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Stereo console - need full range speaker recommendation

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  • Stereo console - need full range speaker recommendation

    I am planning on building an all-in-one stereo console with a turntable, amplifier and built-in speakers. Sort of similar in looks to the attached photo. I already have the turntable, can build an amplifier plus the phono stage but I need a recommendation for set of full range drivers. I do not want to mess with tweeter/woofer configuration, crossovers, ported enclosures. It would have to be a single driver sealed 1 cubic feet per speaker enclosure (maybe a bit more if design permits). I was thinking about Visaton BG20 8" driver for which a 1.06 cubic feet enclosure is recommended. Would that be a good choice or would you recommend a different driver. The music I listen to is classic rock, rock and roll and classical. I am looking mostly for a non-fatiguing sound. Main source will of course be the turntable but I will have an aux jack and bluetooth option as well.

  • Millstonemike
    replied
    Originally posted by Billet View Post
    It might be a good idea to use an amp with a subsonic filter to prevent feedback from the turntable. This is especially true with ported or open baffle woofers, sealed boxes tend to naturally limit subsonic woofer travel. This may not be important at low volume levels, but is something to consider.
    Yes. And isn't that a standard approach with any turntable - to eliminate "rumble" from the TT itself?

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  • Billet
    replied
    It might be a good idea to use an amp with a subsonic filter to prevent feedback from the turntable. This is especially true with ported or open baffle woofers, sealed boxes tend to naturally limit subsonic woofer travel. This may not be important at low volume levels, but is something to consider.

    Leave a comment:


  • a4eaudio
    replied
    • Build the cabinet as solidly as possible - maybe doubled-up MDF + maybe the "sand" idea
    • Build the turntable portion so it is at least somewhat isolated from the rest of the cabinet - maybe a combination of speaker spikes and sorbothane sheets/pads
    • Classix II actually has good base, which in this case is a detriment - use something with less base (full range driver, MarkAudio, a proven 2-way design with less bass than Classix II)
    • Small subwoofer (Voxel?) external from the console

    Leave a comment:


  • djg
    replied
    You could easily make a subwoofer box to fit under the unit that isn't physically attached to the console, if you wanted to. Then the console could use whatever design that doesn't produce bass for the stereo pair. I have no idea what expense and complication you're envisioning.

    The Classix II is a fine design, there are a gazillion 2 way designs around, no need to restrict yourself. JMHO. Good luck.

    Leave a comment:


  • drabina
    replied
    So between the Markaudio Alpair 10P and the Classix II, which one would you recommend as a better application for the console?

    I am not going to put a sub into the base. That would most likely have a negative impact on the turntable playback. And I am not replacing turntable with a CD player. My vinyl collection is way bigger than my CD collection and I happen to be listening to LPs more often.

    Thanks for all the help and suggestions so far. I am sketching the console now (as good as I can). Next step is going to be drawing and figuring out the dimensions. Then shopping for some wood and cutting. It is going to be a long process though as my spare time to do this build is minimal.

    Leave a comment:


  • AEIOU
    replied
    Originally posted by djg View Post
    A small sub in the base is a good idea.
    Bass in the Base. But those vibrations will most certainly be picked up by the pickup. (Not a good idea to place a turntable on top of a subwoofer)

    Leave a comment:


  • AEIOU
    replied
    I also recommend the Markaudio full range drivers, but they are pricey. Not a good idea to incorporate a turntable into such a build, unless the console is made of something absolutely solid like concrete. Maybe substitute a CD player? Not a good place for a tube amp either, because of microphonics and more importantly because there is not enough air circulation for good cooling with the lid closed.
    Last edited by AEIOU; 05-04-2019, 02:31 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Millstonemike
    replied
    Originally posted by drabina View Post

    If I need to build a false back to fill the width of the console, how would that affect speaker with a rear mounted port tube? I don't think I can just extend the port to go thru the empty space behind the speaker. Wouldn't a ported design work for my application only if the port was in the front?
    As Wolf posted, you can "remove" interior volume by creating a dummy box inside. Anything can suck up interior volume - side-to-side, left-to-right, and top-to-bottom bracing will "remove" interior volume. You just need to do all the volume arithmetic and you'll be good.

