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3 way bluetooth speaker build. need help

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  • 3 way bluetooth speaker build. need help

    hey all, first time poster here. i was trying to build a cool mono 3 way bluetooth speaker tower. but im not sure how to go about it. i want to do a tweeter, mid range, and a subwoofer. doesnt need to be crazy, but i was thinking maybe an 8 inch woofer downward facing. with the mid and tweeter in the front. the problem i am having is finding a good amp to run them all. i would use a 3 way crossover to break up the ranges between the speakers, unless someone has a better idea of how to do this. for the amps i were looking at, they would need like a 48volt power supply, which means trying to run a bluetooth board will be hard, because they take 12 volt power. so any help on how to get this build into motion would be awesome! im not worried about adding battery power to it. it would basically be a plug in and leave kind of speaker. i also thought about doing maybe an amp plate, but i dont know how that would work to run all three speakers.

    any help would be greatly appreciated. i have built a bluetooth speaker once and i really liked doing it. so i am looking for some cool ideas for speaker builds. makes for a fun hobby.

    anyway, sorry for the long message. please let me know what i can do to make this work, or if this isnt going to work at all.

    Thanks everyone!

  • #2
    If you want 100+ W rms into an 8 ohm speaker, you do need an amp rated for a 48 V supply. If you can live with 75 W rms, the supply can drop to a 36 V model.

    As you state, you need to run the BT module at 12 V. You would need an isolated DC-DC converter to drop the 48 V supply down to 12 V ($20 at digikey). Using just a voltage regulator to drop to 12 V will cause ground loop / hum.

    As for the three-way tower, you may want to look at existing DIY designs, there are many. And the XOs for those designs are engineered specifically for the drivers, not some off-the-shelf 3-way XO.

    Comment


    • #3
      Thank you! i appreciate you're help. Is there anything you would recommend to make this better? like for instance, if i use different speakers? maybe ones that are 4 ohm. also, since i dont really know what i am looking for, can you provide a link to the dc dc converter? I have looked into designing the xo to match the speakers. i know i could probably use an out of the box one and it would be ok. but i will look into exactly what i need once i have speakers that i am going to use. is there a way i can reduce the hum from the converter?

      In the meantime i will look at designs out there for a 3 way speaker build. and see what people have.

      Again, thank you so much for your help. im a noob and this is more of a fun project for me, but i would like to make it safe and sound good. i dont want anything catching fire or blowing up lol.

      here is the bluetooth i just recently built as my first ever bluetooth speaker build. it sounds good, but distorts at about 3 quarters volume, so i just made the max volume be right before it distorts. and its plenty loud for setting in a room or on the back porch while people are over. and its cool to say i built it.

      Comment


      • #4
        Chumzy,
        nice work on that speaker. It's beautiful!

        I don't know much about the electronics end of this stuff, but here is a link to a thread about a table radio that I built several months ago and the issues I had getting noise to an acceptable level:

        http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...r-supply-issue

        It's from this thread about the radio: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...d-thread/page3

        The first link has some good information about the process of narrowing down the noise issue I was having in that radio. Most of these little electronic doo-dads -- amps and such -- seem to have the issue of making noise, usually ground related.The solution that worked was thanks to these guys on Tech Talk... a DC to DC converter. They have isolated ones which won't cause noise from ground issues since there is no continuity on the ground. They're pretty small and work at different voltages, but they have one that will do what you need and make things nice and quiet.

        TomZ
        *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
        *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF *Cello's Speaker Project Page

        *Building the "Micro-B 2.1 Plate Amplifier -- Part 1 * Part 2 * Part 3 * Part 4 * * Part 5 'Review' * -- Assembly Instructions PDF

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by tomzarbo View Post
          Chumzy,
          nice work on that speaker. It's beautiful!

          I don't know much about the electronics end of this stuff, but here is a link to a thread about a table radio that I built several months ago and the issues I had getting noise to an acceptable level:

          http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...r-supply-issue

          It's from this thread about the radio: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...d-thread/page3

          The first link has some good information about the process of narrowing down the noise issue I was having in that radio. Most of these little electronic doo-dads -- amps and such -- seem to have the issue of making noise, usually ground related.The solution that worked was thanks to these guys on Tech Talk... a DC to DC converter. They have isolated ones which won't cause noise from ground issues since there is no continuity on the ground. They're pretty small and work at different voltages, but they have one that will do what you need and make things nice and quiet.

