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Best location for port and placement of.driver?

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  • Best location for port and placement of.driver?

    Guys, having a bit of play with some.scrap pine and decided to kerf a piece in lieu of mitre joints. This "could" be a direct replacement for.the T-Line enclosure I previously built. Bit disappointed I had to use a brace this time to get the one piece to close....the boom.box the glue was adequate, but I did also give the a day to.dry.

    I would like to have a rectangular port less that 85mm wide, guessing 10mm high maybe on the front and use a round over bit on the router to pretty it up.

    The box should he about 0.15cuft to have it tuned to around 61Hz, used same as http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...3rutu5-boombox

    So considering this as it stands is 85mm wide (add 2*18mm pieces for ultimate width) and a front internal height of 305mm, which tapers off to the back, where do the gurus suggest the best placement is for the 3.5" Tectonic TEBM65C20F driver?

    I have added the TLines in for scale. I used the more expensive speaker as inspiration, hence the previous post of "passive radiators are they worth it" as I was going to mount one on the side

    Also i realise there is really no comparison, i just liked the shape and look of these, just not the $6900 price tag and these beautiful speakers also have a 5 1/2 sub, where mine will not.
    Attached Files

  • #2
    If these are for desktop use, ideally (unless you actually don't like the TEBM's on-axis highs) you'd like to aim them at your seated-ear-height.
    There's nothing wrong w/the overall layout of those BOENiCKEs. I think your port will only need to be about 5" long or so. (Generally a rear-mounted port has less potential to cause audible "problems".)

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    • #3
      Thanks as usual Chris I made a mistake with my calculations on the kerfing as the radius I chose was too small and I made a decision on the fly without thinking about the implications. I traced it and put it into CAD and actually will have a 0.170cu.ft enclosure and can tune this to 59Hz as you've suggested on the previous post.

      I've picked a location which will point towards my seated ear height, which I'm 6'2 well actually it will be more seated neck height.

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      • #4
        Chris, what do you think of the attached? do you think in your opinion that 59Hz is the lowest i can go without substituting anything? the Baffle is quite narrow considering the total width is 121mm and the driver is 95mm extents is wide. The boombox had a much wider baffle, so not sure if the combo of inductor and resistor in parallel are still relevant.

        i was looking to do some router work for the port, but place it at the rear as suggested, but it would appear that increasing the port surface area increases the length. I have some conduit down in the garage, which i think is 20mm, 25mm and maybe even 32mm, which i can use if required.

        I realise that in the grand scheme of things that these are budget drivers, i just enjoy a challenge of pushing them to their limits and try to make them sound better than what they are, so any advice will be taken
        Attached Files

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        • #5
          That box model looks fine (one of many). Uh... if anything, the boombox (mostly 'cause the driver is "reinforced" by a table/counter top) is the one that would need less baffle-step comp., not the other way around. So, I'd plan on using the LR filter on these as well. (Did you ever try rolling the top end off any on your T-lines, and apparently you didn't see the same need on the boombox?)

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          • #6
            As in putting the coil on the + on each? No I haven't tried that yet, I would have to order the parts and still waiting for payday unfortunately. I think the bright part of drivers was the podcasts I was listening to more than anything and I had a different chair for.sitting at my desk to watch Videos or play games that put my lower than the speaker, which may have played a part.

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            • #7
              Guys, have a dilemma on how to finish these. Originally I was going to paint the sides black, similar to my t line build, but torn between leaving these grain and putting a radiator (even though Chris raised a good point re port is free), or just going some conduit in the back and hiding it. Open to suggestions, but all I will be doing in the meantime is putting a round over on the sides. The driver will be from the T Line and sitting 1/3rd from the top, hopefully recessed depending on the width/round over etc. One will contain the DTA2 amp and volume knob, which might hide down the side somewhere.

              Ignore the gaps, these haven't been glued, sanded or finished in any eay, just held with a clamp at the back.
              Attached Files

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              • #8
                Chris Roemer, i have been going through my scrap pile and and have a piece of electrical conduit (19.5mm internal diameter) that works almost perfectly with a forsner bit. if i through the smaller diameter into winisd, the length shortens to 1.5 inches. Does this sound right to you?

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                • #9
                  Tuning's OK, but that's so small it could get you into chuffing territory.
                  If you did a pair of those, I'd shoot for about 4", each.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Chris Roemer View Post
                    Tuning's OK, but that's so small it could get you into chuffing territory.
                    If you did a pair of those, I'd shoot for about 4", each.
                    too easy, just put two ports 4inches ea, hopefully i can trim them back and sand them flush with the timber.

                    Had to Google chuffing, sounds horrible..... hopefully the two ports increases.the surface area and prevents it. Like usual I jumped the gun and installed twins.before googling....not.sure I will ever learn lol.
                    ​​​​
                    Last edited by 3rutu5; 01-20-2019, 07:11 AM.

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