Midwest Audio Fest

It’s that time audio enthusiasts! Registration for the 2019 Speaker Design Competition is now open! Visit for details and to list your speaker project. We are excited to see all returning participants, and look forward to meeting some new designers this year, as well! Be sure your plans include a visit to the Parts Express Tent Sale for the lowest prices of the year, and the Audio Swap Meet where you can buy and trade with other audio fans. We hope to see you this summer! Vivian and Jill
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2.1 Stereos for the project sub.

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  • 2.1 Stereos for the project sub.

    Allow me to start with a sincere thank you to all of the help you all have given so far and I hope that you will continue. I purchased the Lepai 2.1 amp and built a sub to go along with the C-notes that I had built earlier. I think the C-notes are just too good to go with my 1st attempt sub (which I did almost every single thing wrong in). You can search for "less than stellar bass" for that fiasco. I am wanting to experiment with a few different drivers and enclosure styles to see what sounds best and works best for me. I hit the clearance, close out, and sale pages and picked up a few items. For the 2" wide range I got: 2 LaVoce FSF020.50 2" Ferrite Full-Range Woofer 8 Ohm and 2 AuraSound NSW2-326-8AT Whisper 2" Extended Range Speaker Driver 8 Ohm. I also got a 3" Tectonic TEBM46C20N-4B BMR 3" Full-Range Speaker 4 Ohm and for fun, a 4" Visaton R10SC-4 4" Fullrange Speaker 4 Ohm. The 2" seem to like about a 0.05 cuft enclosure if I read correctly. I would like it ported but I didn't see any port info on it. I have also been reading here and saw some have had great success with open baffle style mounting and would like to try that as well. Any tips or tricks (that a caveman can understand) are greatly appreciated.

    I'm enjoying my new hobby and slowly learning a thing or two. I'm still horrible at soldering, still know almost nothing about crossover design, and don't have a clue about Qs and Xs and T3s and all that.................. but I'm learning.

  • #2
    hang in there ... it takes time to learn.

    my advice is to dissect the projects from the experts to learn.

    build the well-known and tried-and-true speakers first.

    then branch out on your own


    • #3
      I got the idea from one of the projects on the project page. It was super high end with CNC milled aluminium pieces and such. I'm shooting for the redneck garage version. I'll try to link the project later.

      Ok, one project was this one with plywood.

      This is the open baffle project:

      This is the super high end desktops:

      Last edited by BTRaulerson; 12-24-2018, 12:48 PM.


      • #4
        I'm using scrap wood and MDF to try the open baffle design. I had a scrap 2x6 and I cut it into pieces and drilled a 3" hole in the center and I'm using the pieces as an adjustable cabinet for the sealed/ported designs. I literally clamp another piece on to make the enclosure bigger. What I'm having trouble with is the port size and length for the ported designs. Is there a website that tells you or a free program or app?


        • #5
          WinISD is free from
          Start w/the simpler vers. "alpha" (all you need for a box model is Qts, Fs, and Vas).
          Then go on to the more advanced "beta" (a.k.a. "Pro") vers. Gotta enter more data, but it tells you a LOT more.
          AFAIK, the Tectonic 3" should give you the bass you're looking for.


          • #6
            Thank you for the suggestions and link Chris. I downloaded the most recent file but didn't see a PRO option. I'm installing now. I tried an open baffle last night on the 3" Tectonic. It sounded pretty good (as far as my caveman ears could tell) but lacked any sort of bottom end. I tried it in my make-shift enclosure and it didn't sound very good. It also crackled a bit where it didn't on the open baffle. Yeah, Christmas night and I'm in the shed monkeying around with speakers. Everyone was fed and happy so I decided to have a little me time.


            • #7
              I'm not sure I'm using the program correctly. It shows a 0.05cu/ft enclosure for a pair of the Aurasounds. It shows a port in the box but it doesn't show the port size. Any suggestions? If possible, I'd like to know the enclosure and port size for the pair of LaVoce 2".

              Edit: I need reading glasses. The reason it told me i needed a 537 inch long port tube is because I entered the wrong information and had the wrong measurement type selected.
              Last edited by BTRaulerson; 12-31-2018, 12:53 PM. Reason: I can't read.


              • #8
                A great book is "SpeakerBuilding 201" by Ray Alden.

                When you pick a vented box (in WinISD) it "defaults" to a certain box size and tuning. You can see that in the default "tab" (Box). Click on the "Vents" tab to see port I.D.s and lengths. ISD defaults to about a 4"id port (for some reason). While that's a good dia. for many 12" (and even some 10") woofers, it's silly for a 2" driver. For a 2", I'd click on the size and type over it with 0.75".

                That said, 2" drivers can be quite disappointing (many times not even reaching low enough to be able to meet up with a "sub" - which is in the 80-120Hz range or so). If you want to use 2 of your 2" drivers in one box (like a boombox), you still need each to have its own airspace (so they don't interact in a bad way).
                You COULD put a pair of either the NSW2s OR the FSF020s in a single 0.05cf box (but partitioned so each gets its own 0.025cf) with each side also having its own port. A 3/4"id x 2" long port tube works for either driver. These will barely reach 120Hz, and the LaVoce will distort much quicker due to its very limited 1mm of "Xmax" (the AURA has nearly twice that amount).


                • #9
                  Chris, if you are ever in Jacksonville Florida, I owe you lunch. Thanks for putting all that in simple, human English. I'm off for the next three days and will have some fun in the garage (after I repair the water line to the ice maker). Could you shed some light on another part of WinISD please? I tried googling the alignment terms and didn't find anything I could understand. What is: Quasi-Butterworth, Super Boom Box, Chebyshev, and Extended Bass?


                  • #10
                    Those terms (while not inaccurate) are a little "outdated" (from back in the day before cool programs like WinISD gave you an infinite continuum of alignments). It used to be that you'd pick one of a handful of standard alignments, then get out the calculator (or slide rule) to find a box volume and tuning freq. to get you there. If you pick an actual "woofer" (like a 6"er, none of these shrimpy 2" full-range drivers) and pick those alignments, you can get up to 10 on-screen all at once and you can compare them.

                    One really neat thing that ISD does (but it takes a bit of practice to get good at it) is that you can put your cursor into the little box diagram, then click and hold down the mouse button, then slowly drag the cursor up/down and left/right to actually sort of "draw" a rolloff curve you like. The readout boxes will show you the volumes and tuning freqs. you ended up with.


                    • #11
                      Is there a way I can upload my project from WinISD?


                      • #12
                        I think most would just post a screen capture ("PrtScr" key).