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TC Epic 12 - Dual PR Build

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  • TC Epic 12 - Dual PR Build

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    Thanks to Chris Roemer for helping with the modeling. Got all the sides cut and did a press fit. I have to re-cut one of the PR sides (dumb mistake), and still need to do the internal bracing, but excited to visibly see it come together.

  • #2
    Looks pretty beefy... like I probably wouldn't be able to lift it.
    Wonder what it will weigh when assembled and complete?
    Nice, I like it! Keep the pics coming as you progress if you wouldn't mind!

    TomZ
    *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
    *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF *Cello's Speaker Project Page

    *Building the "Micro-B 2.1 Plate Amplifier -- Part 1 * Part 2 * Part 3 * Part 4 * * Part 5 'Review' * -- Assembly Instructions PDF

    Comment


    • #3
      I don't know if I should start a new thread, but it is a single 15" PR instead of (2) 12" PRs. The new PR just arrived today and it is HUGE. I've never worked with a 15" driver before. All the sides are cut. I hope to assemble with all the internal bracing this weekend.
      Last edited by Ironman129; 10-25-2018, 09:38 AM.

      Comment


      • #4

        Loving to see more PR's show up over time. Can you post links to the PR and driver, or at-least model # so can locate and look at their specs?

        The above sounds like a single 15" PR supporting 2x 12" woofers. Is that correct? Definitely like to see the Xmas and other parameters.

        Is the woofer this one?
        293-658

        What about the PR?
        Do I guess correctly it's this?
        295-504

        After re-reading the top I'm guessing your last was simply inverted, and it's probably 2x15"PR with 1x12" Woofer?

        Otherwise the woofers would blow the PR off the basket by 20+mm Xmax.
        Last edited by Thump; 10-25-2018, 04:33 AM. Reason: Clarified
        Feel free to rip my assumptions apart when wrong, or fix if close.

        Passive Radiators:
        All PR(s) Vd must at-least double all woofer(s) Vd. Calc = Sd x Xmax to get Vd for all PR(s) and all woofer(s). If all PR(s) Vd at-least double all woofer(s) Vd they'll work.
        For woofer(s) with large Xmax vs Sd, all PR(s) with Xmax at-least double all woofer(s) Xmax will work.
        A PR max weight is said to be its Mms x3

        PR Systems - tight focus with key parameters.
        PR Speaker Design - thorough coverage.

        Comment


        • #5
          1 12" woof, 1 15" PR

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Thump View Post
            Loving to see more PR's show up over time. Can you post links to the PR and driver, or at-least model # so can locate and look at their specs?

            The above sounds like a single 15" PR supporting 2x 12" woofers. Is that correct? Definitely like to see the Xmas and other parameters.

            Is the woofer this one?
            293-658

            What about the PR?
            Do I guess correctly it's this?
            295-504

            After re-reading the top I'm guessing your last was simply inverted, and it's probably 2x15"PR with 1x12" Woofer?

            Otherwise the woofers would blow the PR off the basket by 20+mm Xmax.
            This is the PR:
            https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...iator--295-504

            This is the driver:
            https://www.parts-express.com/tc-sou...oofer--293-650

            1 15" PR in a 1.75cf enclosure. The PR will be front firing, and the subwoofer will be downfiring. I am attempting to rear mount the PR just because I think it looks nice and clean!

            Comment


            • #7
              Ok cool. That 15" specs will easily handle 1 of those 12" - nice looking PR too, from construction aspect not just visual. I just saw the other related model thread where CR is helping nail down the real meat specs. With 575g added you're just under the PR estimated max safe weight so definitely good call on placement. If you brace it well you'll probably have a nice, simple, anvil of a ground pounder once they loosen up.

              If you do rear face the PR just keep it a bit from the wall to eliminate mass loading against the PR.
              Feel free to rip my assumptions apart when wrong, or fix if close.

