most of the items can be controlled via the remote, so i think i could actually go with them, but if lets say the Input functions could be combined to a potentiometer as for the second row of functions, then have the one for the volume and a button for the power i would be set. I dont think it has any for treble / bass..
Pioneer vsx-521-k.
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Post your Pioneer model number. We can find some detailed info on it's construction.
With a simple amplifier, It only takes some knowledge/care running wires to remote potentiometers to limit cross talk / interference. With modern integrated amps or AVRs, odds are, that behind the face plate are PCBs with lots of integration to the controls ups front. In the past, I've created custom HT system that simply integrated the front of the AVR/amp into the design using the unit intact - basically a precision cutout and shelf for amp.Leave a comment:
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Yeah bit stuck here, i have a TV mounted on the wall, which cannot really be adjusted which the base of it is 600mm off the ground. We arent really audiophiles, just like it to sound nice and clear when used. I also have a micro hifi about 5m away and a PC with a little stereo attached almost 7m away and the house i fairly open plan, so there is an abundance of musical devices nearby if required.
if i was to build a time machine i think i would have made the cabinet height more to suit the the old speakers i have (ie 500-550 high instead of 450) and have installed the TV higher as well. At the time the TV was to suit eye level on the sofa. So much to consider, which i didnt....If i want to use the old speakers, all i can do is keep the woofers on the same vertical alignment an line the centre of the tweeter with the common tangents of the woofer basically offsetting it around 90-100mm. The existing tweeter isnt actually 100mm in diameter, just the housing it sits in, which is the same for the woofers.Attached FilesLeave a comment:
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Plenty of room to work with! It looks like you already have things sectioned off into 3 compartments. Just keep the interior volume for the woofers and port dimensions the same. The only real pitfall here might be height. Most speakers are designed to have the tweeters near ear level. If your cabinet is sitting on the floor, things can sometimes sound...well, less than optimal. If you are going to put this stand on legs, it may be much less of a problem.Leave a comment:
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Hey thanks for that, I started looking through the speaker kits last night and saw the Amigas were basically what I described above, just without the tweeter. Didn't have any in stock so I just recreated the parts list to see how it was cost wise. Not too bad, with the exception of the poorer Aussie dollar. The available area/ dimensions of each side is 600*450*450mm. I'm just short 50-100mm putting all three of the existing speakers exactly how they sit now.Leave a comment:
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Hi 3rutu5! What are your cabinet dimensions? From the looks it, you have room to squeeze a 6.5 - 7" woofer under a standard tweeter in each side. Take a look at the Hitmakers or Amigas on Paul Carmody's site for some ideas. https://sites.google.com/site/undefinition/diy He really knows his stuff. The sound will be slightly different due to the shape and size of your cabinet, but it'll be miles ahead of using a pre-assembled crossover with expensive drivers. Most people (non-audio geeks) don't understand that changing the baffle size can change the sound of a speaker. If there's another forum member close to you, they may be able to help you tweak the crossovers for this specific application.Leave a comment:
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When I wrote stereo, I meant that I don't see any center channel provision in your sketches.Leave a comment:
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I guess if i was to get (below link) to act like a tweeter/mids
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...4-ohm--295-378
and its bigger brother to do the rest
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...oofer--295-355
any idea who i could ask to provide advise on the cross over side of things? Only reason i have picked these particular two is they get good reviews, but there are other options. Read somewhere that there may be pre prepare dayton audio cross over boards as well...
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Not really, trying to incorporate our home entertainment needs, replace a broken cabinet and create a visually pleasing bit of furniture that doesnt just look like a big speaker.
