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  • Router Table recommendation !!!

    Ahoy, all!
    I recently acquired a Bosch router table which I’m excited to work with. It’s the Bosch RA1181 Benchtop Router Table, and I was curious if anyone has any recommendations for a router to go with it. I currently have an old plunge router from Harbor Freight, so I’m looking to get a new router for this table. I expect that the router I get will be a dedicated router for the table, but I suppose I may take it out from time to time.

    Although I have used router tables before, I have never set one up. I’m not sure what is considered desirable for a router table router, so any suggestions you have would be awesome. Also, I heard from a friend of mine that Porter-Cable routers are not always compatible with other brands and that I should check ahead of time to make sure I don’t get something I can’t use. My price range is $100-$250ish. I had been looking at PORTER-CABLE 895PK, but I wasn’t sure if it would fit because of what my friend said. Anyway, if someone could steer me towards something good I’d appreciate it. Thanks!
    Tom Hawkins

  • #2
    I've been extremely satisfied with this thing, in particular the micro fine adjustment and several other factors.

    There's a ton of information where I picked it up over here.

    Comes with a nice set of features, stuff and does a nice job so far in all configurations including freehand, plunge and table mounted. I wound up picking up several other things including circle jigs, router bit kits etc. All work very well with it.


    Bosch 2.3HP Electronic Modular Router System with Carrying Case:
    Model # MRC23EVSK


    Feel free to rip my assumptions apart when wrong, or fix if close.

    Passive Radiators:
    All PR(s) Vd must be at-least double all woofer(s) Vd. Calc = Sd x Xmax to get Vd for all PR(s) and all woofer(s). A combined PR(s) Vd equal or > than a combined woofer(s) Vd is usable.
    Woofer(s) with large Xmax vs Sd, all PR(s) with Xmax at-least double all woofer(s) Xmax is usable.
    A PR max weight is said to be its Mms x3

    PR Systems - tight focus with key parameters.
    PR Speaker Design - thorough coverage.

    Comment


    • #3
      I'm a big fan of the Bosch routers as well. I have two Bosch 1617 variable speed routers and one Bosch colt palm router. One of the 1617's stays permanently mounted in my router table. If I had to pick a negative about the Bosch line, it's that the accessories for dust collection, template routing, and edge guides are overpriced, in my opinion.

      All of that said... If you wanted another recommendation, I've heard good things about the DeWalt line of routers too. Not sure if there would be a compatibility issue between the Bosch router table and a DeWalt router motor, but it's worth looking into.
      Voxel Down Firing with Dayton SA70
      Translam Subwoofers - The Jedi Mind Tricks
      The Super Bees - Garage 2 way
      SevenSixTwo - InDIYana 2018 Coax

      Comment


      • #4
        I had an almost identical one. I used both plunge and fixed router bases. The fixed was easier to adjust. I used both craftsman and dewalt routers but any 1/2 inch collet router would work fine in my opinion. I wouldn't spend too much and would consider refurb routers as well. Get something you can mount and leave it in the table forever as they are pain to remove.

        I modified my table with a cardboard back on the lower section for another dust port. Added a taller one piece fence and reworked the plastic guard with a strap hinge. I always clamped mine to the workbench when I used it.
        John H

        Synergy Horn, SLS-85, BMR-3L, Mini-TL, BR-2, Titan OB, B452, Udique, Vultus, Latus1, Seriatim, Aperivox,Pencil Tower

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        • #5
          I have that Bosch router table and a DeWalt router. The DeWalt router came with a fixed base and a plunge base (I don't know the model # off-hand). I have the fixed base attached to the router table. I can remove the motor from the base by releasing the clamp and pushing in two clips on the side; leaving the fixed base in the table since it is attached with 3 or 4 screws. I can then use the motor in the plunge base for things such as making circles with a Jasper Jig, or other things that can't be done on the table.

          I'm very happy with this combo, but haven't used any other router tables to compare it to.
          Last edited by a4eaudio; 10-06-2018, 12:51 PM. Reason: edited for typo

          Comment


          • #6
            I got a Rockler table a few years ago, and bought a Bosch 1617 variable speed router for it. The router came with a plunge base and a fixed one, the latter of which works great under the table. It has a depth adjustment that can be accessed from the top of the table with an allen wrench. Nice setup without spending a fortune. I've used lots of routers, and currently own several. They have all been good, but I've kept three Bosch routers and gotten rid of some others.

