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The Defiants - InDIYana 2019 Build

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  • KEtheredge87
    replied
    Originally posted by skatz View Post
    Those are shaping up to be beautiful! Well done!

    Steve
    Thanks Steve I'm excited... I expect to be taking some port tuning impedance sweeps later tonight. Lots of little detail work to push these over the goal line!

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  • skatz
    replied
    Those are shaping up to be beautiful! Well done!

    Steve

    Leave a comment:


  • KEtheredge87
    replied
    Time for another update! There's been lots going on lately as I begin my mad dash to the finish line. I completed the last bits of router work required on these by cutting the holes for the ports as well as the through-holes for the drivers into the main cabinet. I used a downcut spiral bit to make a crisp cut through the maple veneer on these holes. These cabinets are still fairly heavy, but every little bit of material taken out helps!

    After the router work was done, I pulled out my flexible sanding block and PSA sandpaper to prep the cabinets for finish. I hit the cabinets with 120, 180, and 220 grit before moving on. Despite what I said earlier about using Arm-r-seal, I did some test finish pieces after watching some youtube videos from Woodworkers Source, and was amazed and how well the curls popped out with just a coat of Zinsser dewaxed shellac. I ended up using 3 coats of dewaxed shellac to create the slightest amber color with gorgeous grain definition, then moved on to 3 coats of General Finishes High Performance Semi-Gloss water based polyurethane. The HP did a great job and was pretty easy to apply with just a foam brush. Dries quick and doesn't smell awful in the process. Win!

    Tonight I will use tomzarbo 's method for baffle adhesion from his Encores to glue everything together. I have some 1/16" thick x 3/8" wide neoprene rubber gasket tape that I will run around the perimeter of the cabinet's front face, as well as the driver holes, then use some dabs of PL Premium on the dowels and flats to secure the front baffles to the cabinets. The neoprene gasket layer will help keep these things sealed off from air leaks as well as any possible PL premium squeezeout. I'll still be applying a layer of delicate surface masking tape to cover the cabinets in case I get squeeze out anyway! That PL Premium stuff stains everything!

    After 24 hours of clamping time I will be able to start doing some measurements for port tuning, frequency response, cabinet impedance, and ultimately XO building! Man this point has been a long time coming! I can't wait

    Photos from Left to right:
    1) Port tube cutout (exterior)
    2) Port tube placement (interior)
    3) Sanding schedule
    4) Curls / grain pop from Zinsser dewaxed shellac,
    5) Three coats of General Finishes High Performance semi-gloss polyurethane and buffing with fine synthetic abrasive pad.

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  • KEtheredge87
    replied
    Originally posted by Kevin K. View Post
    Looking good Keith! Love the Black binding post! Sure would be nice if PE carried their post in black (hint, hint, Parts Express).

    Cant remember what you had planned for the veneer? Natural or dyed? Keep up the awesome work man!
    Thanks Kevin! I plan on going natural on this veneer. Some part of every project I've done to this point has been dyed with Behlen Solar-Lux, and boy do I love the results.... but this time I want to see what I can do with a gentle amber from General Finishes Arm-R-Seal alone. I had considered using the water based GF "High Performance" product since I was mistakenly sent a can back during the Jedi Mind Trick subwoofer project, but I think the stark white / clear finish look might be just a bit too "cold" in comparison to the rest of the cabinet.

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  • Kevin K.
    replied
    Looking good Keith! Love the Black binding post! Sure would be nice if PE carried their post in black (hint, hint, Parts Express).

    Cant remember what you had planned for the veneer? Natural or dyed? Keep up the awesome work man!

    Leave a comment:


  • KEtheredge87
    replied
    Originally posted by tomzarbo View Post
    I love this attention to detail. Oh, and the cabinets look great!
    I missed it, what size dowels are those, 1/4"? Good work Keith.
    TomZ
    Thanks Tom Yeah, the little dowels going across the post are 1/4", I think the larger dowels that I used to hold the caps were 3/8" and I needed to sand it down a bit to clear the ID of the threads on the cap.

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  • KEtheredge87
    replied
    Originally posted by wogg View Post
    Holy attention to detail!

