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  • Soundbar Help

    Hi Guys,

    I'm looking to build a soundbar for the bedroom, I decided to get one of the bluetooth amp plus full range driver kits, drivers are the DA PC83-4

    https://www.parts-express.com/60-wat...vers--300-7306

    Of course once it was paid for and shipped all the way to Australia I started thinking about adding a sub, doh. I figure I will build a Voxel and use the kit I bought to build a portable bluetooth speaker instead.

    I noticed the new Lepai 2.1 plate amp LP2010PA which looks like it would be a good fit for the soundbar plus sub, it's small and has a good range of adjustments, volume on sub and speakers, crossover and 6 dB per octave high pass at 100 Hz.

    https://www.parts-express.com/lepai-...3118--310-4002

    Now I've started wondering if the drivers a bit too budget now that I'm adding the Voxel? I found a few sound bar ideas here, a Sonata one member built or the Helium Soundbar. I also found Toid had paired these drivers with the DA ND20FB-4 tweeters.

    http://www.123toid.com/2017/12/the-r...ker-build.html

    I was also looking at the DA RS100-4 drivers as I would expect them to have a better quality sound but haven't found a 2-way design for them, I've never designed a crossover so would want to copy someone's design.

    I guess I'd appreciate any thoughts or pointers on the direction I should take, maybe the full range drivers plus sub will be totally fine or should I really add the tweeters? Are all of the driver options going to integrate fine with the Voxel? The bedroom is 12x13ft and the listening position would be about 11ft so I think output should be ok especially with the sub helping out but the soundbar will be off to the side and raised a bit so there may be some off-axis issues.

  • #2
    I'm currently working on a 'bar for TV applications. My recommendation is the SMSL Q5-Pro amplifier/DAC. 50W x 2, and takes optical from newer TVs, USB from PC/Laptop/network, and Coaxial SP/DIF. It also has a 3.5mm stereo input jack. In mine, I'm using the PC105-4 and AN25Ti-4 in my design, both TM channels. This will be an under-bar for placement under a TV, as you can't get much volume from those sticks you see in stores made of plastic.

    Good luck and have fun!
    Wolf
    "Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
    "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
    "He is a true ambassador for this forum and speaker DIY in general." -Ed Froste
    "We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith

    *InDIYana event website*

    Photobucket pages:
    http://photobucket.com/Wolf-Speakers_and_more

    My blog/writeups/thoughts here at PE:
    http://techtalk.parts-express.com/blog.php?u=4102

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks for the reply Wolf, the Q5-Pro looks pretty ideal for this sort of application although for my situation it might be a bit of overkill. I have a Mi Box connected to the TV which accounts for almost 100% of my usage so I can get away with something basic with just an analog input. Some of those features do look handy though but everyday I seem to be moving further away in cost from a 'cheap and basic soundbar' haha

      I'm really having to think a fair bit about the enclosure atm due to some design constraints I have. Presently the TV is sitting on a dresser with the screen extending to it's full width. The base extends forward of the screen so this kinda rules out placing a soundbar on the dresser in front. Separate speakers could work but then the viewable portion of the screen is only 3" above the top of the dresser so they would have to be tiny.

      I decided to make something that the TV would sit on top of, needing to be about 21" across and 12" deep to match the base of the TV, I came up with this in sketchup previously for the PC83 drivers

      Click image for larger version

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      However having a closer look at the dresser this morning I realised the top of the wooden dresser is probably only about 3/8" thick for most of it with the weight of the TV being supported by the central brace of the main frame. What I designed above if I put some feet on it would probably go through the top, not to mention the additional weight of the speaker on that one central piece of wood.

      So should I then make the soundbar 18x35" to match the size of the top of the dresser making the whole thing even bigger and heavier? At least it would distribute the weight more evenly across the dresser's frame but maybe I'm starting to push how much weight the whole thing can handle with a massive soundbar, 50" TV and Voxel sub? Maybe it's fine but I really don't know about such things.

      Maybe I should change direction and look at some micro 2-ways that might be small enough to sit in front of the screen or even mount to the sides of the screen in some way

      Comment


      • #4
        I was wondering when someone was going to use the PC105-4. I have had the parts to build the reveal design with the pc83-4 from 123toid, just have not gotten around to it.

