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  • #16
    The only thing that I can think that those resonators would do is act like a grounding rod for stray flux. Almost like an external shorting ring. Someone smarter than me please explain.
    I'll try to measure this with DATS to confirm my suspicion.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by clb5335 View Post
      Well, I'm pleased to hear it's not a specifically bad idea. Someone mentioned problems with a first order crossover. Is that due to concern about not rolling off quickly enough to be effective, or is there something else to be concerned about?
      There is nothing specifically wrong with first order crossovers, I do think that they work best with wide range drivers. Your chosen mid/tweeter seems fine, try to select a woofer with a smooth rolloff and you will improve your chances for good results.

      As Chris had mentioned, one possible issue is the full range driver's impedance peak at Fs. A low frequency first order filter may not have enough impedance to suppress the resonant peak very effectively. This will affect power handling and can largely be resolved by choosing an appropriate crossover point.

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      • #18
        Originally posted by ernperkins View Post
        Here's a guy who did a full blown W5 clone: https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/mult...-w5-clone.html. I could never understand their voodoo"‘electromechanical parallel resonators". Here's a description:

        Each ‘resonator’ is in point of fact a small length (92mm) of stiff wire (surrounded by a piece of plastic tubing) one end of which is soldered to the negative speaker terminal and the other end of which is free to vibrate, should some mechanical stimulus be applied to it. Think of the resonator as being a bit like a tuning fork, except that when I ‘twanged’ it with my finger, the sound was more like a ‘sprong’ than a pure tone.
        Only top-dollar speakers have those!

        Francis

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        • #19
          Originally posted by ernperkins View Post
          Here's a guy who did a full blown W5 clone: https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/mult...-w5-clone.html. I could never understand their voodoo"‘electromechanical parallel resonators". Here's a description:

          Each ‘resonator’ is in point of fact a small length (92mm) of stiff wire (surrounded by a piece of plastic tubing) one end of which is soldered to the negative speaker terminal and the other end of which is free to vibrate, should some mechanical stimulus be applied to it. Think of the resonator as being a bit like a tuning fork, except that when I ‘twanged’ it with my finger, the sound was more like a ‘sprong’ than a pure tone.
          Sounds like resonant pebbles and speaker wire stands to me. I'm of the mind that I dont want anything going "sprong" or extra resonating inside my speaker. But whatever works for him...

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          • #20
            The Boenickes sure are interesting looking inside.

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            • #21
              Here is a recent example with 8in woofer and 3in driver: http://ampslab.com/blog/2018/05/26/m...-fountek-fe85/ Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

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              • #22
                Originally posted by ross.stilling View Post
                Here is a recent example with 8in woofer and 3in driver: http://ampslab.com/blog/2018/05/26/m...-fountek-fe85/ Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
                With a crossover at 1.2kHz, that's really more of a conventional 2-Way. Nothing wrong with that, looks like he did a good job.
                Francis

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                • #23
                  I did a design a couple years ago with a ND105-4 in a ported box for the bass and a TC9FD18 open baffle. Crossover was around 1000 Hz. Super great imaging and big bang for the buck!

                  Click image for larger version

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                  Craig

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                  • #24
                    How about SL's LX Mini? A bit more hardware required, but I have heard it several times and it is superb.

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                    • #25
                      I like the example of the 8" and 3" from ampslab, that's very close to what I had in mind. the crossover did end up being higher than expected, but i think it fits my original idea. I have done some modeling, and due to the 3" resonance at 100hz and the 8" resonance at 1500hz, it is more difficult than I expected to get a first order crossover to work well. here is a model of the dayton DC200 and RS100 from Boxsim. I chose to work with dayton because the ZMA and FRD files are easy to get.
                      Attached Files

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                      • #26
                        REALISTIC T_110 Speakers.
                        I need some answers to this Please , I have a pare of these and the 10 in radiator is toast. I would like to add new 10in woofer ,replace the 8in midrange and tweeter add a 3 way crossover. My maine ????? Is , should I port or not, do I baffle the mid? What is the best thing to do?

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                        • #27
                          ***
                          "REALISTIC T_110 Speakers.
                          I need some answers to this Please , I have a pare of these and the 10 in radiator is toast. I would like to add new 10in woofer ,replace the 8in midrange and tweeter add a 3 way crossover. My maine ????? Is , should I port or not, do I baffle the mid? What is the best thing to do?"

                          (can't tell if you know this or not, steve1)
                          These are not 3-ways. The PR is not a woofer (it basically IS a port, but uses a cone instead).
                          The 8" is not a mid. It's the woofer.

                          (today - finally) There are several 10" PRs you could replace yours with.
                          You COULD replace the (8") woofer, but . . . is there anything wrong with it (OR the tweeter)?

                          Your maine ?s end up (therefore) being irrelevant. You don't port a PR design (although you COULD close up the PR hole and swap a port in instead). The tweeter doesn't need baffling from the 8" ('cause almost all tweeters are closed back - even most of the old cone types). The 8" CAN'T be baffled from the PR (or port), 'cause it has to interact that way to make bass. An new XO won't be required unless you replace either (or both) active drivers. Adding any kind of off-the-shelf (pre-made) XO is almost certain disaster.

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                          • #28
                            Steve, Please create a new thread for your question. It is completely unrelated to the subject of this thread.

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                            • #29
                              SOooooo. I am new for 1 and don't know how to create a new thread. I know what I have I simply want to add a 10 in woofer to replace the radiator and get a 3 way crossover. I just need to know if I needed to port after doing so? Thank for your time. I will work on figuring this out.

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                              • #30
                                [QUOTE=steve1tanetwo;n1407046]SOooooo. I am new for 1 and don't know how to create a new thread.

                                Go to the screen that opens when you click on the forum, at the top is a button for a new topic.

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