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W5 Fullrange Boombox

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  • W5 Fullrange Boombox

    I have been brainstorming and simulating for a little while for a new portable boombox that I could primarily show off at my cubicle - with the freedom to take anywhere. Being the cheapskate that I am, I thought to utilize some things that I already have. That led me to a pair of w5-1611sa's that I had laying around. I used these in another build a couple years back in a large soundbar. I really liked its fullrange capabilities and the phase plug helps a bit in off axis territory. Luckily I already had another pair gathering dust, as well as some of the KAB-230 boards. The only thing I really needed was the battery board, batteries, and the face plate for the inputs and controls.

    Trying to keep size in the portable area and not loose too much low end, Ive opted for an overall dimension of 16" X 11" X 7.5" which will leave each driver about 5L after displacement. If my sims are correct, I will have a 2" X 4.75" port tuned to 82Hz resulting in an F3 of 85Hz and a 1.1dB bump around 155Hz. Ports will be front firing under the drivers.

    The enclosure will be built using butt joints and dowels from 1x6 stock (.75" actual) for the most part, aside from the front and rear panels. Those will be out of some true 1" walnut that I have been looking to build something out of. As of now, the plan is to laquer the pine white. It should give a nice contrast to the walnut. Havent settled on the finish for the walnut. If anyone has any recommendations, Im all ears. Im leaning on placing the amp face plate on the rear, but it may wind up on one of the sides.

    The build may be a tad slow due to life, but this should be a fairly easy and straightforward build.

  • #2
    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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    • #3
      Found some poplar that I ripped down. Its been too hot so i went the quick and easy way and glued and nailed it together. Should still be plenty strong. Last pic is of the walnut I plan to use wiped down with mineral spirits Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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      • #4
        Its starting to take some shape. Got the baffle and rear panel cut. I marked the locations for the drivers and vents on the baffle but was having a hard time with the hole saw. That will have to wait for tomorrow. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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        • #5
          are there any issues that i may have with placing the port on the baffle? would it help or hurt any if the port in on the bottom, sides or rear?

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          • #6
            Originally posted by ameuba10 View Post
            are there any issues that i may have with placing the port on the baffle? would it help or hurt any if the port in on the bottom, sides or rear?
            No problem on the baffle.

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            • #7
              Sadly I ended up screwing up one of the walnut boards so, the rear is now just mdf. On a more positive note, I was able to finally complete everything and Im loving how it came out. It could stand to have a tweeter for more off axis listening, but thats being nit picky I think. Its also a tad shouty in the midrange, but thats also being nit picky. I find it very enjoyable and so does those that have heard it. All in all, another one for the win column!

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              • #8
                Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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                • #9
                  Looks great. Don't sweat the back. I presume the KAB's output is directly connected to the drivers? If so, you may add a BSC circuit between. That could help with the bass.

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                  • #10
                    I thought about a BSC circuit but wasnt sure on how to account for a shared baffle. would you be able to help with that?

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                    • #11
                      Also, not sure if anyone else has ran across this yet or not but i noticed once everything was wired up and I plugged in the power cord to the kab face plate, it pushed the center pin of the power jack out. The jack looks like a two part housing that doesnt fit well. It had to be taken apart and super glued together. Works fine now, but the plug doesnt properly set all the way in the jack. Its still tight and secure though. I also noticed several of what was mounted on the face plate was loose and needed tightening. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by ameuba10 View Post
                        I thought about a BSC circuit but wasnt sure on how to account for a shared baffle. would you be able to help with that?
                        I'd have to model your design. Other's here can reel one off from memory. If you don't get a response, start a new thread asking for BSC help.

                        As for the DC plug, there are a myriad of sizes 5.5x2.1 mm, 5.5x2.5 mm and on and on. Those dimensions are for the jacks inner pin diameter and it's inner sleeve diameter. And then they come in various lengths. It's not uncommon to have a plug that's too long for the jack even though the diameters are a match. If you try pushing 5.5x2.1 plug into a 5.5x2.5mm jack, the plugs inside diameter is too small for the jack's inner pin. Can't recall if it's possible to actually get it to mate, perhaps given part tolerances.
                        Last edited by Millstonemike; 11-11-2019, 07:56 PM.

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                        • #13
                          That came out really nice looking. Is that one of the handles that PE sells?
                          Beautiful outcome, the hardwood front is rich looking, and the handle goes with it really well.

                          TomZ
                          *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
                          *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF *Cello's Speaker Project Page

                          *Building the "Micro-B 2.1 Plate Amplifier -- Part 1 * Part 2 * Part 3 * Part 4 * * Part 5 'Review' * -- Assembly Instructions PDF

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                          • #14
                            Walnut looks great! Model the driver as it sits on the whole baffle and use that to sim for BSC. If u have extra parts lying around you could "earball" it with various resistors and inductors, say a 1mh inductor and a 4ohm resistor across it.

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                            • #15
                              To get full BSC (which you might not need, or like) each woofer wants an in-line filter consisting of a 3.0mH coil paralleled w/a 12ohm resistor.

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