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Speaker Build newbee needs advise

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  • Speaker Build newbee needs advise

    Hi, This is my 1st post to this forum. I'm designing some 3d speakers boxes that will be machined on a Cnc. Each Speaker box will only have one speaker. Tang Band W3-1878 3" Full Range Driver 25 watt max. I would like to just plug them in to my stereo when the build is complete. But I'm interested also making them battery operated and amped with Bluetooth I think with a Dayton Audio KAB-230v3 2x30W Class D Audio Amplifier Board with Bluetooth 4.0... Is this board to powerful. Also, would I need 1 for each speaker.. Not sure if this can be done or what I would need to make this happen... Could use a experts advise on what is needed. TIA

  • #2
    This is the 1 half of the interior of the speaker housing. I also have designed a base that it sits in.. If I could incorporate the DC end of the amp / blue tooth etc.. But, still want both worlds direct to the stereo direct or separate Bluetooth Dc via battery or wall plug for it.

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    • #3
      Greetings Tom! Cool design. Have you modeled the response of the horn...or is that considered a port? I know very little about horn design - but I thought most horns had a taper through the entire length. If it's a port with a really long flare on one end, the small diameter in the middle might be problematic...unless it's actually a wider oval shape than this cross-section is showing.
      Co-conspirator in the development of the "CR Gnarly Fidelity Reduction Unit" - Registered Trademark, Patent Pending.

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      • #4
        I had got this speaker housing idea from a picture I had seen that had a 2 inch speaker like the design and made it larger and better. I guess a horn might fit that bill. I never built a speaker before. I want to for my grandchildren. I have no idea about electronics or this type of stuff... But will try and learn. I Need insight about the ways to go about this.. I have the machining end down not the amp card with Bluetooth ect.

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        • #5
          This will be the base for the speaker they will be doweled and glue together. The base bottom is where I like to put the electronics for the speaker.
          Attached Files

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          • #6
            I admire your cad and machining skills. I barely know the basics of SketchUp. Unfortunately, you can't just plop a speaker into an enclosure and expect it work well. That driver looks pretty smooth sounding, but has limited bass capability. In the wrong enclosure, it will be even worse. You really need to have info about the volume of the box and the appropriate tuning frequency to get the best low end out of any woofer/full range driver. You'll see suggestions for the cabinet size and tuning on PE's page for most woofers. For this driver, a ported enclosure with an airspace of .03 cubic feet is recommended - that's not including the volume taken up by the speaker itself and the port. A 1" (inside dia) round port 3 1/8" in length would give you an F3 (the frequency where the low end roll-off is at -3db) 135Hz. That's not very low & most people would want a small sub to fill in the bottom octaves.

            The advice most around here give folks new to this hobby is to build a proven design to get your feet wet. There's a lot more engineering that goes into speaker design than most people realize. But don't be put off by that - there are lots of good people here to help and there are lots of designs in the Project Gallery or available as kits. It's an addictive hobby - especially if you appreciate music and higher-end audio systems.
            Co-conspirator in the development of the "CR Gnarly Fidelity Reduction Unit" - Registered Trademark, Patent Pending.

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            • #7
              Hi Tom, I have plus .07 ft3 no including the port area would you suggest another speaker.... These speaker and housings will be use for the grandchildren for video games radio TV etc....

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              • #8
                I opened up the tube some and gave more volume and depth.. would this be a improvement??

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                • #9
                  If you are going to do a horn you need to model it in a program like harnsrep. Since it is your first speaker design it might be easier to do a simple 2 way and put your skills to use making a cool box.

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                  • #10
                    I'm not even sure how you would calculate that port flare. Maybe someone else here has a better understanding of that. I'm not sure how old your grandkids are, but these won't have any real impact for combat/action games. You might look at the Overnight Sensation kit. Someone designed a 3D printed pod veresion and brought it to Iowa DIY last October. It looked pretty cool and despite being a little too thin in spots, it sounded pretty good! Sorry, I can't remember his name, but he was more than happy to discuss the details. Those woofers can actually produce a surprising amount of bass - my son built them and abuses them on regular basis.Click image for larger version  Name:	42-_DS51440.jpg Views:	1 Size:	353.9 KB ID:	1384486
                    Last edited by tom_s; 08-06-2018, 06:09 PM. Reason: Added comment about bass
                    Co-conspirator in the development of the "CR Gnarly Fidelity Reduction Unit" - Registered Trademark, Patent Pending.

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