Might build a PC at a later date and make it more of a media center or might not. Kids spend most of their time streaming directly to the TV, so it might not really be needed.Leave a comment:
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Hi Carbon13, yeah some general feedback from other sites suggest im screwing with the dynamics of the speakers and unless im going to keep the arrangement it may sound like crap. I think if i try and retro fit an old receiver it will be more time and effort that initially thought, so will be scrapping that idea in favour of finding a silver faced unit like a yamaha. Got excited when i spotted one that fit my needs, but then found out it was stereo only.Welcome to the Forum! Nice project. I think you may have some more responses in regards to the speaker portion of your project. What are the drivers? how will they be oriented? what is the volume of cab? Crossovers? I suspect the many speaker experts on this forum will help guide you through that part since I don't think it's trivial to condense a couple towers into a new configuration as your sketch indicates. But I'm no expert on speaker/crossover design. I do however do a lot of woodworking and I love the beautiful work you've done on this!
Another approach that may give more flexibility for future upgrades (not that ever happens...
) would to be to incorporate a recessed opening for the receiver and just cover it with something hinged or removable. Something IR transparent would allow remote use, maybe a decorative metal mesh or perforated metal like you see on AV receivers to allow air flow. Or a combination of this and a hinged wood door (which could also be modified or rebuilt for a different receiver in future. Just some thoughts.
If somebody could recommend the right 6-7inch woofer, tweeter and cross over board i would definitely take that on board
as i'm a bit out of my depth here it would seem and starting to open up pandoras box. Just noticed that there is a Dayton Audio 7inch reference woofer that looks like it would work, but i honestly dont know what the difference is between a reference, full range, mid range etc actually i, i just want something that sounds pretty sweet and doesnt cost the earth.
All i really want to do is play TV/Netflix/movies through it and music as well and depending on the space requirements of these speakers may incorporate (hide) a sub. Even considering putting some centres, but also may look at a wall option for that as i will be mounting some ceiling speakers for the rears.Leave a comment:
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Welcome to the Forum! Nice project. I think you may have some more responses in regards to the speaker portion of your project. What are the drivers? how will they be oriented? what is the volume of cab? Crossovers? I suspect the many speaker experts on this forum will help guide you through that part since I don't think it's trivial to condense a couple towers into a new configuration as your sketch indicates. But I'm no expert on speaker/crossover design. I do however do a lot of woodworking and I love the beautiful work you've done on this!
Another approach that may give more flexibility for future upgrades (not that ever happens...) would to be to incorporate a recessed opening for the receiver and just cover it with something hinged or removable. Something IR transparent would allow remote use, maybe a decorative metal mesh or perforated metal like you see on AV receivers to allow air flow. Or a combination of this and a hinged wood door (which could also be modified or rebuilt for a different receiver in future. Just some thoughts.
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cheers KEtheredge87, this entire build has been quite ambitious. The build is in its infancy, maybe better to invest in a 5.1 channel board, but not sure what else is actually needed (apart from the PSU). At the end of the day, all we really watch is free to air TV, Netflix and stream media from another PC in the house, so as long as there is a HDMI connection or two, we would be ok using a kit over the existing receiver.Leave a comment:
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Hi 3rutu5, Welcome to the forum! Sounds like your project is definitely a custom build. When you say Pioneer Amp with LCD screen I assume you mean AV Receiver... and I can't say I've ever seen anyone take a box like that and integrate it into their TV stand. Done well, I'm sure it would look mighty slick! My worry would be what happens when you want to upgrade, or if something lets out the magic smoke on the receiver board then you need to replace it? Obviously it's a lot easier to swap a box out rather than dig in and remove boards... but hey, you do you!
I do not know how to help with the electronics project you're describing here, but there are several forum members who may be able to give you some sage advice. Millstonemike and neildavis come to mind...
Good luck!Leave a comment:
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need some advice
hey guys, first time on here so be gentle. I'm recycling a set of tower speakers into an quite sizable tv cabinet and was thinking of pulling the faceplate off my boring pioneer amp and getting a electronics guru to desolder and then solder some wires so i can put some custom dials onto the wood work im doing, but at the same time hiding the internals. the LCD screen isnt that large either.
so question is, has anyone attempted anything like this or know of somebody who may have? or would the folks on this forum be more inclined to buy the boards and do it instead.
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