            Comment


            • #7
              I own two Bosch 1617EVSPK router kits. They come with both fixed and plunge bases. One fixed base and one motor live full time in my Rockler table with shop-built cabinet underneath. It's easy to pull the motor out to change bits - just undo the latch, press the coarse adjuster's catch, and drop it out.

              My two plunge bases have Jasper circle guides attached full time.

              With the Bosch fixed base, it is possible to use a hex wrench to adjust the height of the bit above the table. In my case, it's just as easy to turn the under-table depth adjuster to do the same thing. Both work fine.

              Here's my Rockler table showing the hex wrench in position for adjusting bit height....

              Bill Schneider
              -+-+-+-+-
              www.afterness.com/audio

              Comment


              • #8
                I have this Triton router and the same Bosch table and I love it. http://www.tritontools.com/en-CA/Pro...Routers/MOF001 I think I had to drill a hole for the lift crank but I never use it since I can reach the lift controls easily. It has separate course and fine lift controls. It's a well thought out tool for router table use and It has features like an automatic spindle lock when you raise the bit all the way up so you only need one wrench. Highly recommended.

                Ron
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                The good thing about science is that it's true whether or not you believe in it. - Neil deGrasse Tyson
                http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cjuGCJJUGsg

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                • #9

                  As mentioned by several, all (or likely most) Bosch and some others have common features that'll be important to you.

                  Easy motor insert/extract from fixed to plunge (or anything else) by simple clamp push. When I got the kit in 2014 literally the first thing I did was mount the fixed base to my solid aluminum router table which has a full cabinet, power strips, on/off and all that jazz. Popping the motor in / out takes seconds. Pull tension clamp, push release clamp, motor drops down ready to put in the plunge or anything else. Since the plunge base on my model is so excellent I've never needed to use the fixed base anywhere else, so it just stays in the table.

                  Also again common and important is the adjustments. Allen wrench (supplied with the routers in most or all cases) explicitly meant for adjustments to it while it's mounted to a table. Just make sure you line up the access hole for the wrench from top-down access when you attach the base under the table top.

                  Most plates I've seen have an assortment of attachment holes for a set of standardized models, or at-least the most common models. You'll likely have no problems at all being able to line up for a good fit which ever router you wind up going with.

                  My only true recommended advice is to not get a low HP router. There's a huge number of mid to high quality routers from several manufacturers in your price range that you'll be plenty happy with if they have features you're interested in. If you go with a low HP model you'll just regret it after you constantly bog it down and burn the crap out of everything you try to use it on, save really thin stuff or extremely shallow repeated passes trying to prevent it.
                  Feel free to rip my assumptions apart when wrong, or fix if close.

                  Passive Radiators:
                  All PR(s) Vd must be at-least double all woofer(s) Vd. Calc = Sd x Xmax to get Vd for all PR(s) and all woofer(s). A combined PR(s) Vd equal or > than a combined woofer(s) Vd is usable.
                  Woofer(s) with large Xmax vs Sd, all PR(s) with Xmax at-least double all woofer(s) Xmax is usable.
                  A PR max weight is said to be its Mms x3

                  PR Systems - tight focus with key parameters.
                  PR Speaker Design - thorough coverage.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Ron_E View Post
                    I have this Triton router ... It has separate course and fine lift controls...
                    Ron
                    Love this feature on mine as well. Been 6 or 8 months since I've routed due to health and other issues but as I recall the course on mine is a 1/16th increment step-spindle and uses a lock rod with measurement strip you then set and you're ready to rock. Fine adjustments after that is a breeze and gets into incredible micro precision adjustments. I wind up using a precision digital caliper in combination with that on scrap, which most probably do, and it's ready to rock producing amazing prefect outcomes.

