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  • #16
    Originally posted by skatz View Post
    I don't know a lot, but I think that wood movement with humidity changes is one reason for the preference for MDF and plywood in speaker boxes, they are more dimensionally stable with environmental changes. With two different wood types in a box, if one expands/contracts more than the others it could crack the joints. You are not using veneer, but that could possibly be a problem if used on different wood types.
    By the way, that walnut you have is gorgeous!
    Well, real wood expands differently in different directions, so in any case any solid wood box will experience uneven expansion/contraction unless every single face is oriented in the same direction (which never happens, since we get our wood from boards, and glue them together: the only way to make it happen would be to carve the box out of a solid block... but even solid wood cracks due to expansion contraction). MDF has no fibers, so face orientation doesn't matter, but even MDF expends differently longitudinally and across the section (hence all the MDF boxes showing joints after a few years, especially the gloss painted ones).

    I'm not sure that adding plywood to the equation in this case would make much difference in the overall stress applied to the joints. The good thing with solid wood, is that small differences in the joints won't show as much as a glossy painted MDF box, and the wood grain itself will hide any small joint expansion, especially if finished with a thin oil finish (i.e. not a glossy finish with a lot of buildup, where cracks in the finish would show up)

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    • #17
      Originally posted by Ron Stewart View Post
      Thanks for your comment on my sled' Scott. I guess it looks better in photos, because it's just ugly MDF. I'm happy with it, though.

      It's odd that your digital gauge didn't yield a 45-degree angle, but your method using the triangles obviously did the trick. I wouldn't try to work in my garage at -10C either!

      Regarding wood movement, I think you'd be better off using walnut for the base. The walnut is going to move mostly across the grain (from front to back), and the plywood won't move as much. Your cabinet sides look pretty wide, so the amount of movement may be non-trivial. I'm sure you can find a chart somewhere that will give you an actual value.
      Thanks Ron,
      I did look at a wood calculator, and determined that the cabinets sides which are 13.5" deep might experience up to 3mm of movement given a humidity variance of 5%. I don't know what moisture content my walnut is. It was purchased from a store that dries their slabs for long periods of time before milling and selling them, so I guessed at 5%.

      I was planning on doing a high gloss finish with Arm-R-Seal poly. Hopefully I don't experience any cracking!

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      • #18
        Time for an update!

        I've managed to get most of the woodwork done, the only items remaining are the recesses and holes for the drivers and then roundovers.

        So, pictures:
        Boxes turned out pretty good.

        So next steps are the recesses and cutouts for drivers then glue the baffle.
        Rear plate drilling
        Roundovers on baffle and sides
        Crossover soldering
        LISTEN

        and then my most anticipated part - FINISH application!

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        • #19
          One crossover wired up:

          Note to DanP I didn't get the ERSE Super Q coils for the woofer crossover components as they were about $22 each. What's the difference between those and what I got? The DCR was about the same and within what you spec'd for the crossover. Will I hear a difference? Should I plan on swapping out for Super Q's?

          Router is set up for the test cuts for the woofer and tweeter rebates. Garage is so cold....so I got out for like 10 min at a time.

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          • #20
            Originally posted by scottvalentin View Post

            Thanks Ron,
            I did look at a wood calculator, and determined that the cabinets sides which are 13.5" deep might experience up to 3mm of movement given a humidity variance of 5%. I don't know what moisture content my walnut is. It was purchased from a store that dries their slabs for long periods of time before milling and selling them, so I guessed at 5%.

            I was planning on doing a high gloss finish with Arm-R-Seal poly. Hopefully I don't experience any cracking!
            Walnut with Arm-R-Seal is my fav! I will be following yours!
            Attached Files
            Audiophiles listen to the equipment, not the music.

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            • #21
              Originally posted by scottvalentin View Post
              One crossover wired up:

              Note to DanP I didn't get the ERSE Super Q coils for the woofer crossover components as they were about $22 each. What's the difference between those and what I got? The DCR was about the same and within what you spec'd for the crossover. Will I hear a difference? Should I plan on swapping out for Super Q's?

              Router is set up for the test cuts for the woofer and tweeter rebates. Garage is so cold....so I got out for like 10 min at a time.
              Coming along nicely, Scott!

              As long as the DCR is similar, you won't hear a difference - keep it as is and don't think twice about it.

              Dan
              _____________________________
              Tall Boys
              NRNP Computer Sub
              The Boxers
              The Hurricanes
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              Conneccentric
              UX3

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              • #22
                Originally posted by DanP View Post

                Coming along nicely, Scott!

                As long as the DCR is similar, you won't hear a difference - keep it as is and don't think twice about it.

                Dan
                Thanks Dan - I can sleep again lol

                Also Steve Henry those look fantastic! I did a test piece with Arm-R-Seal and then one with Osmo Poly-x and the wife liked the Osmo Poly-x better. It's a very nice finish, la hardwax oil, and also extremely easy to apply, just doesn't have the gloss and doesn't build up like a traditional polyurethane.

                The wood just out of the planer is beautiful, so I just have to not screw it up!

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by Steve Henry View Post

                  Walnut with Arm-R-Seal is my fav! I will be following yours!
                  Here's the two finishes - very similar, just less build-up and gloss with the Poly-x (as you would expect of an oil).

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by scottvalentin View Post
                    I didn't get the ERSE Super Q coils for the woofer crossover components as they were about $22 each. What's the difference between those and what I got? The DCR was about the same and within what you spec'd for the crossover. Will I hear a difference?
                    I was just comparing an Erse Super Q inductor to the Erse I Core inductor earlier today and I could definitely hear a difference. I was a little surprised because I didn't really expect to hear much of any difference. The Super Q is quite a bit larger, you may need to adjust your layout if you decided to use them. I am glad that I bought one to try, I'll be buying one for the other side also.

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by Billet View Post

                      I was just comparing an Erse Super Q inductor to the Erse I Core inductor earlier today and I could definitely hear a difference. I was a little surprised because I didn't really expect to hear much of any difference. The Super Q is quite a bit larger, you may need to adjust your layout if you decided to use them. I am glad that I bought one to try, I'll be buying one for the other side also.
                      That's interesting - can you describe the difference you heard?

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by scottvalentin View Post

                        That's interesting - can you describe the difference you heard?
                        I would say the Super Q was smoother and a little bit louder than the I core. I had both inductors on top of my enclosure and could quickly move one test lead back and forth. I was listening to the mid woofer by itself, with a relatively high crossover point, so the iron core inductor was probably affecting the midrange also.
                        Last edited by Billet; 03-04-2019, 10:44 PM.

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                        • #27
                          Got the woofer rebate tests done - 2nd try. The first was about .5mm too big on the radius (where I drilled my pin on the router guide). I usually give a bit of wiggle room, but it was just a tad too much. 2nd try was perfect.

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