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2019 Swope HT Drivers and Crossovers?

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  • 2019 Swope HT Drivers and Crossovers?

    Starting to plan a new build of Swope HT 5.1 speakers in July of 2019, and naturally the original BOM drivers are gone. Are the M5N and M6N drivers drop-in replacements? Also, is there a definitive current schematic for the tower and center crossovers? I've read as many threads from 2010 forward as possible, but I haven't found a source for the one true answer.

    FYI, these are for AV and some music. I will start with a center and a pair of LR towers, then add surrounds and sub(s) later.

    Thanks in advance for any input and/or redirection!

  • #2
    http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...5n-differences

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    • #3
      samwisekoi , I built a set of Swope Towers for L&R and a Swope Center channel as my first speakers four years ago. Now I'm planning to build the rear surround TMs to finish the set. I expect using the M5N driver will be fine, but I can tweak the XO as needed to ensure a similar voicing and performance. Not sure when I'll get started on that though.
      Voxel Down Firing with Dayton SA70
      Translam Subwoofers - The Jedi Mind Tricks
      The Super Bees - Garage 2 way
      SevenSixTwo - InDIYana 2018 Coax
      The Defiants - InDIYana 2019 "Bare Minimum" Build

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      • #4
        Paul answered this on reddit - no crossover change necessary.

        Also looking forward to your build! I happen to be doing a set of swope towers at the moment myself.

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        • #5
          I often wonder why Hi-Vi dropped the cast frame version of these drivers M5a, M6a, M8a. It is great that they are basically interchangeable though.

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          • #6
            Thanks, all. I looked at the Swan website and specs, and the frequency graphs look very similar. The T-S parameters are slightly different, but seem to be close enough. Mounting is different by enough that they wouldn't be drop-in replacements. I think at this point I will build the center and give it a listen. If that is good, then I'll likely pick up the drivers for two towers and two surrounds just to be sure I have them in case of another change in availability. Then I'll build the speakers two at a time and document them here for the next person who wants to build a 2010-2012 design that still seems quite relevant in 2019.

            I will also document/link the most recent design docs I can find.

            Thanks again!

            - samwisekoi
            Last edited by samwisekoi; 07-18-2019, 02:41 PM. Reason: Typo

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            • #7
              Placed my order with Parts Express. Prices for crossover parts have gone up, but the MxN speakers cost less than the MxA speakers did, so the total was the same as in 2010. $164.72 including sales tax and free shipping. I'll stop at Home Depot and grab a 2x4' piece of MDF and that will be the material I need.

              I won't cut wood until the drivers arrive, since the mounting dimensions have changed, and I want to be certain they will fit on a 9.00" baffle.

              Pics when it happens.

              <edit> Here are the design docs I am using. </edit>

              <edit2> And here are the TMWW tower docs. </edit2>
              Last edited by samwisekoi; 07-29-2019, 01:17 PM. Reason: TMWW Tower docs added.

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              • #8
                Couldn't wait...

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                • #9
                  Building the same project to see if I like the N version of the HiVi's. Going to start with the center and go from there. Drivers and xo's should be here today but probably won't be able to get in the shop till this weekend. Look forward to your impressions.

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                  • #10
                    I have built several Paul C. designs, they all sound nice. I'm sure you will be happy with your project.

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                    • #11
                      Paul C. said to measure before cutting the baffle. And the MxN versions of the drivers have new dimensions, so I waited until the physical drivers came in so I could measure them in Imperial units. This image shows the actual measurements I took with a micrometer. They are in fractional inches to make it easier to figure out which circle jig settings to use.

                      HOWEVER, these drivers are all actually metric, so almost none of the dimensions are exact factional inches, and most are not in even sixteenths, so the jig will be a PITA to use.

                      My plan is to cut the flange perimeter using the next smaller setting on the Jasper circle jig, test fitting, and then stepping up to the next setting if needed. Then I will re-publish this drawing showing the dimensions I actually ended up cutting in even sixteenths using the Jasper jig.

                      Hopefully this will help others.

                      OBTW, I have started to call these "Swope HTN" speakers to indicate the driver change. (I will quickly revert if Mr. Carmody asks me to do so.)

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by samwisekoi View Post
                        My plan is to cut the flange perimeter using the next smaller setting on the Jasper circle jig, test fitting, and then stepping up to the next setting if needed. Then I will re-publish this drawing showing the dimensions I actually ended up cutting in even sixteenths using the Jasper jig.
                        The Jasper jig 1/16" (~1.59 mm) increment limit can be a pain sometimes. To reduce that to 1/32" I bought a 9/32" router bit. I first under size the cut to the nearest 1/16" and use the regular 1/4" bit. If that is too small I then switch to the 9/32" bit using the same Jasper jig setting. If that's still too small I switch back to the 1/4" bit and use the next 1/16" increment on the Jasper jig.

                        "Everything is nothing without a high sound quality." (Sure Electronics)

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by ernperkins View Post

                          The Jasper jig 1/16" (~1.59 mm) increment limit can be a pain sometimes. To reduce that to 1/32" I bought a 9/32" router bit. I first under size the cut to the nearest 1/16" and use the regular 1/4" bit. If that is too small I then switch to the 9/32" bit using the same Jasper jig setting. If that's still too small I switch back to the 1/4" bit and use the next 1/16" increment on the Jasper jig.
                          Nice tip! I had never noticed there was 9/32" bit available but just added one to my cart.

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                          • #14
                            Thanks for the tip! Nothing available locally, but Amazon has one that can be here tomorrow.

                            I'll still see what sixteenths look like, but I will provide both sets of measurements.

                            Thanks again!

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                            • #15
                              Update: A 9/32 bit works exactly as ernperkins said. However, the bit available overnight from Amazon wasn't great. I recommend the 9/32 bit only be used for the outer-most cut.

                              Anyhow, I shall be updating the baffle dimensions showing the Jasper settings and bit size to use.

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