                    A quality circle jig is definitely one of the best things ever invented too, as are steel case router bit assortment kits and so much other stuff. Routing is addictive. If I actually had a garage big enough to turn into a real wood shop I can only imagine how much cash would be dumped in tools, but likely enough to buy another house and then some. Maybe some day. Maybe. It's a fun dream to have.

                    Feel free to rip my assumptions apart when wrong, or fix if close.

                    Passive Radiators:
                    All PR(s) Vd must be at-least double all woofer(s) Vd. Calc = Sd x Xmax to get Vd for all PR(s) and all woofer(s). A combined PR(s) Vd equal or > than a combined woofer(s) Vd is usable.
                    Woofer(s) with large Xmax vs Sd, all PR(s) with Xmax at-least double all woofer(s) Xmax is usable.
                    A PR max weight is said to be its Mms x3

                    PR Systems - tight focus with key parameters.
                    PR Speaker Design - thorough coverage.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Ron_E View Post
                      I have this Triton router and the same Bosch table and I love it. http://www.tritontools.com/en-CA/Pro...Routers/MOF001 I think I had to drill a hole for the lift crank but I never use it since I can reach the lift controls easily. It has separate course and fine lift controls. It's a well thought out tool for router table use and It has features like an automatic spindle lock when you raise the bit all the way up so you only need one wrench. Highly recommended.

                      Ron
                      Yes, this^^^! I have the 3.25HP Triton in my Wolfcraft router table. The rack and pinion adjustment is really a nice touch, and you can raise the bit all the way up to where it auto-latches and change it without removal from the table. Dust extraction port, and a fully encased cutting cage for minimal mess. This is highly recommended for a table-dedicated device, IMO, and the price is good too.

                      Ditto, and I love mine!
                      Wolf
                      "Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
                      "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
                      "He is a true ambassador for this forum and speaker DIY in general." -Ed Froste
                      "We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith

                      *InDIYana event website*

                      Photobucket pages:
                      http://photobucket.com/Wolf-Speakers_and_more

                      My blog/writeups/thoughts here at PE:
                      http://techtalk.parts-express.com/blog.php?u=4102

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I have the same router table and use my Bosch 1617 router with it. I have the older version of the Bosch under-table router base (RA1164) permanently attached to the table, and just slide the router on and off as needed. That's not as convenient as having a second router always on the table, but it's not too bad (and obviously cheaper).

                        I like the table and fence just fine, but I absolutely hate the featherboards. The ones on the table fit only in several fixed keyhole slots, and moving them is a hassle (slow). The ones on the fence are much worse. They use a weird slot-and-spacer mounting method. It takes forever to Mount them, and the spacers always fall off. I thing Bosch should fire the guy who "engineered" these things, hire him back, and fire him again. They are that bad. I see that some others here own this table; how do you guys deal with the featherboards?

                        Ron

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by tomhawkins View Post
                          Ahoy, all!
                          I recently acquired a Bosch router table which I’m excited to work with. It’s the Bosch RA1181 Benchtop Router Table, and I was curious if anyone has any recommendations for a router to go with it. I currently have an old plunge router from Harbor Freight, so I’m looking to get a new router for this table. I expect that the router I get will be a dedicated router for the table, but I suppose I may take it out from time to time.

                          Although I have used router tables before, I have never set one up. I’m not sure what is considered desirable for a router table router, so any suggestions you have would be awesome. Also, I heard from a friend of mine that Porter-Cable routers are not always compatible with other brands and that I should check ahead of time to make sure I don’t get something I can’t use. My price range is $100-$250ish. I had been looking at PORTER-CABLE 895PK, but I wasn’t sure if it would fit because of what my friend said. Anyway, if someone could steer me towards something good I’d appreciate it. Thanks!

                          If you want a router table that comes with more than just a table, this Kreg set is a good option because it comes loaded with features and extra accessories. some of other recommendation is;


                          1) Metal legs and a convenient power switch on the front make this PORTER-CABLE model one of the top router tables.

                          2) Bosch designed this table to work with wood routers from some of the top manufacturers in the industry and includes all the hardware needed for mounting.

                          3) Craftsman is one of the only manufacturers we found that included both a router table and router in one convenient package.

                          4) When you want something lightweight that you can easily put together, this deluxe bench top router table is a suitable option.



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