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  • Help with the parts I choose for the build

    Hi all,
    I ordered these parts for my first speaker build. Trying to learn as much as I can. I have a few questions...

    Bluetooth amplifier https://www.parts-express.com/tps311...e-con--320-635
    x2 Tweeter https://www.parts-express.com/hivi-r...eeter--297-406
    x2 Woofer https://www.parts-express.com/tang-b...eaker--264-918
    x1 Subwoofer https://www.parts-express.com/tang-band-w6-1139sif-6-1-2-paper-cone-subwoofer-speaker--264-919
    x1 Passive radiator
    https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...iator--295-500
    x2 HPFhttps://www.parts-express.com/dayton...tave--260-1906
    x2 LPF https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...tave--260-1908

    Each fullrange/woofer will be in there own separated sealed boxes and put in a bigger sealed box together with tweeters and sub. I can see that the combined watt of Tweeter+full range is a little higher than the 50W output on the amplifier. Will this be a problem long term?
    Crossover at 4000Hz looks good? Do I need some sort of crossover for the sub? Or do I even need to use crossover for all drivers because the built in preamp already gives me frequency adjustablitily?
    How accurate do I have to be with calculating volume of a sealed enclosure?
    I'm also planning on building a 24v battery pack..What's a good capacity to run comfortably 1 whole day?

    That's a lot of questions. Thanks for being patient and I appreciate you help.


  • #2
    Well, to start, at minimum you will need an L-Pad to match the tweeter output to that of the woofer. This is in addition to the crossover - which you will need. You might be able to use the sealed response of the woofer as it's high pass to the sub ... if you are lucky. That depends on how variable the sub low pass is (not clear to me from the specs).

    You would probably also be much better off selecting a comparably priced kit of an established design. You've chosen some reasonably good drivers that, also, should work pretty well together, but getting a properly designed crossover would likely be a significant improvement. A kit would provide that.

    I'd also be concerned that the sub output won't match, even with the 100 watts.

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    • #3
      You'd get better results (w/THESE drivers) by using the 2.5kHz LowPass and 5kHz HighPass.
      Also (like Paul mentioned) the tweeter needs attenuation. A 10ohm (series) resistor between the amp and HighPass filter should balance the tweeter w/the mid-bass.
      This gives you a relatively "flat" response w/the drivers crossing near 4k. Ordinarily, "flat" isn't what you want, unless you specifically want NO "baffle-step compensation".
      That 5" in a closed 0.25cf space (the tweeters can go in these spaces just as well as in w/the sub - maybe that's even a better idea) will reach down to about 100Hz, and will be Xmax-limited to about 15w RMS (about 100dB).

      You CAN tune a 0.75cf cab using that RS PR (and one 75g disk) to reach 30Hz, but the (much cheaper) DS270 (-494) PR with 100g added mass will do the same.
      At 50w RMS (the W6's rating) you should get 100dB out of the sub.
      Hopefully you can turn the TM sections down to 1/2 or 1/4 power to simulate baffle-step comp (if you need it).

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