.

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                            • #29
                              Aurum Cantus drivers have a reputation for having a Qts much higher than their spec sheet. For example, the AC165/50CK has a spec sheet Qts of 0.19 and was measured as 0.711 by Zaph in his"Blog". If the AC165/50C2C follows that trend you shouldn't have a problem with a large sealed cab. I've used the AC130F1 and the standard AC-165. I really like both, you just need to account for their T/S parameters.
                              "Everything is nothing without a high sound quality." (Sure Electronics)

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by ernperkins View Post
                                Aurum Cantus drivers have a reputation for having a Qts much higher than their spec sheet. For example, the AC165/50CK has a spec sheet Qts of 0.19 and was measured as 0.711 by Zaph in his"Blog". If the AC165/50C2C follows that trend you shouldn't have a problem with a large sealed cab. I've used the AC130F1 and the standard AC-165. I really like both, you just need to account for their T/S parameters.
                                Well it sounds like this one should work out just fine then! I have never heard any of their drivers before, so this is kind of a shot in the dark.

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