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A theorized commission: "Bar-Gain"...

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  • Wolf
    replied
    Well- he was extremely happy!

    ...and now hopefully I can resume the Tandems process.

    Later,
    Wolf

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  • Wolf
    replied
    One last note before I deliver this Soundbar to the customer....

    I ended up polyfil stuffing the inner front half of the xover cavity. As it turns out, this was ringing a bit as the music excited the panels. Since the xover is in the aft portion, and the board is empty up front, this is of no thermal concern. This solution definitely resolved the problem and the bar sounds better than before.

    Final notes- the tweeters are not the cleanest out there in terms of HD, but they are articulate and do the job. The PC105 really makes lower piano sound right in timbre and tone. I also feel the drivers blend fairly well together.

    Later,
    Wolf

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  • Wolf
    replied
    To be honest, I've actually done it before. I have not however done a comparison of fuse vs. switch-bypass.

    Later,
    Wolf

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  • Psycoacoustics
    replied
    Ok, I get it.

    Put the fuses in,,,,, watch the SAME movie and,,,,,, tell me you DON’T hear a difference!

    In your ears I trust!

    Later, Mark

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  • Wolf
    replied
    If one of their buddies decides to crank it to 11, I'd hate for the tweeters to give up the ghost.
    Practicing safe use of electronics is a learned skill, but not all know the skill.
    Wolf

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  • Psycoacoustics
    replied
    Wait,,,,, someone who can hear differences in caps is going to put "FUSES" on the drivers?

    Oh the Humanity!

    Have Fun! Mark

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  • Wolf
    replied
    BTW- I dropped the sub xover to 2 clicks below 12-noon. The spoken word of some actors on the movie I watched tended to be a bit chesty. This solved the issue.

    I feel it sounds pretty good and clean as it sits!

    Now to do the gluing of parts on the xovers to make them more permanent, and to install a back panel over them to keep out fingers and/or vermin in the chance they occur.
    I'm still thinking about some 1A slow-blow fuses on the drivers for safety sake. We'll see if I get that far...

    Later,
    Wolf

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  • Wolf
    replied
    Click image for larger version

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    Not bad, eh?
    Wolf

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  • Wolf
    replied
    Just for reference, the sub used with this is based on the TB W6-1139, in a vented 0.4ft^3 vented box. The dimensions are that of a long box with the driver in the side, the amp on the one end, and the rounded port exit on the other. External dimensions are 20" long, 7.5" deep, and 8.75" high with a 1.5" diameter x 10.5" long port. The box is made from 1/2" plywood. A single U-brace internally stiffens the plywood structure, and there is a little open cell foam inside, but not much. Tuning is approximately 30Hz (It's been about 14 years since I built this!) The 70W plate amp fits snugly in the end, flush with the sides of the enclosure.

    Listening- this blend is fairly good! I have the sub xover set at 12-noon, and the gain at one click north of 12-noon. For this purpose/session, I have the sub sitting atop the bar for a close proximity setup.

    I'm about to watch a movie...
    Wolf

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  • Wolf
    replied
    Being a Soundbar, the best I thought would be to use a barrier strip and ring terminals to wire this up. In retrospect, 2 strips per board would likely be a better idea. I used the 18" length of the tweeter lead and cut the lead for the midbass to match. Attaching them one at a time, I can get them secured just outside of the rear of the bar. Of course- the leads are glue-sealed where they exit their respective chambers. This means I can't change the length easily at this point. There is minimal slack inside the chamber, basically just enough for removal of the drivers if necessary. I did solder the leads to the PC105-4 for reliability.

    I will be adding adhesive to key points on the xover boards to make sure they don't become unglued/ajar. This also prevents zip-tie failure being catastrophic. Since I unwound the on-hand coils to value, and wound the other 2 myself, I used the longer leads to my advantage. They should be far enough apart t keep mutual inductance low. FWIW, I did measure the values in place adjacent the steel barrier strip, and the 0.75mH coil value went up 0.015mH, so the effect is minimal. The barrier is wired amp (blue) +/-, tweeter +/-, woofer +/-, just for reference. I used jumpers on the ground connections. Boards are mirror-imaged to allow better connection positioning. The 2.7 ohm resistor is under the 0.22uF Dayton cap.

    Pictures:
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    Thanks for looking,
    Wolf

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  • Wolf
    replied
    Okay! Xover schematic has been finalized. Through the listening of more familiar cuts than before, the treble was a little hot/spitty. I upped the series resistor to 2.7 ohms from 2.2 ohms, and this resolved this issue. Depending on the room and placement, I'm providing a range of attenuation for the tweeter. Some may like a softer treble for music, but some may use this for movies and want more shimmer/impact. At the 2.7 ohm spot there is enough detail, and it's not overbearing. It is not bright at least by my standards. Hi-hats and snares aren't overly sharp either. My preference would be 2.7-3.3 ohms, but up to 4 ohms wouldn't be uncalled for depending on the person.

    FWIW, I did do an extensive stint in Xsim trying to see if I could do this cheaper and/or better the result. I had one result I tried, but I hated the sound of it. The woofer became shouty, and that is not where this should be. I'm really betting the dips below 1K are just reflections or floor-bounce, as they do not seem to need to be compensated. When compensated, they do get shouty.

    For those interested, please see the xover here:

    Click image for larger version

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    Be advised that this could easily adapt to an on-wall or desktop use, because the BSC is minimal. Just rotate 90* for desktop. I included the dims for a reason, as the xover applies to this layout as they are.

    I'll be adding the subwoofer to the mix shortly and see what should be changed or amended. Due to the early rolloff inherent, I do not believe that a highpass should be a requirement at this point from sub to 'bar. The excursion is really well controlled in this damped-sealed alignment, and I think the SMSL might already have a light rolloff involved.

    More later,
    Wolf

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  • Wolf
    replied
    Likely appropriate for this thread, a discussion of commercial soundbars and their processing...
    https://www.audioxpress.com/article/...nal-processing

    Later,
    Wolf

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  • xmax
    replied
    Listening to some of the newer units, the all in one surround is actually pretty cool.
    Of course it is not as good as having speakers all over your living room but I still
    would like to know more about the tech, has anyone seen anything available
    as a development tool for this sort of thing? I like the idea of aiming audio
    out of boxes, compromises or not.

    Leave a comment:


  • chrisn
    replied
    Looks good and strong Ben

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  • xmax
    replied
    Now I want a ice cream sandwich. Gotta love gorilla glue for foaming up and sealing "squirrel holes"
    (what we call mid chambers).

    Leave a comment:

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