    I'm going to use you as an example when my wife thinks I'm being to anal retentive about a project.
    Haha... Happy to be of service

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  • tomzarbo
    replied
    I love this attention to detail. Oh, and the cabinets look great!
    I missed it, what size dowels are those, 1/4"? Good work Keith.
    TomZ

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  • wogg
    replied
    Holy attention to detail!

    I'm going to use you as an example when my wife thinks I'm being to anal retentive about a project.

    Leave a comment:


  • KEtheredge87
    replied
    Originally posted by 4thtry View Post
    Nice card trick for centering the speaker in the recess
    Thanks Bill! I don't know many magic tricks... so at least this one's useful!

    Originally posted by Wolf View Post
    Nicely done! I've thought of just spraying the satin posts with VHT tint spray to get a black-chrome look before, but probably would not have done this thorough of a job.
    Thanks Ben! I had considered having a friend sandblast the areas I wanted to paint, but decided against it. Not sure how anyone could selectively sandblast the same way I can mask off and use etching primer.

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  • Wolf
    replied
    Nicely done! I've thought of just spraying the satin posts with VHT tint spray to get a black-chrome look before, but probably would not have done this thorough of a job.
    Later,
    Wolf

    Leave a comment:


  • KEtheredge87
    replied
    Blacked Out Binding Posts - Part 3

    When your design just SCREAMS for some tricked-out black binding posts...

    3rd and Final Set of Pictures from the Paint / Protect Stage
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  • KEtheredge87
    replied
    Blacked Out Binding Posts - Part 2

    When your design just SCREAMS for some tricked-out black binding posts...

    2nd Set of Pictures from the Prep / Prime Stage
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  • KEtheredge87
    replied
    Blacked Out Binding Posts - Part 1

    When your design just SCREAMS for some tricked-out black binding posts and you don't want any gold trim poking out ruining the aesthetic, you have to take matters into your own hands. Starting with a set of Dayton Audio Satin Nickel HD Binding Posts, I used the following method to paint the exposed areas a nice satin black color. These binding posts are nickel plated (likely plated over brass), so they won't take a coat of paint fresh out of the box. We need to get aggressive and attack that nickel coating to give the paint something to key into.

    NOTE: AVOID any paint contact on the threads, or any internal surfaces where electrical contact will be made.

    Prep
    00) Remove red and black colored rubber bands from the caps. Save them for later.
    01) Use 120 grit sandpaper to rough up all the flat surfaces of the binding posts that you want to paint. I used a 120 grit flap wheel on low speed from Dremel.
    02) Use 180 grit buff to rough up all the surfaces of the binding posts you want to paint. Again... low speed Dremel tools are your friend.
    03) Blast any leftover sanding debris from the caps and posts with compressed air.
    04) Soak all components in a mineral spirits bath for 15 minutes to degrease / clean away any solvents or materials lurking in the crevices.

    Optional - use an oven to bake the parts for 15 minutes at ~150 deg F to thoroughly dry / evaporate any leftover cleaning materials

    05) Prep the posts - 1/4" dowel rod through the post, masking tape on the threads, use a bit of sticky tack to plug the hole where a banana plug gets inserted.
    06) Prep the caps - I used an oversize dowel rod and sanded it down until the cap just barely fit on top. This sufficiently protected the threads inside the cap from any paint.

    Prime
    07) Prime - Use an automotive self etch primer to attack the nickel coating and leave a good surface for paint, 3 light layers - Let dry for 24 hours
    It HAS to be self etch primer. The acid attacks the nickel coating and allows for proper adhesion of the primer and paint to follow.
    08) De-nib - Use a white synthetic finishing pad to knock down any high spots on the primer.

    Paint
    09) Paint - Use your color coat paint to spray 3 thin layers following can instructions. I used Krylon lacquer gloss black. - let dry for 24 hours.
    10) De-nib - Use a white synthetic finishing pad to knock down any high spots on the paint.

    Protect
    11) Protect - I followed up with 3 light coats of Krylon satin clear finishing spray to add a protective layer - let dry at least 24 hours (I went on vacation, so it dried for 5 days before I touched it again)
    12) De-nib - Use a white synthetic finishing pad to knock down any high spots on the protective layer.

    1st Set of Pictures from the Prep Stage
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  • 4thtry
    replied
    Nice card trick for centering the speaker in the recess

    Leave a comment:

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