        Comment


        • #5
          Wolf, is there something special about the AN25ti? Or is this just a parts on hand or price decision? Should we all run out and buy some?

          Comment


          • #6
            Special? Not likely. Price conscious, integrated grills, sensitive like the midbasses, and small for a close CTC. I don't even know how they perform yet. According to the specs, they should suit the project at hand and not break the bank. Being the sound-bar setup needs little to no BSC, I wanted to get tweeters to keep up with the midbasses, and these were likely a good option.

            The midbasses are kind of hard to get a good box alignment for, so that was a bit difficult.

            I will post details and a build thread when I have them,
            Wolf
            "Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
            "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
            "He is a true ambassador for this forum and speaker DIY in general." -Ed Froste
            "We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith

            *InDIYana event website*

            Photobucket pages:
            http://photobucket.com/Wolf-Speakers_and_more

            My blog/writeups/thoughts here at PE:
            http://techtalk.parts-express.com/blog.php?u=4102

            Comment


            • #7
              I think I was getting overly concerned with the size and weight before so I will stick with the basic idea I started with but will incorporate the Voxel into the centre portion of the soundbar in a down firing config.

              I've decided to ape tyger23's Canzonetta design with the RS100P-8 and ND16FA for the speakers, the volume will be a bit larger, about 4.5L vs 3.85 and a narrower baffle but I assume it should still work ok.
              http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...p-8-and-nd16fa

              I've mocked up the following, the main ideas are to match the width of the dresser so that with speaker feet attached the weight will be supported by the frame. The depth matches the TV base and I've tried to keep the height as low as possible so that I don't raise the TV up any higher than necessary.

              Click image for larger version

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              I've essentially tipped the Canzonettas on their sides with the tweeters on the outer most edges, is this sort of arrangement ok? Should I emulate the arrangement on the Helium soundbar with the woofer and tweeter more inboard and the tweeter raised a bit higher on the baffle?

              The Voxel I've basically just remodeled it for a larger enclosure as I have the space, so it's about 11L tuned to 38Hz. The port is front firing, ~2.5in ID and ~23in long. The enclosure was actually about 2L too big so going with a larger port killed two birds with one stone, avoiding any chuffing issues and taking up the excess space, I'll have to incorporate a couple 90 degree bends.

              I just need some help choosing the electrical components for the Canzonetta crossovers, I don't understand the differences between the various components, here is the schematic

              Click image for larger version  Name:	image_43785.jpg Views:	1 Size:	45.6 KB ID:	1393747

              Here is what I've put together on PE, are these correct or are there better/cheaper options? I couldn't find a 0.22mH Inductor with 20 AWG, does this matter?

              Click image for larger version  Name:	Cart.JPG Views:	1 Size:	52.3 KB ID:	1393748
              Last edited by dtb; 11-16-2018, 09:21 PM.

              Comment


              • #8
                The 0.22mH is shown as a 20AWG, and you've selected an 18AWG. The DCR will be a little different, but not by much. It's virtually negligible for the small amount of resistance that will be omitted. If you feel you can't get a 20AWG coil, and want absolute accuracy, use a 0.1 ohm/5W resistor in series with the 0.22mH/18AWG coil to compensate the difference. I would not think it's mandatory.

                Later,
                Wolf
                "Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
                "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
                "He is a true ambassador for this forum and speaker DIY in general." -Ed Froste
                "We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith

                *InDIYana event website*

                Photobucket pages:
                http://photobucket.com/Wolf-Speakers_and_more

                My blog/writeups/thoughts here at PE:
                http://techtalk.parts-express.com/blog.php?u=4102

                Comment


                • #9
                  Thanks Wolf, I watched the Kirby Meets Audio youtube vid on designing crossovers last night so I understand a little better now how these things work and the difference the 20 vs 18 AWG might make. You've confirmed what I suspected that it would only be a minor difference.

                  I think I'm ready to move forward now but I might just hold off ordering to see if I might save a few dollars with Black Friday next week

                  Comment

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