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  • #9 countersink?

    I'm fastening baffles to the front and rear of my cabinet, and I picked out these screws to do the job:

    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Grip-Rit...BL40/204172246
    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Grip-Rit...BL67/204172244

    The 1 5/8" screws are #8, so I could use a #8 countersink, but I can't seem to reliably find a #9 countersink for the 2 1/2" screws. I suppose I could just use 2" drywall screws that are #6, but I'd rather do it properly. I have been using this fluted countersink bit, but my results have been pretty mixed, with more bad than good. If I want it just right, I need to go back and forth multiple times between the screw and the countersink as a trial and error.

    I'd like to do it all in one shot with something like this:

    https://www.amazon.com/Woodworking-C.../dp/B0789BQ4Z5

    Suggestions?


  • #2
    Those screws aren't really for fine woodworking. Try a more traditional wood screw in a size you can find a countersink for?

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    • #3
      Suggestion on a screw? They look pretty nice, actually. Slight gloss finish and a star head. They should be black to not stand out like a sore thumb.

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      • #4
        https://www.keocutters.com/product-c.../countersinks/
        have fun.
        http://www.diy-ny.com/

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        • #5
          So that's just a page of 100s of parts. Anything specific?

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          • #6
            beatle, why do you need a 2.5" screw to attach your baffles? How thick are they? I'd be worried about quality with that amazon brad point drill set you linked. Looks kinda like a harbor freight special that won't last as long as we'd all like!

            Generally, if I'm going to screw a baffle into place, I prefer using socket screws and threaded inserts. This way I can remove the baffle if needed while still providing a more professional look. I'm personally not a fan of exposed phillips head screws on my projects.
            Voxel Down Firing with Dayton SA70
            Translam Subwoofers - The Jedi Mind Tricks
            The Super Bees - Garage 2 way
            SevenSixTwo - InDIYana 2018 Coax
            The Defiants - InDIYana 2019 "Bare Minimum" Build

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            • #7
              I'd rather go with a 2" screw. The baffle is 1.5" thick, fastened into a 3/4" piece of ply as a back support. This is a subwoofer box. Threaded inserts sound like a nice touch. This will have a foam gasket between the baffle and the box, so there may be a bit of interference with a machine screw. Something like several quantities of this?

              https://www.parts-express.com/parts-...g-kit--260-778

              I picked up a set of socket head screws for my OS build (first set) and had a bear of a time stripping them out. Perhaps I didn't use a large enough pilot hole, but they felt like cheese. I suppose these could be countersunk as well with the appropriate drill bit (forstner?) just a bit more finicky than I'd like.

              I'm not a fan of exposed phillips either, which was why I thought the star drive was a nice touch.

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              • #8
                I understand what you're after a bit better now. I've never tried to screw a subwoofer baffle on before, but I suppose it's possible. I'd be concerned about air leaks around the gasket, especially if you're making a monster sub box, hence all of my sub boxes have been glued together with either Titebond II wood glue or PL Premium construction adhesive.

                As for the screws, yeah, you can certainly use the PE mounting kits with hurricane nuts. If you're looking for larger quantities I like the EZ-Lok threaded inserts available elsewhere. Available in lots of thread sizes, and inexpensive too. Installed with a bit of wood glue or epoxy around the external threads and you're set. This does require precise location of your holes though. Trying to force a machine thread screw into an insert that's a little bit off-center isn't fun.

                The socket screws you're referring to for your OS build. I assume those are the parts express wood screws with the hex head? I agree... I like em, but I've had a terrible time trying to use them without stripping the heads. I think the threads are cut a bit larger than standard wood screws. That's great for holding power...IF you can get 'em installed! I would pay twice as much for them if I knew they were using good steel to produce them!

                Forstner bits are your friend. I countersunk a set of Helium front baffles using the PE wood screws. Turned out great... once I figured out the right size of hole to drill for the screw!
                Voxel Down Firing with Dayton SA70
                Translam Subwoofers - The Jedi Mind Tricks
                The Super Bees - Garage 2 way
                SevenSixTwo - InDIYana 2018 Coax
                The Defiants - InDIYana 2019 "Bare Minimum" Build

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                • #9
                  look for fastenere 8-32 x 2" socket screw on amazon. The ones with "YFS" on the head seem to be made from decent steel. Otherwise, if you're looking for top-dog fastener steel, check out your local Fastenal store for something made by Holo-krome.
                  Voxel Down Firing with Dayton SA70
                  Translam Subwoofers - The Jedi Mind Tricks
                  The Super Bees - Garage 2 way
                  SevenSixTwo - InDIYana 2018 Coax
                  The Defiants - InDIYana 2019 "Bare Minimum" Build

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                  • #10
                    The all in one counter sinks never worked well for me. I like to use Fosterer bits for the counter sink. They seem to give the sharpest edge cuts. I use a lot of different fasteners, but drywall screws always look like drywall screws.
                    John H

                    Synergy Horn, SLS-85, BMR-3L, Mini-TL, BR-2, Titan OB, B452, Udique, Vultus, Latus1, Seriatim, Aperivox,Pencil Tower

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                    • #11
                      These micro adjustable countersinks will give you a consistent c'sink once set up. Seems expensive for your job, they're really for aircraft sheet metal flush riveting. The kind of screws you're using I would just install and let them countersink themselves. That's what I did on my Econowave baffles.

                      micro adjustable countersink - Google Search

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                      • #12
                        I suppose I could just glue everything up as well which would save this heartache. Not sure if it qualifies as a "monster" sub, but it's a sealed RSS390-HO in about a 3.5 cu ft.

                        Originally this build was going to be ported, but I ran into some difficulties with the ports and the final volume of the box, so I figured I could get decent sound out of a sealed box. That said, if I were going sealed from the get go, I would have picked up the UM 15 which I might still go for down the road. A screwed in baffle would give me that flexibility.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by beatle View Post
                          I suppose I could just glue everything up.. .
                          I can't imagine why you wouldn't.

                          www.billfitzmaurice.com
                          www.billfitzmaurice.info/forum

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                          • #14
                            A screwed in baffle would allow me to swap drivers without reconstructing the entire box.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by beatle View Post
                              A screwed in baffle would allow me to swap drivers without reconstructing the entire box.
                              Hey Beatle... while this is true, I personally find that I will arrive at different box volumes for different drivers. Yes, you can swap drivers in and out of a given box and things will work, but it may not be an optimum performance for every driver.

                              Even if you glue the baffle down in the end, I still vote for threaded inserts on the driver mounting. Makes life so much easier if you need to pop the driver in and out while adjusting the amount of damping material you're stuffing in the box! Additionally, use a drill bit designed for door hinges when doing the holes here. They have a spring loaded tip with a centering cone on them to make sure you have a nicely centered hole 100% of the time. I can find you a link later if you can't google it based on my description alone.

                              Good luck sir!
                              Voxel Down Firing with Dayton SA70
                              Translam Subwoofers - The Jedi Mind Tricks
                              The Super Bees - Garage 2 way
                              SevenSixTwo - InDIYana 2018 Coax
                              The Defiants - InDIYana 2019 "Bare Minimum" Build

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