              Passive Radiators:
              All PR(s) Vd must at-least double all woofer(s) Vd. Calc = Sd x Xmax to get Vd for all PR(s) and all woofer(s). If all PR(s) Vd at-least double all woofer(s) Vd they'll work.
              For woofer(s) with large Xmax vs Sd, all PR(s) with Xmax at-least double all woofer(s) Xmax will work.
              A PR max weight is said to be its Mms x3

              PR Systems - tight focus with key parameters.
              PR Speaker Design - thorough coverage.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Thump View Post
                Ok cool. That 15" specs will easily handle 1 of those 12" - nice looking PR too, from construction aspect not just visual. I just saw the other related model thread where CR is helping nail down the real meat specs. With 575g added you're just under the PR estimated max safe weight so definitely good call on placement. If you brace it well you'll probably have a nice, simple, anvil of a ground pounder once they loosen up.

                If you do rear face the PR just keep it a bit from the wall to eliminate mass loading against the PR.
                Yeah, I ended up scrapping that first build. Was able to keep the 1.5" baffle for the TC Epic 12 though. That was nice! So this will be a completely new enclosure from the one in the original post.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Are we allowed to swear on this forum?!! I was doing a roundover on the inside circle and the baffle broke. The ply used in the translam was cheap, the $30 cabinet grade from HD with lots of voids. I should have filled the voids and built the enclosure before doing the work. So do I redo the translam or just do it out of MDF?

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    That translam baffle would have looked pretty cool! But if it broke that easily,I wonder how sturdy it would have really been? Maybe re-do the translam baffle and then add a 1/4" or 1/2" sheet of MDF or ply to the back side for extra strength? You wouldn't have to go the the very edges, if you need to avoid it showing, it could just be part of the interior front wall and adding extra width to the front baffle on powerful subs is pretty common anyway.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Ironman129 View Post
                      Are we allowed to swear on this forum?!! I was doing a roundover on the inside circle and the baffle broke. The ply used in the translam was cheap, the $30 cabinet grade from HD with lots of voids. I should have filled the voids and built the enclosure before doing the work. So do I redo the translam or just do it out of MDF?
                      So easy to do. It can be even easier (by a lot) to break MDF like that. I found early from working with the material the #1 most important factor, above anything else for me, is making sure it's supported and not carrying its own weight, and not depending on it's own tensile strength when cutting details, especially where thin / narrow areas are involved.

                      I have tendency to get distracted and in a hurry. Those are the times things break because I'm not paying attention. Having it absolutely immobile and supported by something else is the only reason I didn't wind up breaking baffles when doing cut outs, round overs and back side reliefs.

                      After a baffle was completed I used a brush and wood hardener on driver cut outs and any narrow areas. Some on the forums soak the entire baffles submerged in hardener.
                      Feel free to rip my assumptions apart when wrong, or fix if close.

                      Passive Radiators:
                      All PR(s) Vd must at-least double all woofer(s) Vd. Calc = Sd x Xmax to get Vd for all PR(s) and all woofer(s). If all PR(s) Vd at-least double all woofer(s) Vd they'll work.
                      For woofer(s) with large Xmax vs Sd, all PR(s) with Xmax at-least double all woofer(s) Xmax will work.
                      A PR max weight is said to be its Mms x3

                      PR Systems - tight focus with key parameters.
                      PR Speaker Design - thorough coverage.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Thump View Post

                        So easy to do. It can be even easier (by a lot) to break MDF like that. I found early from working with the material the #1 most important factor, above anything else for me, is making sure it's supported and not carrying its own weight, and not depending on it's own tensile strength when cutting details, especially where thin / narrow areas are involved.

                        I have tendency to get distracted and in a hurry. Those are the times things break because I'm not paying attention. Having it absolutely immobile and supported by something else is the only reason I didn't wind up breaking baffles when doing cut outs, round overs and back side reliefs.

                        After a baffle was completed I used a brush and wood hardener on driver cut outs and any narrow areas. Some on the forums soak the entire baffles submerged in hardener.
                        That's exactly what happened. Going too fast, not paying attention and being a little careless.

                        I have 4 sides glued up now. The top in the picture is just set in place to make sure everything stays square. I have the two vertical braces still to finish and then remake the baffle for the passive radiator.

                        Comment

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