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  • #46
    Joe,
    they both work pretty much the same. Can't say for sure on 100% of the features, but very similar.
    Just be careful on choosing voltage on the big one, the 12v version is the same as the 5v, but comes with an additional board to mount on the back of your enclosure that includes necessary jacks and a voltage regulator.
    The small one is good because it works with 8 to 24v which is nice for little amps.
    They both play clean, no noise to speak of.
    hey, if you use one, please post up the details. I'd love it if PE carried these.
    TomZ
    *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
    *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF *Cello's Speaker Project Page

    *Building the "Micro-B 2.1 Plate Amplifier -- Part 1 * Part 2 * Part 3 * Part 4 * * Part 5 'Review' * -- Assembly Instructions PDF

    Comment


    • #47
      Very cool project(s) Tom! Love the veneer choices and the finish.

      What is the verdict on how they sound?

      Comment


      • #48
        Originally posted by anunnaki View Post
        Very cool project(s) Tom! Love the veneer choices and the finish.

        What is the verdict on how they sound?
        Anunnaki,
        I still have to solder up all the crossover bits and get the PR's installed.

        I had the same basic setup (Bantams alongside a cardboard box) powered by the same amp and it sounded pretty good and more than loud enough for a table radio, and that was with the 16v power supply, I'm using a 24v with this setup.

        I think this would even work fairly well for a small outdoor situation like a deck -- where there is household power to run it from. This will have the advantage of having the passive radiators directly opposed to cancel out vibrations, which are substantial.

        Let you know this weekend hopefully! The wife's away to a 'Ladies Retreat' at church so me and 'Benson the cat' are bachelor's this weekend.

        TomZ

        Thanks by the way.
        *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
        *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF *Cello's Speaker Project Page

        *Building the "Micro-B 2.1 Plate Amplifier -- Part 1 * Part 2 * Part 3 * Part 4 * * Part 5 'Review' * -- Assembly Instructions PDF

        Comment


        • #49
          Pretty much there...

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          It works, and the audio is pretty much dead-quiet... that's a relief. I've had issues with noise in the past, but decided to take a preemptive strike with the use of an isolated DC/DC converter to the head unit to get ahead of such problems. Sounds pretty good as well; it's got a nice little punch to it.

          I do have an issue with the switch, and/or power going to the head unit or amp. Electrons are flowing in a way I don't want, it's intermittent, but needs to be addressed before I send this 4-5 states away.
          It'll probably be next weekend before I can really go over this thing to get the bumps worked out, but so far, I'm encouraged.

          TomZ
          *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
          *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF *Cello's Speaker Project Page

          *Building the "Micro-B 2.1 Plate Amplifier -- Part 1 * Part 2 * Part 3 * Part 4 * * Part 5 'Review' * -- Assembly Instructions PDF

          Comment


          • #50
            I finished this up yesterday.

            After beating on it for several hours and doing some temperature testing and subsequent modifications, everything now seems to be working as intended. I was having some issues with the switch not working correctly, but I suspect the click-in connector wasn't making full connection somehow.

            I'll elaborate on that a bit: I had originally intended to wire this up so that the switch on the top turned everything on and off... so when you press in and turn on the switch the light would turn on, and the amp and video player would both turn on. That would have been okay, but when the video player has it's power cut off, the volume level (for some stupid reason #%@!*%) reverts to 28 (out of 30) and each time you turn the unit on, you'd be basically at full volume... not an ideal scenario. So, I wired it so that the video player is always connected to the 24v input so it wouldn't revert to max volume, and I only switched the amplifier with the switch. That way, you have time to double-check the volume level before turning on the amp. In a perfect world, the switch would 'switch' both units on and off, but these are the bits I have to work with, and the video player really is a cool little device, so I'm dealing with it.

            Anyway, what I was finding was that every once in awhile when I would switch the switch off (which should kill the light and turn off the amp) it would actually stay lit and the amp would stay powered on. My mind raced to previous Amp/preamp projects where 12v was getting to the faceplate from the amp through the L/R/Ground input line even when the 12v positive power line was not connected -- believe it or not. Electrons are not my friends I guess. But, after taking the guts out of the radio to drill a hole for the rear vent and reinstalling all the connectors, I'm not able to repeat the problem, so I think a poor connection may have been the issue. I have several of these switches and I tried another one but was not able to repeat the issue with either switch.

            This 'large video player' radio has some slightly different characteristics than the small video player unit. The small player exhibits a positive DC offset when the video player is turned on, the big player does not do that. Since I'm trying to finish this large video player unit first for my friend's mom, I'm trying to get this one buttoned down, tested for a bit, and on down the road... then I'll address the issues with the two small video player units in a few weeks.

            Back to temperature testing... After running the unit for several hours at almost full volume with some bassy songs, I noticed the top of the enclosure in the middle section getting warmer than the sides. I have the amp mounted with brass standoffs to the inside top of the enclosure to keep things tidy... but that makes a little pocked up there where heat can build up and not really escape. The bottom of the center electronics area is open for air to come in, but I hadn't allowed a way for it to escape. So I bought a bag of these "Soffit Vents" from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

            They need a 1 3/8" hole with the corner sanded round a bit to sit flush, but they look really cool installed and the lip covers up where I drilled for a clean look. I like the fact that you can see the shiny heat sink on the amp through the vent.

            It didn't really lower the temp on the heatsink that I can tell, but over time having a way for heat to evacuate will just be better. I could feel some 'warmth' emanating from the vent after a good half-hour of pushing it pretty hard.

            I tried to post some pics of the soffit vent installed, but the forum software says my pics are corrupted or something, I'll get them put up when PE gets that fixed up.