    Wolf makes a good suggestion to Andy19191's point about vibrations and the turntable. Heavy material (e.g., sand) to deaden the cabinet's vibrations. Maybe a "raised floor" in each enclosure with the sand contained underneath.

    In college, we "procured" a manhole cover. Put in on cinder blocks in the dorm for the turntable. No more vibration issues after that.

    Leave a comment:


  • djg
    replied
    Hide a typical 2 way speaker sitting on some foam behind grill cloth. Front or rear port, wouldn't matter unless the port opening is just shoved right into a flat surface. Consider how much clearance the interior end of the port has and match or exceed that.

    A small sub in the base is a good idea.

    Volt-6 version 2 would fit right in there, front ported. Available elsewhere on the internet. High efficiency coax.

    You might be able to butcher Wolf's new "Zinger" 8" DVC subwoofer 2 way into it. Hope he doesn't see this.

    Frank was pretty pleased with these.

    Drive-Ins: a small, high efficiency speaker - Techtalk Speaker Building, Audio, Video Discussion Forum

    Leave a comment:


  • drabina
    replied
    Originally posted by Chris Roemer View Post
    Are you saying the "end boxes" would be 1cf EXternal (about 13x13x9.5"), or INternal (outside about 15x15x11" - using 3/4" stuff)?
    You could get the Classix II kit (w/port & front baffle) and turn it sideways. NOT "ideal", but WAAAY better sounding than a sealed FR driver would be.

    $170 a pair.
    https://www.parts-express.com/classi...only--300-7110
    If I need to build a false back to fill the width of the console, how would that affect speaker with a rear mounted port tube? I don't think I can just extend the port to go thru the empty space behind the speaker. Wouldn't a ported design work for my application only if the port was in the front?

    Leave a comment:


  • mikejennens
    replied
    Here is a pretty flexible build: https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full...f-monitor.html

    It uses a Dayton RS-225 and one of many small full range drivers. The original builder built a 24 liter sealed enclosure. I built one much larger and really like it. You could get with a 1 cubic foot enclosure and have great sound. The RS-225 is a great driver, very well regarded by many users. The Peerless TC9FD18-08, the Dayton PS-95, and the Peerless TG9FD-10-04 are all drop-in replacements for the 10F/8424. I'm using a Fostex FE83 in mine. Very straight-forward build, with no ports, yet still offers good bass.
    Mike

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  • craigk
    replied
    Originally posted by drabina View Post

    I was thinking of incorporating a sub into the stand (like the design in the photo) but I am afraid that the vibrations will transfer to the turntable and affect playback. I rather build it without a sub and add external one if really needed. But again, I am not looking for an earth shattering bass as this setup will not be listened to at high levels. Just sort of background music on low to moderate-low levels.
    A sub, even a small one like the voxel, will make a real difference in the sound of your system. It will make everything better. Sub are not for just cranking out loud, deep bass. They really contribute to the " music" experience. I would not incorporate the sub into the counsel.

    Leave a comment:


  • drabina
    replied
    Originally posted by craigk View Post
    Would a really small sub, like paul carmody's voxel, be an option ? You could go with a smaller FR driver and gain some top end. I think the mark audio drivers would be a great option for what you are trying to do. With a small sub this system could sound surprisingly good.
    I was thinking of incorporating a sub into the stand (like the design in the photo) but I am afraid that the vibrations will transfer to the turntable and affect playback. I rather build it without a sub and add external one if really needed. But again, I am not looking for an earth shattering bass as this setup will not be listened to at high levels. Just sort of background music on low to moderate-low levels.

    Leave a comment:


  • craigk
    replied
    Would a really small sub, like paul carmody's voxel, be an option ? You could go with a smaller FR driver and gain some top end. I think the mark audio drivers would be a great option for what you are trying to do. With a small sub this system could sound surprisingly good.

    Leave a comment:

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