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Duratex finishing... ehem... without Duratex

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  • Duratex finishing... ehem... without Duratex

    Hi,

    I live in Chile, and her we don't have Duratex. No product close to that.

    I generally veneer my speakers, but it's a slow process, and sometimes I would like to finish my speakers in a quick, defect masking and resistant manner... I would really like to have some Duratex here.

    Importing it is impossible because of the costs and because it's a liquid...

    So, anyways... is there any "home made" or DIY type of Duratex? I once mixed black acrylic paint with standard white glue and got a good finishing, but it's not as resistant nor thick as Duratex. I also looked for truck bed liners paint, but they are quite expensive for paint a 15" subwoofer! It's cheaper to veneer it...

    Looking forward to your suggestions!


  • #2
    I recently used Sherwin Williams exterior urethane paint with that slip resistant powder texture additive with good results. I used an entire bottle of anti slip texture to a quart of paint. I was crunched for time finishing a blast box build before I went in vacation. I can get some close up pics later if needed.

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    • #3
      Textured deck paints might work and appear to be about half in cost over Duratex.

      https://www.homedepot.com/p/BEHR-Pre...0501/308486690

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      • #4
        The textured decking products are a good idea. I know many have also finished with truck bed liner, it is usually smelly stuff but a lot more durable than Duratex which is textured but not actually very tough.
        "I just use off the shelf textbook filters designed for a resistor of 8 ohms with
        exactly a Fc 3K for both drivers, anybody can do it." -Xmax

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        • #5
          Thanks for your replies.

          I will look for "textured deck" paint here... what I did found is water based acrylic paint with quartz beds (2mm)

          Regarding the urethane for exterior from SW, instead of "slip resistant powder", may I add something like cement? to make a harder surface.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by mga2009 View Post
            Thanks for your replies.

            I will look for "textured deck" paint here... what I did found is water based acrylic paint with quartz beds (2mm)

            Regarding the urethane for exterior from SW, instead of "slip resistant powder", may I add something like cement? to make a harder surface.
            I don't think acrylic paint is very resilient (I could very well be wrong). I think enamel / oil based paint is stronger.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by mga2009 View Post
              Thanks for your replies.

              I will look for "textured deck" paint here... what I did found is water based acrylic paint with quartz beds (2mm)

              Regarding the urethane for exterior from SW, instead of "slip resistant powder", may I add something like cement? to make a harder surface.
              Not sure about cement. A store for that sells paint may also sell the specific additive. If I was to add something I would look at something like clean sand, but not the fine type. Maybe pool filter sand?

              Ive done textured finishes before with spray on bed liner. I’m sure the roll on would be better. You can get that around here as easy as Walmart. Just don’t mistakenly use undercoating. That stuff is oily and some never dries.

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              • #8
                The slip resistant additives are aluminum oxide. And when you add this to paint, you get a finish that feels like sandpaper. I don't think that is a desirable finish. Get the special roller and a thick deck paint to get the texture. Keep in mind there is a wide variety of deck coatings available, some are very smooth, others are quite lumpy, so you want to see a sample before you purchase. I used the Sherwin Williams Superdeck by Duckback product which will not give you what you want, the painted finish is smooth with this product. On the steps I used the additive and its like sandpaper. Concrete has no use here. I did have a contractor paint a concrete wall once with latex paint (a good latex paint is 100% acrylic) to which he had added sand, which did provide some texture. But I don't think latex is a good paint finish for speakers, you can scratch it with your nail. An enamel is the better choice if you are going to use paint.

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                • #9
                  The obligatory suggestion of using carpet. I personally don't like it most of the time, but it shore hides them defects!

                  Also consider using a baltic birch plywood rather than pine. Birch can be more than twice as hard as pine, so it'll possibly be more resistant to light blunt force trauma. It's a bit more pricey, if even available where you are.

                  Another option is just fill the defects with autobody filler or epoxy and just plan on retouching everything periodically with inexpensive paint. You would likely have to do this with Duratex as well, theoretically a lot less frequently, but still sometimes.

                  Also investigate porch paint, although that might be the same stuff as deck paint that's already been suggested?

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                  • #10
                    These are the products that I used. Here’s better shot of the texture. It’s more of a rubbery felling not nearly as abrasive as sandpaper

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                    • #11
                      Product data sheet says the beads are a polymer. This looks like a great solution, nice being able to pick a color.

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                      • #12
                        Has anyone ever tried wrinkle paint? I've seen it used on car shows where they paint valve covers. It looks like it has more texture than truck bed liner. I may give it a shot on my next build.

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