            I'm wondering if anyone would be interested in repeating this project or not. I have box dimensions jotted down as I built these, and could publish the cabinet dimensions and such if there was any interest.

            I realize that this project is kind of pricy for the size of it. PE has some blast boxes that probably have a bit more 'boom' for about the same or even less money, but this setup sounds really nice, and is very compact. I had it running some 'bass-happy' Waymond Tisdale tracks on it as I went to get the mail yesterday... I could hear music from the outside fairly loudly... sounded like my big stereo minus the low bass. And the kid in me is just amazed that you can have a boom box radio with a video player on it and watch music videos in addition to just listening to the music. These players are under $30 shipped and are really worth every penny. I found myself watching a 'Fourplay' concert with Bob James on the piano for an hour on this little thing and thinking 'this is so cool' the entire time.

            Anyway, I guess that's if for now on this project. I'll post pics of the other two 'small video player units' as I finish them up and report any 'issues' with their completion as well.

            I apologize for the long-windedness of this post, but I thought a concise 'recap' may help since this has been going on for a little while.

            Happy building everyone,
            TomZ
            *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
            *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF *Cello's Speaker Project Page

            *Building the "Micro-B 2.1 Plate Amplifier -- Part 1 * Part 2 * Part 3 * Part 4 * * Part 5 'Review' * -- Assembly Instructions PDF

            Comment


            • #51
              Tom, Very attractive piece! You did a wonderful job. Any one would be proud to have this.

              Comment


              • #52
                What? A rectangular box? Kidding, the build is gorgeous! And it probably plays louder and cleaner than anything available

                Comment


                • #53
                  Originally posted by howard View Post
                  Tom, Very attractive piece! You did a wonderful job. Any one would be proud to have this.
                  Thanks Howard, I try real hard. There are boo-boo's but it's mostly nice.

                  A few more pics now that they are working again.

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                  Now to finish the other two. I also need to take some measurements of this one to see if any minor crossover adjustments are needed before I send it away.

                  TomZ
                  *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
                  *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF *Cello's Speaker Project Page

                  *Building the "Micro-B 2.1 Plate Amplifier -- Part 1 * Part 2 * Part 3 * Part 4 * * Part 5 'Review' * -- Assembly Instructions PDF

                  Comment


                  • #54
                    Originally posted by randyohoh View Post
                    What? A rectangular box? Kidding, the build is gorgeous! And it probably plays louder and cleaner than anything available
                    Thanks man. I know, no curves right? But I wanted to make this easily buildable for anyone who wanted to give it a try.
                    It really is easy to put together. At least I did a roundover on the sides!

                    I'm considering bringing it to MWAF to enter in the open unlimited as funny as that sounds. I know it'll be outgunned by literally everything else in that category, but it'd be nice to give it a shot.

                    TomZ

                    *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
                    *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF *Cello's Speaker Project Page

                    *Building the "Micro-B 2.1 Plate Amplifier -- Part 1 * Part 2 * Part 3 * Part 4 * * Part 5 'Review' * -- Assembly Instructions PDF

                    Comment


                    • #55
                      Here are the dimensions for the Bantam Table Radio in case anyone wants to have a go.

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                      Bantam Table Radio Dimensions.pdf
                      The crossover is the same as the Bantam's speaker system at this point.
                      I did take some measurements but given the random placement likely with a table radio, I saw no need to change anything.
                      Here is a link to the crossover:
                      http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...94#post1304994

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                      Also, I've included a PDF as that may print out better for more clarity on the finer print.

                      There should be plenty of room for any faceplate you choose to use with this so I didn't include any details on that or the terminal cup/antenna setup as that will be based on your choice.
                      PE has a faceplate preamp that would easily fit with room to spare.
                      TomZ
                      Attached Files
                      Last edited by tomzarbo; 11-17-2019, 08:52 AM.
                      *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
                      *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF *Cello's Speaker Project Page

                      *Building the "Micro-B 2.1 Plate Amplifier -- Part 1 * Part 2 * Part 3 * Part 4 * * Part 5 'Review' * -- Assembly Instructions PDF

                      Comment


                      • #56
                        So I finally finished up the other "other" Bantam Table Radio today.

                        I had some issues with the smaller faceplate unit regarding noise. Man, these little preamp things can be fussy.

                        I had originally built three of these radios, plan was that one would have the larger faceplate and the other two with the smaller size.

                        Well, out of three smaller sized faceplates, only one of them could be used, the other two had noise issues that just couldn't seem to be resolved. I used all the tricks that you guys have taught me over the past few years and nothing worked.

                        I ended up re-ordering another larger faceplate unit and cutting out a larger opening in the remaining radio and after some fiddling, all is well in Zarboland.

                        Here's a pic in action in the corner of our family room:

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                        It's funny, but the bass is so much stronger here than on the countertop in the kitchen., I swear I'm listening to our full size stereo if I'm in another room and can't notice the lack of stereo separation.
                        I'm getting peaks of around 92-93 dB at 10 feet or so and strong output in the 50-60 Hz range, even plenty of push in the 40 Hz range in the corner on the spectrum analyzer.

                        This large faceplate unit has a plastic panel as opposed to the other one with a metal panel. I think I like the metal one better, but this one seems fine too. It's just shiny and I tend to like the more matte finishes on stuff like this. I was wondering why this one was $3 less than the other ones, now I know!

                        Anyway, it's nice to have another project wrapped up and in the "done" column.

                        This really is a kick-butt little project, sounds good and loud like a real stereo system. Technology is great.

                        TomZ
                        *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
                        *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF *Cello's Speaker Project Page

                        *Building the "Micro-B 2.1 Plate Amplifier -- Part 1 * Part 2 * Part 3 * Part 4 * * Part 5 'Review' * -- Assembly Instructions PDF

                        Comment

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