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Midwest Audio Fest

It’s that time audio enthusiasts!

Registration for the 2019 Speaker Design Competition is now open! Visit midwestaudiofest.com for details and to list your speaker project.
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We hope to see you this summer!

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Midwest Audio Fest

It’s that time audio enthusiasts! Registration for the 2019 Speaker Design Competition is now open! Visit midwestaudiofest.com for details and to list your speaker project. We are excited to see all returning participants, and look forward to meeting some new designers this year, as well! Be sure your plans include a visit to the Parts Express Tent Sale for the lowest prices of the year, and the Audio Swap Meet where you can buy and trade with other audio fans. We hope to see you this summer! Vivian and Jill
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Polk PSW10 Any good replacement driver?

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  • Polk PSW10 Any good replacement driver?

    Ok so as the title says I'm looking for an adequate replacement driver for this box. I literally hate the driver they used! It bottoms out and makes terrible noises! The box has roughly 1.8 cu ft. internal volume and the flared port measures 3" x 9.75". I have no idea what the F3 or tuning frequency is used because I have no way to measure this driver atm. So I'm hoping someone here who is more knowledgeable can recommend a much better replacement driver.
    Break in period = The time it takes for the new speakers to break in. And the time it takes for you ears to get adjusted to the new speakers.

  • #2
    You may not be able to find out the driver specs without measuring gear but you can reverse engineer the cab with speaker modeling software, like WinISD 0.7, and then plug in the specs from as many drivers as you wish to see what will work best in it. However, no matter what driver you may use the amp will still be only 50 watts, and considering the price probably not a very good one. This is, I'm afraid, a sow's ear that cannot be transformed into a silk purse. I wouldn't toss good money after bad by replacing the driver.
    www.billfitzmaurice.com
    www.billfitzmaurice.info/forum

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    • #3
      Well after a bit of research and discovering that the internal volume is around 1.1 cu ft. I found a suitable replacement driver https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...4-ohm--295-202. This should due nicely but I may also replace the amp and modify the enclosure to do so.
      Break in period = The time it takes for the new speakers to break in. And the time it takes for you ears to get adjusted to the new speakers.

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      • #4
        Since you're fixing it, while you're in there you might also cross-brace the enclosure a bit. One place manufacturers skimp on low-price subs is a sturdy enclosure.
        Francis

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        • #5
          Originally posted by fpitas View Post
          Since you're fixing it, while you're in there you might also cross-brace the enclosure a bit. One place manufacturer's skimp on low-price subs is a sturdy enclosure.
          And yeah I wish I would've done more research before buying this less than a month ago because this is not the quality of bass that I need especially when pairing with my Fluance Signature series bookshelf speakers which sound absolutely amazing I might add.
          Break in period = The time it takes for the new speakers to break in. And the time it takes for you ears to get adjusted to the new speakers.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Weber View Post

            And yeah I wish I would've done more research before buying this less than a month ago because this is not the quality of bass that I need especially when pairing with my Fluance Signature series bookshelf speakers which sound absolutely amazing I might add.
            You'll be amazed what a sturdy, non-resonant box will do for bass. And bracing is almost free
            Francis

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            • #7
              IF your box was 1.8cf (internal), then a 3"id x 10" port tunes it to 30Hz, and your 10" DCS driver would play to 30Hz (roughly).
              IF your box is 1.1 cf, then a 3" x 10" port tube tunes it to the upper 30s, and it should still reach below 40Hz. (Not bad for music.)
              I wouldn't advise against it.

              The 50w amp IS underpowered (do you know if it has any "boost" - it probably does not, for ported boxes they typically don't).
              If your amp is clipping, that COULD sound like a driver issue.
              If your box is sturdy (many are not), then a 100w or 200w amp would be in order (w/OUT boost).

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Weber View Post

                And yeah I wish I would've done more research before buying this less than a month ago because this is not the quality of bass that I need especially when pairing with my Fluance Signature series bookshelf speakers which sound absolutely amazing I might add.
                You'd be shocked how bad even some much more expensive subs look inside.
                Francis

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Weber View Post
                  I found a suitable replacement driver dayton-audio-dcs255-4-
                  With only 50 watts pushing it I doubt it will make any difference. No offense, but to do what you intend to do with a sub you bought a few weeks ago is nuts. Sell it, take the loss, buy a sub that meets your needs.
                  www.billfitzmaurice.com
                  www.billfitzmaurice.info/forum

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                  • #10
                    Or the new one, piece by piece. New driver, new amp, then a new box.

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                    • #11
                      Using that same Dayton 10" driver is Jeff Bagby's baby boomer subwoofer. You can Google it and find the kit for $229 with everything except the cabinet. I think it is a little smaller than the Polk so you could sell the Polk and build your own cabinet or repurpose the Polk cabinet and add some wood blocks and bracing to adjust the volume as needed.

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                      • #12
                        If he uses the Polk cab he's left with a driver and an amp to get rid of. That will be a lot more difficult than selling the Polk complete.
                        www.billfitzmaurice.com
                        www.billfitzmaurice.info/forum

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by billfitzmaurice View Post
                          If he uses the Polk cab he's left with a driver and an amp to get rid of. That will be a lot more difficult than selling the Polk complete.
                          I agree completely. But it might be an option if he doesn't have the tools to build a cabinet.

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                          • #14
                            I'm guessing the real culprit here is the sub amp. Get something from PE that's at least 250 watts.

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                            • #15
                              Thanks everyone for the help. I think I will just sell it and buy/build a new sub. I would have to buy a kit that has the pieces cut already as I do not have much in the way of tools right now.

                              I'm looking at this: Dayton Audio 15" Ultimax Subwoofer and Cabinet Bundle

                              And I wouldn't need a plate amp because my receiver handles all the filtering and DSP. So I would get something like this: Behringer NX1000 Ultra Lightweight Class D 1000W Power Amplifier
                              Break in period = The time it takes for the new speakers to break in. And the time it takes for you ears to get adjusted to the new speakers.

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