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Will a passive radiator work with a full range driver (that has a whizzer cone)?

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  • Will a passive radiator work with a full range driver (that has a whizzer cone)?

    Does it make any sense to use a passive radiator with a full range speaker (that has a whizzer cone)?

    Lino

  • #2
    A passive radiator is, for all technical purposes, nothing but a port. If the speaker works well in a ported box, it will work fine with a passive radiator as well.
    Electronics engineer, woofer enthusiast, and musician.
    Wogg Music
    Published projects: PPA100 Bass Guitar Amp, ISO El-Cheapo Sub, Indy 8 2.1 powered sub, MicroSat, SuperNova Minimus

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    • #3
      Even despite the fact that it would lose its air seal? I would think that it would lose a substantial amount of power. BUT I am just a simple noob

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      • #4
        Not sure I follow you about the air seal?

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        • #5
          If you mean that the radiatior just flops around this is true, but you tune it with weight to resonate at a specific frequency to actually add to the low end, not losing it.

          What is the full range driver and passive radiator you are considering? Not all drivers are made to work in a passive radiator / ported (bass reflex) enclosure.

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          • #6
            When using a driver with a whizzer cone air is able to enter/ escape the cabinet around the whizzer cone, yes? If it is easier for air to enter/ escape the cabinet than drive the PR then the PR would move significantly less than in a cabinet that is completely airtight, yes?

            Off the tip top of my head:
            Driver: Dayton Audio RS-100-4
            PR: Dayton Audio ND105

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            • #7
              A whizzer cone would have nothing to do with it. If the driver had a sealed dust cap and a whizzer cone no air would exit the gap. If it was a phase plug, some air would be able to move but it would not affect tuning at all, so no need to worry about it.

              The RS100 does not have a whizzer cone, btw, just a phase plug. That pr should work with it but you may want two. A general rule of thumb is to have twice the area of radiators as the driver. I don’t have time to model it now, sorry.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by marceleonidas View Post
                When using a driver with a whizzer cone air is able to enter/ escape the cabinet around the whizzer cone, yes? If it is easier for air to enter/ escape the cabinet than drive the PR then the PR would move significantly less than in a cabinet that is completely airtight, yes?

                Off the tip top of my head:
                Driver: Dayton Audio RS-100-4
                PR: Dayton Audio ND105
                The RS100-4 doesn't have whizzer cone. That is a phase plug. The PR will work
                https://www.facebook.com/Mosaic-Audi...7373763888294/

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                • #9
                  It's actually a pole piece extension, a phase plug is something else entirely. Not that you're at fault in the misuse of the term, even Dayton gets it wrong. Many call pole piece extensions phase plugs because bullet style pole piece extensions look like phase plugs, but they don't act like phase plugs.
                  http://www.centauriaudio.com.au/diy/plugs.html

                  www.billfitzmaurice.com
                  www.billfitzmaurice.info/forum

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by billfitzmaurice View Post
                    It's actually a pole piece extension, a phase plug is something else entirely. Not that you're at fault in the misuse of the term, even Dayton gets it wrong. Many call pole piece extensions phase plugs because bullet style pole piece extensions look like phase plugs, but they don't act like phase plugs.
                    http://www.centauriaudio.com.au/diy/plugs.html
                    Interesting info, thanks Bill!

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by marceleonidas View Post
                      Even despite the fact that it would lose its air seal? I would think that it would lose a substantial amount of power. BUT I am just a simple noob
                      Ports don't lose power, they resonate and emit power from the driver back wave, which then adds to the front wave. A passive radiator does the same function. A port is a lot cheaper, and usually works as well.
                      Francis

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                      • #12
                        Typical use for a PR (which tend to co$t a bit more than a plastic or cardboard tube) is to tune a box low, where a port's length can become problematic.
                        I don't consider 70Hz low.

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                        • #13
                          I’m using an app on my phone at the moment that can’t do passives, but a ported box of 3.57L with a 1” diameter round port that is 3.3” long should give you a nice flat low end down to an f3 of 56hz. Doesn’t seem worth the cost of a pr unless you want it for aesthetics.

                          I would also plan to use a simple baffle step filter to make up for lost bass. A simple explanation of this is that when a speaker is on a small baffle away from the floor and walls, the long wavelength bass frequencies wrap around the box unreinforced and lose up to 6db (a lot). A simple contour filter sacrifices overall output but restores a flat fuller sounding response.

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                          • #14
                            A slightly bigger 5L box tuned to 60hz (1”d x 2.6”l port) will give a slight dip above tuning but lower your f3 to 52hz.

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