          TomZ
          Thank! i will check out the links, i appreciate your help!

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Millstonemike View Post
            If you want 100+ W rms into an 8 ohm speaker, you do need an amp rated for a 48 V supply. If you can live with 75 W rms, the supply can drop to a 36 V model.

            As you state, you need to run the BT module at 12 V. You would need an isolated DC-DC converter to drop the 48 V supply down to 12 V ($20 at digikey). Using just a voltage regulator to drop to 12 V will cause ground loop / hum.

            As for the three-way tower, you may want to look at existing DIY designs, there are many. And the XOs for those designs are engineered specifically for the drivers, not some off-the-shelf 3-way XO.


            So let me ask you this, lets say i get 3 speakers. a 7inch woofer, 5 inch mid, and a tweeter, all 4 ohms. would this set up work?

            Bluetooth unit:
            https://www.parts-express.com/12-vdc...remot--320-348

            Amp power and 24 to 12 volt converter:
            https://www.parts-express.com/sure-e...ogy)--320-3340

            https://www.parts-express.com/pyle-p...rter--267-7334

            https://www.parts-express.com/mean-w...bles--320-3166

            Crossover:
            https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...00-hz--260-152


            Speakers:
            https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...4-ohm--295-374

            https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...4-ohm--295-370

            https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...4-ohm--275-108

            would this set up with a three way crossover work? would it have enough power from the amp? are there any issues that would make this sound bad or not be compatible?

            I would really like to build this in a bluetooth tower with the woofer facing down, and the mid and tweeter facing forward. I think this would be a really cool design.

            Any help you guys could give me would be greatly appreciated. Thank you so much!

            Comment


            • #7
              The off the shelf crossover probably would not do justice to those nice drivers you have selected.

              Comment


              • #8
                Lets say i do a custom 3 way crossover to spec of the drivers will this setup work? Is it over powered or underpowered? I am basically mashing together an idea, but dont know if these pieces will work together. Especially the converter. I just want to make sure that if i buy these items it will work and sound good and wont blow anything. Or catch fire lol.

                Thanks for the help!

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by chumzy View Post
                  Lets say i do a custom 3 way crossover to spec of the drivers will this setup work? Is it over powered or underpowered? I am basically mashing together an idea, but dont know if these pieces will work together. Especially the converter. I just want to make sure that if i buy these items it will work and sound good and wont blow anything. Or catch fire lol.

                  Thanks for the help!
                  Extremely doubtful the Pyle converter is isolated. You need an isolated converter like this one. PM Tom Zarbo. He used PE's faceplate / BT module with an isolated converter similar to the one I referenced. That worked for him. He would know exactly which DC-DC isolation unit he used.

                  Furthering djg's comment: an off-the-shelf XO sounding good has the probability of winning the lottery. And online calculators aren't much better, at all. From your statements, it would seem you do not know, what you don't know about speaker design. Any of these terms familiar: Box model, BSC, baffle diffraction, driver padding, .frz and .zma files, minimum phase ...

                  If I were you, I'd look for a known design and concentrate on the physical build. Here's a 3-way 4 ohm tower designed by a well regarded TT member in the PE project gallery. Ot look for MTM or 2.5 4 ohm tower.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Millstonemike View Post

                    Extremely doubtful the Pyle converter is isolated. You need an isolated converter like this one. PM Tom Zarbo. He used PE's faceplate / BT module with an isolated converter similar to the one I referenced. That worked for him. He would know exactly which DC-DC isolation unit he used.

                    Furthering djg's comment: an off-the-shelf XO sounding good has the probability of winning the lottery. And online calculators aren't much better, at all. From your statements, it would seem you do not know, what you don't know about speaker design. Any of these terms familiar: Box model, BSC, baffle diffraction, driver padding, .frz and .zma files, minimum phase ...

                    If I were you, I'd look for a known design and concentrate on the physical build. Here's a 3-way 4 ohm tower designed by a well regarded TT member in the PE project gallery. Ot look for MTM or 2.5 4 ohm tower.
                    Your Awesome, thank you! i will look into all of this. you are right in assuming i know nothing. because that is true. i built one speaker for fun and i liked it. but i know nothing about what i am doing or the terms you are using. so i will research. but i do appreciate you pointing me in the right direction. thats exactly what i came here for. a nice push in the direction of learning.

                    Thank you!

                    Comment

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